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Monday, August 27, 2018

Chettinad - Rameswaram

Tour Members - Karthik, Sathish Raja, Sankar Ganesh, TP, Dhanaraj
Dates - 25 and 26 August 2018

Chennai - Karaikudi - Pillayarpatti - Thirukoshtiyur - Athangudi - Kanadukathan - Dhanushkodi - Rameswaram - Chennai

Again, a weekend trip to cover some locally popular places down South-East of Tamilnadu.

Day-1

We reached Karikudi railway station by 5:00 AM by Boat mail train. Cab was booked already and we reached Pillayarpatti first. Sankar had arranged for refreshing in a cottage through his known circles and we went to the temple by 7 AM. Pillayarpatti is around 16 kms from Karaikudi. This place hosts the very ancient and popular rock cut cave shrine of Lord Vinayaga - known as Lord Karpaga Vinayagar. This temple was built by Pandyas and the cave is believed to be carved out in 4th century  AD. Other sanctums in the temple include Lingams Thiruveesar, Marudheesar and Senchadeswarar and respective Goddesses, Kathyayini, Laxmi, Saraswathi and Durga. We had a very good dharshan as there was no crowd then. The temple timings are 6 AM  to 1 PM and 4 PM to 8.30 PM.


We came out by 7:30 and had breakfast at a local restaurant in Pillayarpatti - Ganapathi Vilas on the temple road. The tiffen items were fairly good - homely - pongal, idlies, vada and dosas. Our next destination was Thirukoshtiyur. Thirukoshtiyur is around 16 kms from Pillayarpatti. 

Thirukoshtiyur is one of the 108 divya desams and the presising deity is Sri Sowmya Narayana Perumal. The temple timings are from 7 am – 12.30pm and 4.30pm-8.30pm. History says this is place where Brahma, Shiva, all devas, Saptha Rishis assembled to plan the death of Asura Hiranyakashipu. As they came as a group and hence Thirukoshtiyur, koshti meaning a group. The temple is of 3 tiers and Lord Vishnu poses as Nindran (standing posture), Kidanthan (sleeping posture), Aadinan (dancing posture). One has to climb narrow steep steps to reach the top tier on the gopuram to see all 3 levels. Elders and physically challenged people might find it difficult to reach to the top. One gets to also know that this is the place was the one where, Ramanuja was advised by Thirukachi Nambigal about a manthra and asked to keep it secret. But Ramanuja felt that sharing this mantra with the public as it should be useful to all of them. He went straight to the temple of Sowmya Narayana perumal and stood on the top of Gopuram and loudly shouted the Mantram. Then, Thirukachi Nambigal understands that it is nature for everyone to benefit and changes. 





We spent around 45 minutes in this temple and then travelled to Kundrakudi Murugan temple; reached by 9:15 AM. Kundrakudi Murugan temple is around 5 kms from Pillayarpatti and 20 kms from Thirukoshtiyur. This temple is setup on top of a small hillock with steps carved out on the rocks. Lord Shanmuga is presiding deity with Valli and Deivanai. Kundrakudi is also known locally as Kunnakudi. This temple is also one of the rock-cut temples built during Pandyas. Temple timings are 6 AM to 11 AM and 4 PM to 8 PM.




Now, we entered the Chettinad region - Athangudi. Athangudi palace allows visitors from 10 AM to 5 PM. We reached there by around 9:50 and promptly allowed by the care taker for Rs.50 as charges to enter. The palace is quite humongous; however, we were allowed to see only 3 big halls - one the main hall, one with mutram and one being used for dining hall. All three of different type of views and amazing architecture. The main hall had great paintings and tiles depicting the interest shown in the region to build grand palaces during pre-Independence periods. Each of us spent quality time as per our likes across each of these halls and came out with satisfaction of seeing a grand palace of Chettinad.










Next, we went to Kanadukathan, where it is known not to allow visitors in. Kanadukathan is around 10 kms from Athangudi via Soorakudi. We saw the Chettiyar palace from outside - the grand White palace with big towers and walls around. We spent around 10-15 minutes to see this palace from outside and left. This palace was constructed by Dr.Annamalai Chettiyar. Felt bad that visitors are not allowed to see this; however, if people are still living, it makes sense.






We then, started to Rameswaram - to visit Dhanushkodi - Arichal Munai. Arichal Munai is around 180 kms from Kanadukathan - route via Devakottai, Devipatnam - Ramnad - Pamban. Enroute, we stopped for lunch at Hotel Sri Aiswarya at Ramnad. The lunch - meals was quite decent enough for the sambhar, rasam, poriyal and kootu. 

