Majestic and Mystic Sikkim

The plan was to cover North and East of Sikkim. We had planned to reach Kolkata by flight and reach New Jalpaiguri by train.

Trip members: Sathish Raja, Karthik, Sanjeev

Trip date: 14 - 22 May 2016

Plan:

Chennai - Kolkata - New Jalpaiguri - Gangtok - La Chen - Gurudongmar Lake - La Chung - Yumthang - Gangtok - Tsongmo Lake - Nathula Pass - Gangok - New Jalpaiguri - Kolkata - Chennai

We had taken package with Kelly Holidays, after lots of analysis across 6 vendors for same itinerary.

Day-1

We reached Kolkata by 6 PM through Spice-jet flight and started towards New Jalpaiguri by Pahariya Express around 10 PM. We had dinner at Jan Bhojan within Howrah railway station. The place holds AC restaurant on first floor and we spent close to 2 hours there for dinner and lassi; a perfect place to kill time. The food was also quite food though it might take some extra minutes to serve.

Day-2

As we woke up, we got to know that the train is close to 3 hours running late. We had poori sabji at Malda Town junction. The route was quite scenic and the weather was kind too. At-last after 4 hours delay, we reached New Jalpaiguri by 1 PM. Good that we had taken some food at Malda, if not, we would have starved. Kelly holidays picked us up at the railway station. We had excellent lunch at Santa Banta Dhaba. The food was very good and so was the service. We also purchased some snacks at Ladoo Gopal. Both of these are located in the same building - around 8 kms from railway station. This is one of the very few decent food joints in the locality.

Gangtok is around 120 kms from New Jalpaiguri. 60-65% of the journey is in West Bengal and then Sikkim. The roads initially go in thick forests of Mahanada and then the ghats section starts. Once the ghats begin, all you can see is the mighty Teesta river on one side all through the journey almost until you reach Gangtok. The Teesta river is humongous and feels like you want to take photos everywhere - deep valleys and the rapid running river; at times it is quiet and in some places it is ferocious taking great turns in the valley - no words can explain the sight of Teesta. White water rafting is available in the place called Melli. We decided to visit this while returning.

As we entered Gangtok, it was totally dark and drizzling. We checked into Hotel Royal residency around 6:45 PM. The hotel is located on top of M.G.Road - the most happening place of Gangtok. The rooms were clean and compact. The restaurant is available in 2nd floor and offers great view of the valley. We refreshed and started to walk amidst rain in the M.G.Road; slowly the rain gave way for dense fog and the weather turned awesome. We walked through M.G.Road tasted yummy momos, there are lots of vegetarian outlets here. We had momos at #1 rated Roll House. They have huge variety of momos and rolls. We spent close to 2 hours in M.G.Road and the back to restaurant for a yummy dinner.

Day-3

The day started with rain. We got to know that there is a landslide enroute and transportation is stopped for the day for North Sikkim. After having breakfast at hotel, we went for local sightseeing of Gangtok. The first place to visit was Ganesk Tok. Ganesh Tok is a small Ganesh temple. The temple has a souvenir shop as well and most importantly gives a great view point for Gangtok. Ensure you visit this place; also, there are local dresses available for rentals - Rs.50 for you to wear and visit the temple.

View from Ganesh Tok - Gangtok 

The Himalayan zoo is just opposite to the Ganesh Tok temple. This zoo hosts Himalayan species like Clouded leopard, Snow leopard, red Panda, blue sheep and Yak. Entrance ticket is Rs.25 for adults and Rs.100 for vehicle. One needs vehicle to roam around for first few points and then by foot. It takes around 1 hour to see the small, beautiful and special zoo.

We, then, visited Plant Conservatory - a botanical garden. They charge Rs.10 for entrance - the place is well maintained and clean; however, no much flowers when we went. The place is nice for some good photographs. It takes 30-40 minutes to visit this place. There are lots of eateries outside this place - momos, aloo chur, juices, soups, pani poori, fresh cut fruits and many more. Make sure you use this place for food to continue the rest of the day trip.

Next stop was the waterfalls - Bakthang waterfalls; This is a good photo view point - a water falls that is LIVE and rocky. The falls is multi-stepped and offers nice photo opportunities. There is also rope sliding here for Rs.100 and a good cafe - Cafe Lhasa. We did rope sliding and it was a short nice experience. One can spend 30-45 minutes here.

Next stop was Tashi view point - very famous view point in Gangtok. The view point is few steps in elevation and offers a great view of Gangtok valley. There is a watch tower here and nice views too. The falls, zoo, garden and view point are located nearby only separated by few kms. 

