Karthik's Wander: October 2022

Trip Plan

Trip members: Karthik and family

Trip date: 08-09 Oct 2022

Trip Plan : Chennai - Karaikudi - Aavudayaar Koil - Thiruppunavayil - Thiruvadanai - Kalayarkoil - Kanadukathan - Thirumeyyam - Pillayapati - Thirukostyur - Thirupattur - Piranmalai - Karaikudi- Chennai

The plan was to visit temples of Pandyan kingdom regions and Chettinad palaces around Karaikudi. A relaxed load for a weekend trip.

Day-1

We reached Karaikudi by train around 4:30 AM by Rameshwaram express. Since we needed a very early check-in and late checkout by 7 PM on Sunday for the return train, I had booked a Hotel - Hotel Ess Pee Inn at Karaikudi for 2 days by phone. Often, all online portals allow mid-day check-in and check-out. Hence, direct booking was required for odd time of check-in and check-out, which is mostly ok when booked directly. The rooms were very clean and spacious. The place does not have a restaurant. I had also booked a Ertiga for 5 of us for 2 days at a nominal rate at per/km tariff.

We planned 4 halves of the 2 days as circuits to see.

Circuit-1 - Avudaiyarkoil - Thiruppunavayil - Thiruvadanai - Kalayarkoil - (Nattarasan Kottai)
Circuit-2 - Athangudi Palace - Kanadukathan - Thirumeyyam
Circuit-3 - Koviloor - Kundrakudi - Pillayarpatti - Vairavan Koil - Pattamangalam - Thirukkoshtiyur - Tirupattur - Piranmalai
Circuit-4 - Local temples and shopping at Karaikudi

Avudaiyar Koil

Avudaiyar Koil is around 43 kms from Karaikudi, little more than 1 hour drive. Avudaiyar Koil is famous for the amazing sculptures of the Shri Athamanathaswamy Temple. The temple is not a Padal Petra Sthalam, but the temple itself was built by Shri Manickavasagar. The temple has amazing sculptures depicting events in the various mythological happenings. The temple also displays amazing architectural artefacts like iron screws in construction, stone rings, musical pillars, 27 stars, 9 sculptures of the Navagrahas on pillars, Nattiya mudras and much more. The temple is where Lord Shiva himself came as Guru for Manickavasagar.

Another significance of the temple is that the aarti deepam is not let outside of the main sanctum with Lord Shiva representing himself as Jyoti. The temple also depicts Lord Shiva on a horse representing the mythological event of foxes turned to horses (Nari Pari aana kathai).

After visiting the temple, we had breakfast at a small mess - Lena mess - quite good tiffen items - pongal, vadai, idli and dosai.

Thiruppunavayil

Deity: Shri Virudhapureeswarar, Shri Palampathinathar (Lord Shiva), Goddess Periya Nayaki

About: This is one of the 276 Paadal Petra Sthalams. This is 7th Shiva Sthalam in Pandiya Nadu.

Timing : 6:00 AM to 11:30 AM, 4 PM to 7:30 PM.

Parking: Available near the temple

Route: Thiruppunavayil is around 28 kms from Avudaiyar Koil - almost 1 hour drive. The roads are quite good. Can be located easily in Google maps.

Google Maps Code - PNT007

History: The temple deity - Lord Shiva is worshipped by Lord Brahma for him to continue his role of creation. The temple also has the biggest Avudayar of Lord Shiva - of 30 yards. The temple also hosts all 14 Shivalingas representing 14 Pandiya Nadu Padal Petra sthalams.

Thiruvadanai

Deity: Shri Adhi Ratneswarar (Lord Shiva), Goddess Snehavalli

About: This is one of the 276 Paadal Petra Sthalams. This is 9th Shiva Sthalam in Pandiya Nadu.

Timing : 6:00 AM to 12:00 PM, 4:30 PM to 8:30 PM.

Parking: Available near the temple

Route: Thiruvadanai is around 28 kms from Thiruppunavayail - 45 mins hour drive. The roads are quite good. Can be located easily in Google maps.

Google Maps Code - PNT009

History: Muni Agasthyar, Markandeya and Kamadhenu are said have visited this temple and worshipped. Vaaruni, son of Varuna bhagavan, was cursed for being disrespectful to Sages and took the form for a weird animal - head like aadu and body of elephant - Aadu and Aanai. Post his worship to Lord Shiva at this place to be healed, the places is called as Thiru aadu aanai - Thiruvadanai.

Kalayar Koil

Deity: Shri Sorna Kaleeswarar (Lord Shiva), Goddess Snehavalli

About: This is one of the 276 Paadal Petra Sthalams. This is 10th Shiva Sthalam in Pandiya Nadu.