We stopped in-between on the Pamban bridge to admire the beauty of nature on either side of the bridge. One can only amaze at seeing the beauty of the seas from that elevation.






Towards Dhanushkodi - Arichal Munai; the first spot to stop is Gothandaramar Temple. This is the place where it is believed that Vibeeshanan was made as King of Lanka once Rama killed Ravanan in the war. The trip towards Gothandaramar temple and the views the temple offers us all around is amazing. The place is a great time killer for photo enthusiasts. One gets to spot red sand in few spots, believed to be turned red because of the blood shed by Hanuman while trying to remove the Linga made by Sita. We gave this place a miss as we want to spend more time in other places.

The spots on this route are Gothandaramar temple - Mukuntharayar Chathiram - Dhanushkodi - Arichal Munai. Mukuntharayar Chathiram is the place where there are sandy as well as rocky beaches. 5 kms from here is Dhanushkodi - the dilapidated ghost town. Further 4.5 kms from Dhanushkodi is Arichal Munai. Arichal Munai is the land's end and further down is Sri Lanka. Earlier, none were allowed to Arichal Munai and last year, after the Government laid the roads, now this is accessible for everyone on own vehicles or government operated buses from Rameswaram. On the way, we were also surprised to see White desert - much like Rann of Kutch.




We reached Arichal Munai - which is now an open entrance to every public, by 3:30 PM. One side of the land's edge sees nice waves steaming onto the shore. On the other side, one can enjoy a beach with no waves; which is a great delight for many people, one can witness so much fun and frolic; especially children. We spent around 20 minutes on the beach, walking around the abundantly beautiful white sands and waters!





Dhanushkodi stands as the symbol of ruins with its torn down church, school and railway station. After spending some time, we reached the our stay in Rameswaram by 6 PM.





We spent the evening walking around the main temple and enjoyed the dinner at a local mess - Murugan mess. They serve homely tiffen items - idlies and dosas. The food was very simple and nice. We reached back and went to bed early in the night as we woke by early, long day and also a very early morning to wake up in the morning for Spatika Linga dharshan.

Day-2

Morning 4:30, and we are starting to the Rameswaram temple. The Spatika Lingam dharshan happens between 5 AM to 6 AM. Spatika Lingam dharshan is one of the popular events of the temple - where the main deity would be behind the screens and a Spatika Lingam - 1 feet tall. The Abhishekams and pujas would be done for the Spatika Lingam for 1 hour - 5 AM to 6 AM and then the dharshan shall move on to the main deity. People throng to see the Spatika Lingam to get special blessings.






By 6 AM, we had bath at Agni Theertham - the banks of the sea. The visit to Ramanathaswamy temple is done in this order. Perform the Spatika Lingam dharshan early in the morning. Then, goto Angi Theertham and perform ocean bath during sunrise. Agni Theertham is the most prominent Theerthams of 22 Theerthams to visit before offering prayers to Lord Ramanathaswamy. Agni Theerthan is the ghat on the ocean where it is believed that the Agni (fire) is in form of water and shall wash away one's sins. We then continued to the rest of the 22 Theerthams as well. More info about this is available in my earlier blog:

http://karthikwander.blogspot.com/2017/07/rameswaram-and-around.html

Post holy bath and dharshan of the main deity, followed by the dharshan of other prominent sanctums of Goddess Parvathavardhini, Lord Natarajar in Rudra mandap, Athmalingam, Kasi Viswanathar and Lord Hanuman. There is also the Jeeva Samadhi of Siddhar - Pathanjali. Sri Pathanjali is considered the first siddhar.

We had breakfast at Murugan mess, which is located in the adjacent narrow street from the main temple. It is around 10 minutes walk from the temple and worth it. The pooris, pongal, idlies, vada were all good. The Murugan mess is locatable by Google maps.



By 10:30, we went for Snorkeling at Holy Island. This is located just 1 km from Agni theertham. We all did some snorkeling for little more than 1 hour. We were able to see nice rocks, some corals, colourful fishes, sea cucumber.


We came out and had lunch at Jivan residency - a pretty good option for North Indian food. We order few starters, soups, naans and rotis. The food was prepared fresh and hence took some time. The food is very good and felt delighted as we were very hungry coming out of the sea.

We came back to the room, took some rest and started back to Chennai after having dinner. We were very fortunate to see a great view of Pamban bridge over the seas during full moon. The stunning moment shall be fresh in our memories for a longer time.