Quick trip to Valparai

Trip members: Karthik and friends

Trip date: 27 Dec 2023 - 29 Dec 2023

Trip Plan : Chennai - Coimbatore - Valparai - Coimbatore - Chennai

Valparai is a beautiful small hill station, 108 kms from Coimbatore. Valparai is know for its sprawling tea estates, the beautiful curvy roads and views. We started by overnight train from Chennai on 27 Dec and reached Coimbatore by morning 6:30.

Day-1

We refreshed and had tea/coffee, vadai and started by our pre-booked cab to Valparai. We bought breakfast parcel at Pollachi Hotel Gowrikrishna around 7:30; the plan being to take bath in monkey waterfalls, and then proceed with rest of the day.

Monkey Falls

The weather was cloudy and chill. Monkey falls is around 70 kms from Coimbatore and 29 kms from Pollachi. One has to buy entry tickets (per person and for the vehicle) twice to reach monkey falls - one for the Anamalai forest reserve area, while crossing Aliyar and then one at the entrance for the monkey falls. We reached Monkey falls around 8:30 and there almost no people. The waterfalls is just 100 m walk from the parking area and easily accessible. Water present was so apt to take bath comfortably with no crowd.

We spent close to 45 mins at the waterfalls taking bath and enjoying the chill water; almost like a private waterfalls. After the super energizing bath, we thought of having breakfast, but, there were so many monkeys. We attempted to stop inbetween at a view point, still monkeys came around. 

The ghat roads were so good and as be climbed altitude by the beautiful curvy hairpin bends, we were blessed with amazing weather, foggy roads and colder weather. We enjoyed every bit of our travel.

We stopped mid-way at Kadambaarai dam and had breakfast within the car as we were too hungry after the super bath! It served as a very good pit stop to click beautiful memories.

Enroute to Valparai

As we continued our pleasant ride, we entered the tea estates and had a pitstop again to enjoy the nature around. We had some tea, soaked in the weather and continued our ride!

Rooms were booked at a homestay - Green Mount homestay in the town of Valparai - few 100m before the Valparai market area. We reached the rooms by 11:45 and greeted by caretaker Mr.Sreejith. The rooms are spacious, clean and really big rooms with a dining table and water heater as well. Importantly, it had a great view of the tea estates behind from the room and from anywhere.

We took some information on local sightseeing and started the trip. We chose to start with the farthest point in one direction (as we do on any travel) - Nallamudi View point. Valparai has excellent board signs giving guidance to tourists to go around. 

Nallamudi View point

Nallamudi View point is 12 kms from the town and goes through amazingly beautiful tea estates. Nallamudi View point is one of the beautiful spots in Valparai. The vehicle can reach through to the parking area and one has to walk around 500 m to reach the view point. There is and entry fee of Rs.50 per person here. The walkway is amidst the tea estates and very nice to walk. We also sighted a wild mongoose on the walkway.

At the view point, we can see the hills around, lush green and some distant villages. We spent around 20 mins to enjoy the beautiful views and click some photos.

Koolangal River

Our next point was Koolangal River - a small river running by the tea estates; most importantly, the water bed naturally made of beautiful stones. This was an absolutely beautiful place and we sprung into the water. The place was mesmerizing and perfect place for a picnic.

 

We spent around 30 mins here and the time was around 3 PM. We skipped our lunch and had some fruits at the parking area at Koolangal River.

Nirar Dam

We then visited the last point on the circuit - Nirar dam - a further 20 min ride. We reached the Nirar dam and could view the water release side only from the main dam. We spent 10-15 mins at the dam, talking to a local and learning few things about the dam.

Enroute, we stopped by the Jayashree Tea estates outlet and bought tea a kg each at a very cheaper rate when compared to market price.

Evening at Valparai

We reached back to Valparai town around 4 PM and want to have some food. There are only 2 pure veg places - small places able to accommodate 8-10 people. We went to Hotel Anandas - a small eatery. They had only dosas and left over sides. But, we were absolutely ok to finish off whatever they were ready to offer.