At the view point

BanJhakri waterfalls was amazing - it falls from a height of around 100 feet. The water falls so forcefully that we get wet going nearby. The place is a great one for photos. This place offers some time-killers for taking photos as it looks like a theme park. There are shops for food and souvenirs here. There is paragliding available nearby and we enquired - unfortunately, based on wind that day could support only 30-50 kg. They charge Rs.2500 for short ride (5 mins) and Rs.4500 (15 mins) for longer ride.

Last place for the day was Enchey Monastery. This is a historical monastery and smaller when compared to Rumtaang monastery. We could not visit Rumtaang due to time constraints. The monastery was very peaceful and positive vibes. We spent around 20-30 minutes here and headed back to room by 5 PM.

Entrance

Monastery

All about the monastery

Later in the evening, we went to M.G.Road by 6PM - had samosas and tea at Narayan Das hotel - recommended by local people and then rolls/momos at Roll house. Surprisingly, there were cultural events at the M.G.Road. We enjoyed the cultural and folk dances and had a memorable evening.

Long day and went to bed with fingers crossed for Lachung route to be clear next day.

Day-4
Though mild rains were there, the start was nice and bright. We tried reaching the driver for permit and he was not reachable. We reached the travels and they responded saying thay are also not able to rech the driver. By 09:15, driver called us and HURRAY - the permit was issued. We were off by 09:30. The plan was to goto LaChen and stay overnight. Then, visit Gurdongmar lake next day.

First, we stopped at Butterfly falls. It is a small falls falling from 50-60 feet. Nice place for photography and there are few shops as well.

Next, we stopped at Manul falls. This was running in full force. Amazing place to cherish the nature. There was a drizzle that made the falls look rapid - resembling Charpa falls of Kerala.

After crossing through Teesta hydroelectric powerplants, we reached Mangan for lunch. Our driver, Umang, who has been magnificent in his driving and suggestions, led us to Hotel Kalden. They served vegetarian meals for Rs.120 and chicken meals for Rs.160; also, they served local food. The food was fresh, hot and yummy. Such a food in a very remote town in Sikkim is just possible only if people want to take care of tourists well. Sikkim is just amazingly great in this aspect. After yummy food, we started back and reached Chungtaang by 12 PM. By then, rain started.

Gorgeous Teesta

Lunch @ Hotel in Mangan

Few kilometers and we met Naga falls. Because of the increasing rain, the Naga falls was very ferocious and amazing. The water was muddy and did not look like a good sign. There was a tea shop just near the falls - we had hot piping tea here and bunch of photos.

Tea Stall @ Naga falls

In few kms, we got the diversion for LaChen and LaChung. We went towards LaChen (on left) in the diversion and suddenly saw flash floods - oh my God ! Can water be so ferocious? ... We were taken by shock and the driver immediately said this will go on for days and let us take diversion to LaChung.

Flash floods when going onwards LaChen

Provided, we took package, we were totally taken care on cab and hotels. If we had booked ourself, I think we would have screwed the best way and stranded at all times. Booking a package in Himalayas is the BEST option. We could see people who did self booking and got into problems panicking and going back.

LaChung directions took care of our itinerary and we were back on track. Now, nature has itts own plans.

10 kms into the LaChung route, there was a waterfall on the road - literally water falling in the road; the problem was that water was accompanied by rocks !! There were army people there and they said things are going to get worse and better to go in a march of vehicles fast with army vans. On their company, our driver cleared the falling stones - the vehicle was hit by few stones; however moved forward.

Rocks falling on road with waterfalls

Next hurdle by Nature - we reached Bhimnala waterfalls - the water was running all through the road and there were army people there too. They said half of the wooden bridge is washed out, before the rest goes, go fast. OMG moment again .... The driver just did what only heroes do in movies - he was the first to clear the bridge and rest followed.

Awestruck ! We stopped for a tea in the pouring rain and in the tea stall, we heard from a passenger that there is flash flood ahead! A big one...Nature said this is not enough and there was a massive land slide. We had no idea how we can make next move. The only belief and trust was the presence of army with us. Then came a great news - the bridge at Naga falls - please read above; has been destructed by floods. So, no going back - only option was to wait for the landslide to be cleared. Army said, if your driver is fine, drive back to a Gurudwara at Chungtaang. Our driver was very confident that army and BRO - Border Roads Organiation will clear the landslide and there is only one way and it is ahead.

It was almost 4 hours that we were stuck here in the landslide and the BRO and army was just progressing to clear the rocks and big boulders. It was not easy at all by any terms and a great salute to army and BRO!!

Landslide towards LaChung

BRO into act !

Atlast, they cleared at around 7 PM - totally dark. The most important point is - it was still raining and dark; and once the rough route was ready, the local municipality and army trailed the route and made sure civilians can passs through safe. We shouted a big thank you for the army and BRO with lots of respect and shock of their determination and went ahead to LaChung.

