Wednesday, September 1, 2021

Beautiful villages of Kodaikanal

After a long break on travel because of COVID, the first trip in COVID era started with Kodaikanal.

Trip Plan

Three of us decided to have workcation in Kodaikanal and started towards the hill station on a Friday.

Members : Karthik, Sathish Raja, Sivakumar
Dates : 27 August - 1 Sept 2021

Trip route

Chennai - Trichy - Dindigul - Kodaikanal - Mannavanur - Kookal - Poombarai - Dolphin Nose - Trichy - Uraiyur - Chennai

Day-1 - Pitstop!

The plan was to drive early morning from Chennai and check-in either in Trichy or Dindigul, work for the day and then proceed to Kodaikanal the following day early morning. We started from Chennai around 4:30 AM. The NH was quite free and we could do a good distance than expected by around 7 AM - closer to Trichy. We stopped at the Ashwin's on the highway for breakfast and had a feast south Indian breakfast. We decided that we can reach Dindigul by the time we need to connect for work and booked a hotel with Wi-Fi and spacious rooms.

We booked Hotel Chenduran Park and checked in around 10:30 AM. The rooms were spacious and decent Wi-Fi connectivity. We worked across the day until 8 PM and then ended the day with a very tasty and homely food in a small vegetarian mess - parottas and dosai varieties.

Day-2 - Kodai entry!

We started around 5 AM from Dindigul on the Saturday morning. Our stay plan was to avoid hotels in the heart of Kodai and stay in a remote place at the far end of Dolphin nose. We stopped for breakfast around 7 AM before climbing the hills. The morning dew and the golden rays made the hill ride a very enjoyable one. First trip after a break and on the hills by the dawn was an amazing feel. We did stop by the famous view points - Manjalaru Dam view point and the Dum Dum rock view point. Having visited Kodai several times and going after more than 5 years was nostalgic and great reminder of past memories. These view points are a great stop to see the plains and dam views on one side and the major hills to ride on the other.





The day plan was to visit the filmy circuit covering the most popular scenic views before doing a check in at Dolphin nose point. However, with COVID guidelines for tourists still on, most of the popular view points were closed completely including the access roads to them. We had no choice but to visit the rural and remote villages of Kodaikanal - which are far beautiful than one can imagine. We did have a plan to visit all of them; however not on Day-1. With these restrictions in place, we decided to finish this remote circuit covering the thick pine forests, Poombarai, Kookal and Mannavanur. 

We climbed down the pine forest enroute and the thick forests challenging any sunlight to enter in; made sure we unpack our winter wears and shoes. We spent quite a bit of time and started towards Mannavanur. We are habituated to reach the far point first and cover inward from thereon.



Poombarai View point - Mannavanur

First destination was Mannavanur - Mannavanur is around 35 kms from Kodai lake and would take around 1.5 hours to reach - the whole route is very scenic and interesting the drive. First we stopped at Poombarai view point - an absolute heavenly view! Trust me, this is one of the best hill villages view one can get! Very colourful village amidst sprawling green gigantic hills around and blessed with blue sky and some clouds! We spent some time in a café nearby sipping a hot lemon tea and enjoying the view!





Mannavanur hosts a research centre for sheep and rabbits and scenic landscape includes the Mannavanur lake and green cover around. One needs to walk 4-5 mins from the parking lot to have a great view of Mannavanur lake; this is a great place to spend time with nature. We walked around and spent close to 30 minutes sitting there and enjoying the nature. Quite a scene!





We then visited the sheep/rabbit research center. Kids may like going around seeing this place.

Kookal

Next, we drove to Kookal - Kookal is around 8 kms from the road connecting Poombarai and Mannavanur. From Kodai lake, first comes Poombarai, then the intersection point - riding right takes one to Kookal and straight road takes you to Mannavanur. Kookal route is very beautiful and need to be driven carefully - steep curves and climb ups/downs. Kookal also hosts a beautiful lake. There is a waterfall that is quite beautiful, but requires an half-day exclusively to go and come back. There are no shops in Kookal for snacking or food. Poombarai is bigger town and has a couple of local hotels.




Poombarai

After spending some time in Kookal, we went to Poombarai. Poombarai is a valley village surrounded by tall mountains on all sides. We had good at a local eatery, very special for parottas and great non-veg food with local flavour. My friends had a great time here :-)


We then started our drive towards our stay. We reached Dolphin nose point parking area after some hiccups in traffic on the narrow roads. We checked in at the most remotest rooms possible in the locality by the edge of the hills. Only drawback at the location is on food - very few food joints and limited options. The weather went below 7-8 degrees and the chillness sunk in along with the darkness. We enjoyed every bit of the chillness after a very long time. We did a night walk around along with dinner and slipped under the rugs.