Balaji temple

Post hot tea, we visited Balaji temple. We were stopped much before the parking area as time was past 4:30 PM. We were told that the temple is closed, however, we persisted to walk and go. We walked for close to a km and got to know that the temple is closed for darshan, however there will be a 2 min dharshan post evening puja. We decided to stay put, as we made it to the temple; and relaxed outside the temple. At 6 PM, we had a very good dharshan in that 2 mins and started back to the homestay.

Valparai Town

We reached back homestay, refreshed and took some rest. Around 8 PM, we went for dinner to the other vegetarian outlet in Valparai - Sri Sabari mess. We had some chapathis, dosas and they were very homely and prepared fresh.  Post dinner, we spent time walking around and buying local grown condiments and oils. There are few shops selling spices, condiments. 

Day-2

Early morning rise is the norm in travel and we had a walk and a tea. We also walked down the lane to wander around the tea estates. Back around 7AM at the room, we are getting ready for the check out and had breakfast. Breakfast was home made from nearby and served for us at the room - the kichadi, idly, vadai, sambhar and chutneys were simple and very good.

Sholayar dam

27 kms from Valaparai, on the road to enter Kerala via Athirapally, is the Sholayar dam. Sholayar dam is one of the big dams in the locality and is beautiful to see. With time in mind, we reached the best point to view the dam and stopped there, instead of going all the way near to the dam. We spent around 15 mins viewing the sprawling reservoir and started back to the home stay, we had mid day train to catch from Coimbatore to Chennai.

We reached back homestay, packed and left, thanking our caretaker Mr.Sreejith for a very good facility at Valparai. We stopped at Aliyar for all-the-fresh Pollachi elaneer (tender coconut).

If time permits, one can visit Aliyar dam. Additional days can be spent for Top slip and Pollachi local places. Do read this blog for more info on other places around Pollachi.

We also bought some varieties of chips at A1 chips near Coimbatore and reached the railway station on time. We packed some lunch for us from RHR and had in the Shatabdi train to Chennai.

A very short trip and the weather made it very memorable.

Bomdila - Dirang - Sela Pass - Tawang - Bum La - Kaziranga

Trip members: Karthik with India_on_Wheelz

Trip date: 19 Dec 2023 - 25 Dec 2023

Trip Plan : Chennai - Guwahati - Bomdila - Dirang - Se La Pass - Tawang - Bum La Pass - Tawang - Jung - Bomdila - Kaziranga - Guwahati - Chennai

About the trip

The trip was planned by India on wheelz (#indiaon_wheelz) Shashi. I joined his group of 9 members plan for Arunachal + Kaziranga. The plan was to visit the high altitude passes of Se La, Bum La and experience frozen lake; plus, Kaziranga.

Shashi runs trips for Arunachal-Kaziranga and Meghalaya frequently. He can be contacted by call or whatsapp on +918121010101 

Distances

• Guwahati – Bomdila – 257 kms – 7:30 hrs
• Bomdila – Tawang – 177 kms – 5:30 hrs (via Se la Pass)
• Bomdila – Dirang – 42 kms – 1:15 hr
• Dirang – Se la Pass – 61 kms – 2 hrs
• Sela pass – Tawang – 73 kms – 2:30 hrs
• Tawang – Bum La – 34 kms – 1:30 hrs
• Tawang - Sungaster Lake - 36 kms - 1:30 hrs
• Tawang - Jung - 31 kms - 1 hr
• Bomdila - Kaziranga - 226 kms - 5:45 hrs
• Bomdila - Tezpur - 151 kms - 3:30 hrs
• Tezpur - Kaziranga (Kohora Gate, Main entrance) - 76 kms - 2 hrs
• Kaziranga – Guwahati airport – 182 kms – 4 hrs

I started to Guwahati mid day on 19th Dec by Indigo and reached by evening. As part of extended help, Shashi has helped book shared rooms for us closer to the airport at Govardhan Home Stay. After relaxing for a bit, met Shashi (Indiaon_wheelz) and my co-trippers for dinner at Maa Kamakya Bhojnalaya.