We reached LaChung by 7:45 and checked-in to hotel Golden fish. Grand dinner was ready - soup, dhaall, roti, sabji, paneer, pappad and rice. Great and memorable day in life - went to bed by 8:30 PM with plans for next day as Zero point and Yumthaang valley.

Day 5

A great chilly and beautiful morning welcomed us. The town of La Chung is the final livable town in Sikkim and was such a beauty. We had a grand valley with water falls infront of us and ice-capped mountains in 360 degrees. What else one needs to see in life!

We did a sunrise walk around 5 and saw the beautiful sunrise fall on snowy tops. We had poha and sandwiches for breakfast and started towards Yumthang valley by 8 AM. It was a close to 90 minutes drive to Yumthang valley - we saw large areas of land slides and routes across them making us feel what we saw yesterday was small and this is part of life in Sikkim.

We decided to go to Zero point first and then stop at Yumthang valley. We stopped on the way for some amazing photos. Who said Swiss is beautiful ?? First, travel all over India and then one can share post in FB or Whatsapp if not in India!!

One has to go through Yumthang valley to reach zero point - Yumesamdong. We hired gum boots and went towards Zero point. There were couple of shopkeeper who came in our vehicle. Our driver conveyed that there are hardly 4-5 families of tourists in the valley and the roads are cut-off totally to the shopkeepers. After an hour drive, we experienced slight discomfort because of the gaining altitude and curvy roads.

On reaching Zero point, it took me 5-10 mins to gather my composure at the sub-zero temperature and low pressure. Zero point is just few kms before China border. We could see bunkers on the way and good roads. There was scattered snow and no much flowers. We could spot couple of yaks here and there.

Initially we spent 10-15 minutes at the zero point and then started feeling very hungry and thirsty. There were shops in 100m opened by the shopkeepers who came with us. They served us hot tea and masala sundal - brown Channa. They were life savers. We also had enough water and biscuits with us. Once we were done with our eating, the shopkeepers too vacated the shops as it would take 10-12 days for the tourists to come in. Next, 1 hour we slept unconsciously in the car until we reached Yumthang valley around 11:30.

The weather was picture perfect for photos and to enjoy nature. The driver dropped us few metres in the valley and went to the shopping area. We spent close to 45 mins on enjoying the nature of snow clad mountains, valley, blue water in the river, few yaks and us! Drizzling started and we started towards shops.

With hot maggis the tummy was happy and we then stopped at Hot springs - 1 km from Yumthang valley. One needs to cross the river by bridge and climb around 30-40 steps to see the spring. The spring was very small and housed in a small building. Hot water falls in a tub like structure and the water is quite dirty. It is believed to have medicinal value. Provided we had been in sub-zero temperature, we do not want to miss the dip in hot water. Couple of us dipped in for 10 minutes and enjoyed the hot water. Fortunately, there was none in the valley and we had amazing privacy to spend time.

It was almost 3 PM when we reached hotel back. The staff were waiting for giving us lunch and again, it was a super lunch. We took rest for sometime and visited local shop(s) in the evening as we wind up our trip of LaChung. Next day, was our day to return to Gangtok.

Day-5

The plan was go with Umang, our driver in his car until the bridge breakdown because of massive landslide and then change to another car. Kelly holidays had challenges in getting the transit car however, managed the whole plan well. After yummy pooris and sabji, we started around 09:30 - slight delay as we were engrossed onto television to know who was the new CM of Tamilnadu. Having known no changes, we started to Gangtok.

We saw several landslides on the way and thanks to our driver Umang, without him, we would have not enjoyed North Sikkim. With heavy heart, we left the driver and moved to the transit cab on the other side of the massive landslide. BRO and Army was working full fledged to restore bridge here. We could not locate the tea shop we saw near the falls and hope the woman who served us hot tea is still alive. We walked through small walkovers made of trees to transport people and reached the cab. It was Alto 800, quite uncomfortable to fit in our big luggages and us, however, no complaints in the situation.

Bridge dislocated

BRO and Army in action

Transfer between cabs

Army and BRO at work !

Hanging bridge... and tea shop has disappeared!!

We reached Gangtok around 3 PM and after some confusion in hotel rooms, we were checked-in to hotel Sikkim delight - a cosy delightful hotel - around 3 kms from main areas of Gangtok. The rooms are very spacious and with all required amenities. The restaurant provides buffet and on-order food - quite costly.

We wanted to try local food and had Aloo Tupka in a small restaurant nearby. We rested for sometime and went to M.G.Marg in the evening. We tried food in hotels in M.G.Marg - biryanis, Seel Roti, Bread chops and butter dosai at Hotel Agarwals.