Timing : 6:00 AM to 12:00 PM, 4:00 PM to 8:30 PM.

Parking: Available near the temple

Route: Kalayar Koil is around 35 kms from Thiruvadanai - 45 mins hour drive. The roads are quite good. Can be located easily in Google maps.

Google Maps Code - PNT010

History: There are three sanctums for Lord Shiva in this temple - Sorna Kaleeswarar (with Sornambikai), Sundreswarar (depicting Madurai) with Meenakshi and Someswarar (with Soundara Nayaki.

One can also visit Shri Kannathal Temple at Nattarasan Kottai, near to Kalayar Koil. We were too tired after the very early start for the day, with train reaching around 4:30 AM and planned to reach back the hotel for lunch and a mid day rest before we start the evening circuit. We had lunch at Hotel Jainika - the meals was just ok.

Day-1 evening

We started around 3:30 PM. The plan was to visit Chettinad palace in Athangudi, Kanadukathan palace and then Thirumeyyam fort along the Divya Desam temple in Thirumeyyam.

Athangudi Palace

Athangudi palace allows visitors from 10 AM to 5 PM. We reached there by around 4 PM and entered for Rs.50. The palace is quite humongous; however, we were allowed to see only 3 big halls - one the main hall, one with mutram and one being used for dining hall. All three had stunning art work, coloured glasses and beautiful architecture with high roofs. The main hall had great paintings and tiles depicting the interest shown in the region to build grand palaces.

Kanadukathan

Next halt was Kanadukathan, where it is known not to allow visitors in. Kanadukathan is around 10 kms from Athangudi via Soorakudi. We saw the Chettiyar palace from outside - the grand White palace with big towers and walls around. We spent around 10-15 minutes to see this palace from outside and left. This palace was constructed by Dr.Annamalai Chettiyar. Felt bad that few visitors are allowed and few are not. On enquiry, we were told that permission letters were required; however, a batch of tourists, whom we met in the previous place had no idea of the place and where let in on whatever could be the bargain!

Next, the driver took us to another nearby Chettinad house to go around and see the architecture - mainly from the terrace too. There are few other Chettinad houses who collect Rs.50 per person and allow tourists in. We went around and reached the terrace to see some views, which we can relate to few Tamil films that have been shot.

Thirumeyyam Fort and Divya Desam temple

Thirumeyyam is open till 5:00 PM and we were the luckiest most to be allowed in exactly at 4:59 PM. The fort is quite small, but one has to climb massive rocks to reach the top and get a good view. The fort was built of Raja of Ramnad in 17th centuty, primarily to safeguard from regional threats. The fort was also known as Oomayan Kottai in line with Oomai Thurai who was also a local chieftain in that period.

Divya Desam Temple

Deity: Shri Sathyagiri Natha Perumal (Lord Vishnu), Ujeevana Thayar

About: This is one of the 108 Divya Desam Temples

Timing : 6:00 AM to 11:00 PM, 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM.

Parking: Available in narrow streets near the temple

Route: The temple is a cave temple by the Thirumeyyam fort, The roads are narrow and dead end. Can be located in Google maps.

History: Lord Vishnu is in Anatha Sayanam stature and is beautiful. One cannot go around the sanctum as the temple is a cave temple. We had very good dharshan and also prasadham as it was Saturday evening. It is said that the temple was built by Mahendra Pallava whereas few references quote Pandya king.

We finished the day relished a super dinner at Hotel Malli - had serving of local delicacies - valai elai parotta, appam, idiyappam, kuzhi paniyaram with cups of sambhar, kurma and chutneys. It was very very good and we decided to come again next day too to the same place!

Day-2

Day-2 started with heavy rain! The plane was to be visit the circuit with most number of temples on the rainy day!

Koviloor - Kundrakudi - Pillayarpatti - Vairavan Koil - Pattamangalam - Thirukkoshtiyur - Tirupattur - Piranmalai

Koviloor Shivan Temple

The driver stopped at the first temple, which we never knew, The Shiva temple is by the outskirts of Karaikudi and filled with massive and beautiful sculptures all along. Unfortunately, the temple was not well lit by the time we started so early by 6 AM. The main deity of Lord Shiva is worshipped as Kotravaleeswarar. This is a nice temple to visit when you are around in this area.