Day-1

The plan was to start the trip around 8:30 AM post breakfast; after some flight delay, couple of co-trippers arrived and we started around 10:00 AM on a tempo traveller. We went closer to the border of Bhutan and an opportunity to exit India and enter no man's land and return back. This place is at Bhairabkunda on India side and Daifam on Bhutan side.

Entrance for Bhutan

We spent around 10 mins take some photos and started back towards Bomdila. The roads on Assam side were quite bad and so was the local traffic all over the road.

Exiting India...

Entry of Bhutan ...

Entering Arunachal....

First view of Arunachal...

We stopped for lunch at Bhairabkunda - choice of veg thali or non-veg thali. Veg thali had a roti, aloo sabji, palak, papad, rice and dal. We were hungry enough to finish it fast and resume our journey.

Reaching Bomdila

The route was quite desolated all along with very few small villages appearing then and there. We also hit a break during sunset because of a land slide and were stuck for around 45 mins before the road was ready. It did coincide with a beautiful view of sunset and was a good time pass.

We reached Bomdila around 8 PM and checked in to Anu's homestay. The dinner was ready by the time we reached. It was super cold - around 2 degrees and windy. The homestay had electric warm beds and it was very soothing.

We did have long chats over dinner (roti, paneer sabji, aloo sabji, rice, dal, pickle and papad), got to know each other more and discussed about the rest of the next day's plan.

Day-2

Day-2 started with an inspiration to see my first sunrise of Arunachal, got up early, took bath, packed myself with 5 layers, grab the camera and run down to the main road. The sun was already out around 6:30 AM and still enjoyed the chilling windy weather and fresh sun rays.

I just walked up and down for 20 odd minutes by the road and got few glimpses of the Bomdila valley.

Bomdila Valley

Glimpse of snowy peaks enroute Bomdila - Dirang 

Dirang

The plan for the day was to visit Dirang monastery and Se La pass; Nuranang waterfalls at Jung if time permits; and reach Tawang. We had very good breakfast of poori, baaji. The homestay also served eggs/omelettes. We started around 8:30 AM and the first stop at Dirang was reached around 9:30 - Dirang monastery.

Dirang is around 1 hour journey from Bomdila. Dirang monastery, known as Thupsung Dhargey Ling Monastery, is one the beautiful monasteries in Arunachal and located with a stunning view. We spent close to 45 mins at the monastery, going around and inside the monastery - admiring the beauty around as well as the inner self. The monastery had been inaugurated in 2017 and also hosts a learning institute for Tibetian Buddhism. 

We started towards Se La pass and stopped in between for a bio-break and having some refreshments in preparation for a long journey and possibly a delayed lunch. We bought some snacks and fruits as lunch could be had later than noon post Se La pass.

Se La Pass

The green landscape started reducing as we started to make altitude and gave way for the old, rocky, snowy and massive Himalayas and definitely colder!

We reached Se La pass around 12:30 PM. Se La is at an altitude of 13700 feet and is the gateway to Tawang. Se La lake present exactly at the Se La Pass is one of the 100+ lakes in the region and are considered sacred. Se La is also one of the highest motorable mountain passes in the planet.  

We were blessed with blue skies, clear weather at Se La pass. We spent close to 1 hour here, walking down the Se La lake and some time with the snow as well. The Se La lake was partially frozen, with a layer of ice on top and water beneath. It was a great sight to see. The Se La pass is also called Paradise lake.

After enjoying the pass till 1:45 PM, we started our journey towards Tawang. We reached Jaswantgarh memorial around 2:30 PM. The plan was to visit the memorial as well as have lunch in the military canteen. We all rushed to use the restrooms and have lunch - aloo parathas and masala dosas were available. Simple and yummy food - prepared fresh as we order for a very nominal cost. Indian army does protect our country and us, and also feed us in areas like this and encourage tourist movements. They also have a outlet selling winter wears and many of us did shopping too.