Agarwals is quite crowded and small. But, good food. It is a self service restaurant and serving a huge list of various food items. The joint is small and quite difficult to accommodate in peak hours.

@ Agarwals

Sel roti and Bread chops

Next day, was planned for Tsomgo lake, Baba mandir and Nathula Pass. We had been vey keen on visiting Nathula pass - however, there were challenges as North Sikkim was cut-off and Nathula for 2 days, the whole bunch of tourists were towards Nathula.

Day-6

Kelly holidays made sure somehow we visited Nathula Pass. We had been told that we would be sharing the vehicles in single pass and need to cooperate - we were perfectly fine as Nathula Pass is a must visit for us.

After a buffet breakfast at hotel Sikkim delight, we took local taxi and reached the Kelly holidays office. We were given a Bolera and the drive was amazing. The route was one of the best to go and we stopped at a view point - where we can see kms of roads on the gigantic mountains.

On the way

Sooner around 11, we crossed Tsongmo lake, we decided to stop on return as it was returning. Our Nathula pass permit was for 4 vehicles together and we need to wait for others to come in. We had teas and hired shoes and jerkin - Rs.50 for shoes and Rs.100 for jerkin.

We then stopped at army canteen and had samosa. Around 1, all vehicles in the permit joined and marched towards Nathula pass. There were snow around and it was drizzling. Nathula pass was sub-zero, around -7 degrees.

The whole place was filled with snow and was difficult to walk. Slowly with determination and way shown by Sathish, we walked up. There was a tea shop and we took some tea to regain energy. We walked up, slid and reached the 50m in 15 minutes.

It was 2pm. There was the fence - India China border. We could not be there for 10 minutes in summer and army takes care of the border all 365 days - a massive respectful salute to Indian Army!!

As we were at the top, the magic happened. SNOW! SNOW! SNOW! The rain became snow and we felt in heaven. We enjoyed the snow for ten minutes and then felt very very cold. We spoke to the army and thanked them for taking care of the border. We came down and had hot tea again to regain composure.

Slowly, we walked to the parking lot and had some photos. The car did not have heater and our snowed clothes turned wet. We then reached the shop where we rented things and had hot hot tea, maggi and completed the lunch. We started back qnd got caught in a small landslide. As the drivers were trying to clear it, we saw falling stones in couple of more places. All were scared and the drivers did a great job of clearing the area in minutes and rushing us through the passage.

We returned back to hotel by 6 PM and had the buffet dinner followed by a very satisfactory sleep ... Having seen and drenched in snowfall.

Day 7

This day was planned for adventures at Gangtok. The idea was to give a shot for chopper ride, paragliding, white water rafting and rope car.

We hired a car for half a day at Rs.2000 and started to paragliding first. Paragliding is available near BanJhakri water falls. They cost Rs.2500 per person for 5-8 minutes ride and Rs.4500 for a higher altitude ride. We did the basic one.

The sky was very clear and slight wind. The paragliding team took us to a cliff and in few minutes we were off one by one. The ride was simple and enjoyable. We had a good view the Gangtok valley and landed safe in a football ground. Our car was ready to pick us there. We paid Rs.500 more for the selfie video taken during the flight.

All about Adventure Sikkim - Paragliding

Next, we visited the helipad. They charge Rs.9500 for a 5 pax for a joy ride of 15 minutes. This happen at Burtek helipad. We found that there were a couple who had booked for the ride and decided to share with them. We called them and met at M.G.Marg near the booking office and shared the ride with them. We completed our lunch at Hotel Paarivar in M.G.Road. The mini thaali costing Rs.180 had 4 rotis and rice with sabji and dall ... Enough for anyone!

We reached the helipad at 1 pm. Our train was at 9 pm at New Jalpaiguri. The chopper was coming from Bagdogra and was expected at 2:15. We had third slot for the chopper ride and by any means we felt we are going to forego the ride as we were fearing we might miss our train.

We engaged in conversation with the first slot person and suddenly he surprised us by giving us his slot. A big thanks to the gentleman from Chikmagalur coffee estate .... Coz of him we did the chopper trip in time to reach New Jalpaiguri.

The chopper ride was memorable, we could see almost all the places we saw in Gangtok sightseeing whole day in 15 minutes. Grand views of thick forests and deep valleys was just great and memorable.

Off the ride, we ran to the cab to catch our travels car to New Jalpaiguri. We stopped at Ladoo Gopal to buy some snacks for home and dinner parcel. We reached railway station by 7:30 and boarded the Padatik express safe and great.

Day 8

We reached Sealdah junction around 7 and took a taxi to airport. Off to home !!!!!

What an amazing trip ! Great hospitality by Sikkim and a real beauty of nature !!!