Pillayarpati Temple

Kundrakudi Murugan temple was the next in our plan, but, with rains lashing, we would not be able to climb the hillock. We moved on to the next stop - Pillayarpatti temple. Pillayarpatti is around 16 kms from Karaikudi. This place hosts the very ancient and popular rock cut cave shrine of Lord Vinayaga - known as Lord Karpaga Vinayagar. This temple was built by Pandyas and the cave is believed to be carved out in 4th century AD. Other sanctums in the temple include Lingams Thiruveesar, Marudheesar and Senchadeswarar and respective Goddesses, Kathyayini, Laxmi, Saraswathi and Durga. We had a very good dharshan as there was no crowd then. The temple timings are 6 AM to 1 PM and 4 PM to 8.30 PM.

Vairavan Kovil

The driver then took us to another nearby temple - 2 kms from Pillayapatti - Vairavan Kovil. The temple is dedicated to Lord Bhairava. This temple is one of the nine reverent temples for the Chettinad Nagarathars. The temple has beautiful depiction of mythological events as paintings all along the roof. The temple is very well maintained.

Pattamangalam

Next, we were planning to visit Thirukostiyur - one of the popular Divya Desam temples. The driver made a de-tour to take us to Pattamangalam Guru temple and then to Thirukostiyur. Pattamangalam temple is around 9 kms from Vairavan Kovil. The temple is open from 6 AM to 12 PM and 4 PM to 8 PM. This Dhakshinamoorthy temple is a very special one and popular for special poojas.

Thirukostiyur

Thirukoshtiyur is one of the 108 divya desams and the presising deity is Sri Sowmya Narayana Perumal. The temple timings are from 7 am – 12.30pm and 4.30pm-8.30pm. History is that the place where Brahma, Shiva, all devas, Saptha Rishis assembled to plan the death of Asura Hiranyakashipu. As they came as a group and hence Thirukoshtiyur, koshti meaning a group.

The temple is of 3 tiers and Lord Vishnu poses as Nindran (standing posture), Kidanthan (sleeping posture), Aadinan (dancing posture). One has to climb narrow steep steps to reach the top tier on the gopuram to see all 3 levels. Elders and physically challenged people might find it difficult to reach to the top.

This is the place where, Ramanuja was advised by Thirukachi Nambigal about the manthra "Om Namo Narayana" and asked to keep it secret. But Ramanuja felt that sharing this mantra with the public as it should be useful to all of them. He went straight to the temple of Sowmya Narayana perumal and stood on the top of Gopuram and loudly shouted the Mantram. Then, Thirukachi Nambigal understands that it is nature for everyone to benefit and changes. We could not visit the gopuram top because of heavy rains.

We then had breakfast around 9 AM near Thirupathur Shivan temple - Sri Durga Bhavan. The food was quite good - idlies, vadai and dosas.

Thirupathur Shivan Temple

Deity: Shri Thiruthalinathar (Lord Shiva), Goddess Snehavalli

About: This is one of the 276 Paadal Petra Sthalams. This is 6th Shiva Sthalam in Pandiya Nadu.

Timing : 6:00 AM to 12:00 PM, 4:30 PM to 8:30 PM.

Parking: Available near the temple

Route: Easily locatable in the heart of the town of Thirupathur.

Google Maps Code - PNT006

History: This is the temple where Saint Valmiki performed his penance and a Putru was formed around him. Lord Shiva gave him blessings and hence the place is called so. The place is also where Lord Shiva performed his Thandav called Gowri Thandavam.

Piranmalai Shivan Temple

Deity: Shri Kodunkundranathar (Lord Shiva), Goddess Kuyilamudha Nayaki

About: This is one of the 276 Paadal Petra Sthalams. This is 5th Shiva Sthalam in Pandiya Nadu.

Timing : 6:00 AM to 12:00 PM, 4:00 PM to 8:00 PM.

Parking: Available near the temple

Route: Easily locatable in the heart of the town of Piranmalai.

Google Maps Code - PNT005

History: This is the temple is on a small hillock - Piranmalai - which is said to be a part of Mount Meru. The temple between the hills is so beautiful to see and a divine feel. The temple was built by the famous king Paari, who gave his chariot for the climber - flower Mullai. One can see the story being depicted there. The temple is also known for worshipping Lord Bhairava.

After visiting the Piranmalai temple, it was almost 11 AM and we had completed the temples on our list. We decided to go back to the hotel - a good 1:30 hour drive. We had lunch at Hotel Malli - some biryani, sambhar and curd rice plates and shared.

Day-2 Evening

We also did some local shopping of antique vessels, Chettinad snacks at a very famous Sundaram outlet and visited couple of temples before going to the railway station.

We visited the very famous Arulmigu Koppudaiamman Temple in the heart of the town, Ariyakudi Thiruvengadamudayan Swamy Temple and then the famous Mathur Shivan temple - Ainootreeswarar Temple. The Ariyakudi Perumal temple is also known as Then Tirupathi.