Jaswantgarh memorial 

Jaswant Garh memorial is an important spot in Arunachal and is stopped to visit by all tourists. This memorial is in honor of late Jaswant Singh Rawat, an Indian rifleman of Garhwal Rifles, for his bravery in fighting the Chinese. The memorial is in honour of Jaswant Rawat, fighting the India-Sino war in 1962. The rifleman stoodby to stop advancing Chinese army for 3 days with the help of 2 Mongpa girls - Sela and Nuranang.

Sunset around 16:45 was so beautiful as we entered Tawang. We reached our homestay by 6:30 PM and it was pitch black by then. We stayed at Choedar homestay - the homestay was in the outskirts of Tawang. We had some time together, chitchatting, playing few games, followed by dinner.

Day-3

Arunachal - Land of rising sun

Arunachal, as the name goes, is land of rising sun - The first sun rays of India! Got up early in the morning and wanted to witness the first rays. After waiting patiently from 5:30 AM, we could sight the rays around 6:40 AM. Wow, what a moment to catch the first rays and the glowing valley of Tawang was a beautiful sight.

I could capture the Giant Buddha statue glowing by the rays of the sun!

Starting to Sangester Tso

The plan was to visit BumLa Pass, Sangester lake and local sight seeing of Tawang. Post breakfast of bread and eggs, we started the day around 9 AM. Our cabs from Assam or Arunachal will not be permitted to enter the Bum La pass and Sangetser lake. We took 2 local permitted cabs to enter this area. More over, ILP is required to enter this area - one has to pre-apply for this and get it ready. Our package included these costs and made it very comfortable to enjoy the trip rather than go through the hassles/process for ILP and permit to enter this area.

Panga Teng Tso lake

Sangester Tso (Lake)

The lake is around 35 kms from Tawang and takes close to 1:30 hours. There will be checks for ILP and permit to enter the area. The roads leading to Sangester lake were having ice and snow and made it a difficult ride to reach the lake. The drive was thrilling and very beautiful.

Sangester Lake is also known popularly as Madhuri Lake. This lake freezes in winter and makes it a grand sight to visit. The lake became popular after the movie Koyla was shot here, starring, Madhuri Dixit. The lake was surrounded by hills covered by fresh snow. The lake was almost completely frozen.

The popular Golden Ducks of Sangester lake

The blue skies again on this day, made it so special amidst the snow covered mountains and the enchanting lake, decorated by fallen trees! An earthquake in the region has created this lake and fallen trees still stand there make it a special sight.

We spent around 1 hour at the lake and got to know we got more time since there was an army convoy descending up the hills. We spent time at the army canteen on some hot snacks and chai. It was almost 11 AM by the time we started from the lake towards Bum La Pass.

Enroute to Bum La Pass

Bum La Pass is one of the highest passes in the world at an altitude of 15200 feet! The Tawang to Bum La pass distance is 35 kms and takes around 1:30 hours; distance from Sangester Lake is 25 kms and takes around 1 hour. There are army checkposts on this route as well to validate the ILP and permit to enter this segment. The route is absolutely stunning and a great experience of viewing the ancient rocky Himalayas with snow and many small frozen lakes!

Bum La Pass

One has to cross the check post to enter the Bum La pass before 11 AM. Bum La pass is an entry into Tibet and was one of the ancient trading routes; now the line of actual control. By entering Bum La pass, one gets to see the grand Tibetian plateau. Bum La pass is also one of those locations where Indian army and PLA conduct Border Personal Meetings. There is an army canteen as well serving hot chai and some snacks like momos and maggi.

No photography/camera is allowed to be used once you enter the zone. Once can take photographs at the milestone of Bum La pass but not later than that. The Indian army greets us and elaborates on the geo-political situation of the area, the past wars and ongoing situations for a good 25-30 minutes. While we struggle to walk and hold on to our breath, its stunning how our army guards our nation in such rude weathers! A big salute! The battle Bum La pass was a major part of 1962 Indian-Sino war.

Tawang Monastery

We returned from Bum La pass to complete sight seeing in Tawang. Tawang monastery in the town of Tawang. Tawang monastery is the second biggest and oldest monastery in Asia, founded in 1680-81. The monastery is situated on top of a hill overlooking the town of Tawang. The place for the monastery was chosen by a celestial horse - 'Ta' means horse and 'wang' means chosen - Tawang.

We could to enter the main place as some special prayers were going on. We went around the monastery and also enjoyed the grand view of the town of Tawang.

Giant Buddha Statue

The Giant Buddha statue is visible from any point in Tawang. It also has a prayer hall. We spent time visiting the place and walking around. 'I love Tawang' signage is also present nearby down the slope from the giant statue.

We then dropped by Tawang market around 5 PM. Since we did not have lunch and want to cover Tawang sightseeing before sunset - sunset happens around 5 PM; we dropped by the market road to have some food. We split ourselves and went into the couple of cafes on the market road and had some really good food - sandwiches, pizza, pasta and cakes.

Tawang War memorial and Sound/Light Show

Tawang War memorial is within the town of Tawang. The War memorial stands tall with a giant Stupa in remembrance to the sacrifices of the soldiers of 1962 Indo-China war. There is a light and sound show at the war memorial displaying photos, videos and narration of the war that happened and how the place was secured in the war. Recommended to visit the show when in Tawang - its a 45 min show and one has to buy tickets at the counter at the war memorial.

We attended the show in its first slot - there are 2 shows - 5:15 PM and 6:30 PM - it would be dark by 4:30 PM, hence 5:15 PM is preferable, before it could get much colder. Once the show was complete, we visited the display rooms in War memorial and learnt more about the culture, geography and war scenes.

Post this, we reached back to our home stay for a very good dinner.

Day-4

Day-4 plan was to visit the missed Nuranang waterfalls, a monastery and then reach Bomdila by early evening for some shopping at the Bomdila market.

Post breakfast, we started around 8:30 AM and stopped at Ugyenling monastery.

Ugyenling / Urgelling monastery

Urgelling monastery is located at 5 kms from Tawang towards Bomdila. This is the birth place of the 6th Dalai Lama and considered to be one of the holiest monasteries.

Nuranang waterfalls

Nuranang waterfalls is just few kms before the town of Jung. The falls is 1 km from the main road, and has some parking space for vehicles. However, the day we went, there was some VIPs visiting and our vehicle was stopped at the entrance itself and we walked the 1 km to reach the waterfalls.

The waterfalls is very beautiful with the water entering a thin river as it lands. Water falls from a height of 100 m. The waterfalls is named after the Monpa girl, Nura, who helped Indian Rifleman Jaswant Singh, during the Indo-Sino war. We spent around 30 - 45 mins at the waterfalls and enjoyed the beautiful nature around.

Our journey towards Bomdila through the Se La pass started and the enchanting beauty of Himalayas continued to woe us all the way.

We stopped at Army canteen at Baisakhi for lunch. There were 2 eateries, one serving dosas and other aloo parathas - we enjoyed the fresh food at the army canteen and few also spent time on shopping at the canteen.

Reaching Bomdila

We reached Bomdila around 6 PM at the market place. We bought some souvenirs, local mushrooms and anything that is special in Arunachal. Reached back the same homestay - Anu homestay, a very comfortable place, very good service and food. 

Day-5

The primary aim was to the afternoon safari at Kaziranga and started at 5:30 AM from Bomdila. It was super cold around 2 degrees in the morning. We freshened up and started from Bomdila.

Drive towards Tezpur 

The early morning drive towards Tezpur exiting Arunachal was very beautiful. The mist, cloud filled valleys, Kameng river beneath and the curvy well built roads, small villages, monasteries and what not! We passed through the newly built Nechiphu tunnel and by the beautiful Sessa valley. 

Towards Kaziranga

We stopped for morning tea around 8 AM at Bhalukpong, since no other shops were open or even present enroute till then. Had breakfast at Hotel Kanayaka's food hut after entering Assam around 10 AM. The food was freshly prepared - rotis and sabji. Enroute to Kaziranga, crossed Brahmaputra river, Tezpur and entered the Kaziranga forest zone.

Roads leading to the Kaziranga entrance goes through the forest zone. One, if has luck, can site Wild water buffaloes and the great Indian single horned Rhino from the roads. 

About Kaziranga National Park

There are four different safari ranges in Kaziranga wildlife sanctuary - Kohora (Central), Bagori (Western) Range, Agaratoli (Eastern) Range, Burapahar Range. The Jeep safari is 2 hours while the elephant safari is for 1 hour. Please check the official website for safari rates and timings as they may change time to time. Kaziranga safari sightings are very common to see deer, wild boars, rhinoceroses, spotted deer, barking deer, sambhar deer, wild lizards, turtles and wide varieties of water birds. Based on luck, one can also sight Tigers, elephants, bears and panthers. One can also see wild orchids here.

Kohora range is the biggest and has multiple routes for the safari jeep to go. There are watchtowers too on this route as like other routes. This range has multiple large waterbodies and increases the probability of sighting. Bagohri and Agaratoli ranges are comparatively small but they have different degree of sightings.

Our safari and sightings

We reached the Kohora gate around 2:30 PM, bought some water bottles and started our jeep safari. Do be mindful to take water, plus proper dressing to cover your head and face as the safari is going to be dusty as like any safari. We did see couple of Rhinos from the main road while we approached Kaziranga from Tezpur, so, our expectations were high to see a Tiger too, though practically it is a low probability.

We spotted loads of spotted deer and barking deer, and a couple of rhinos in long distance. Rhinos can be spotted with cranes or any other water birds on their back. It is very difficult to spot the Rhino directly when they are in water or amidst the grass.

Then, we spotted a bunch of wild water buffaloes and massive number of deer; followed by few wild boars and monkey.

From the watchtower, we could see the wide stretch of landscape and can imagine the richness of flora and fauna. By one of the waterbodies, wide open, we spotted grazing Rhino and turtles as well; and lots of water birds.

Sunset begun and it was a beautiful dusk and some more spotting on low light - water buffaloes, more rhinos, wild lizard and an elephant!

Orchid park

As the sunset happened, we reached Orchid park, which is few kms from the sanctuary entrance to do some local shopping as well as spend time to see a 1 hour cultural program of 7 different Assamese dances - Each dance was so unique and there was an elaboration about the same before the performance. We happened to see the 7 dances - Jhankar, Bhortal Nritya, Bagurumba, Hamzar, Bamboo dance, Deodhani Nritya and Bihu.

Each of them were so unique and the most famous 2 dances - Bamboo and Bihu dances. There is also a eatery there to have food.

We reached our homestay by 8:30 PM, checked-in after a very long day with variety of things done. The food was excellent and we had some time together by the campfire.

Day-6

A relaxed start for the day as it was the last day of the trip, re-packing and getting all set. Breakfast of poori, aloo sabji and a special chutney. The special chutney has a mention because it was prepared with black chenna, green bhoot julokia and salt! Wow, it was truly a great delicacy. Poori was gulped with the chutney more than the sabji!

Maha Mrityunjay Temple

Enroute to Guwahati airport, we sopped for few minutes at the very popular Maha Mrityunjay Temple at Nagaon in Assam. Since it was a Sunday, there was a long queue at the temple. We managed to circumambulate the temple and managed to sneak in for a dharshan quickly. Very calm and serene dharshan and started back on the road.

My Tripmates

Reached Guwahati airport around 3 PM and took my flight back to Chennai. One more state touched and great memories of winter Arunachal - frozen lake!