Day-3 - Dolphin Nose, Waterfalls

Actual plan was a trek to Vellagavi - however there were clouds all around and it cannot be done on 1 day. We decided to just trek till Dolphin nose and return back. Meanwhile, the morning view was a bliss - sunrise by the clouds and hills; and a herd of Indian Bison by the parking area just made it more eventful and memorable.  




The climb down to Dolphin nose point is quite steep on the roots of centuries old trees and rocks. By the time we reached Dolphin nose around 7:30 AM, it started pouring down heavily. We spent some time under the temporary roof of a small shop sipping some lemon soda. As the rain relaxed, we started back to climb up to our rooms. We had some great avocado milkshake and sandwiches - Avocados are popular in Vellagavi and it is brought uphill with ponies.







Vattakanal waterfalls 

We reached back our room in 1 hour and took some break. We had some food like Maggi and walked for 2 kms to the Vattakanal falls. We climbed down the Vattakanal waterfalls to reach some interesting point where we can immerse ourselves for few moments in the bone chilling water. We spent close to an hour in the waterfall area and walked back to the room. Rest of the evening was more into relaxing and chit chatting.



Day-4 - Login!

Monday Morning, we checked out of Dolphin nose area and visited few view points that were open at Kodaikanal like Green valley view point (popularly called Suicide point), Lake view and Fairy falls.







Local sighting

Post that we had nice breakfast at Hotel Astoria and checked in at Hostel - Trippr. This hostel is located quite remotely in Kodaikanal - close to 8 kms away - through bad roads/no roads. One needs a good high clearance vehicle to reach this place. Tata Nexon was powerful and sturdy enough to take us through these roads without a doubt.

Rest 2 days were more of work and early morning walk around the Kodai lake and so on - Day 4 and 5.



Then, Day-6, we started back to plains early morning, reached Trichy around 10 AM, logged in for work, visited few temples in the evening - return back to home.

We all returned safe and secure; and optimistically more trips to follow!

Thursday, March 25, 2021

Stunning beaches of Bakkhali and Gangasagar

About the destination

Bakkhali - one of the remotest destinations of India, a seaside village is in the state of West Bengal. Bakkhali is famous for its beautiful beaches, most of them white sand! They are so remote that reaching from Kolkata takes around 5-6 hours and we used public transport. This involved interesting modes of travel including cab, train, autorickshaws, and totos. The list included boats while returning :-) 

Trip Plan

Our main plan was to visit a wedding of a close friend in Kolkata (adjoining areas). The weekend was sandwiched in the process and a cool plan was laid out. The plan was to visit Gangasagar and Bakkhali. My friend, Sathish had already made it to Gangasagar for the Sagar Mela and was quite comfortable with the route and recommended taking public transport and I obliged.

Members : Karthik, Sathish Raja
Dates : 6, 7 March 2021

Trip route

Kolkata (Sealdah) - Namkhana - Bakkhali - Namkhana - Banuben Jetty - Gangasagar - Kakdwip - Kolkata (Ballygunge)

Day-1

The day started at 5:30 AM from Kalighat (Kolkata) from a hostel stay. We reached Sealdah around 6:15 AM, bought local train tickets to Namkhana - Rs.25 each. Namkhana is connected from Sealdah through the local trains and they operate with only 2 class sitting coaches. There are other options nor a fast train. The train started around 7 AM. We grabbed a couple of snacks (Ghugni and boiled egg) boarding the train. the journey to Namkhana would take around 3:30 hours. People going to Gangasagar shall get down at Kakdwip - which is around 45 mins before Namkhana. The train from Sealdah to Namkhana is the cheapest mode of transport for locals and hence the trains are expected to be crowded. If you opt for this route, do ensure that you are prepared for crowded trains and have taken a seat at Sealdah itself.

Reaching Bakkhali

Namkhana is the last station for local trains; everyone would get down. There are local buses and autorickshaws taking people to Bakkhali and any other small towns/villages en route. The bus stand is 200m from the station and you may take a toto or walk. We took a toto and then took a shared autorickshaw to Bhakkhali - RS.50 per person.

The ride is 27 kms and takes around 45 - 50 mins. We reached Bakkhali around noon and took an auto for looking around for rooms. Though it was a small town, it was quite sunny and, looked at 3-4 options before finalizing on Hotel Inodoy Nirala. We paid Rs.1500 for an AC room. The room was quite spacious and comfortable. Not a great place but still ok in the locality. We walked around and went for lunch pointed by a local driver to Hotel Poritosh. The simple restaurant seems to be very popular in locals and the food was definitely good. My friend, Sathish, enjoyed his seafood and said it was very good too!




The toto driver who helped us select the hotel, offered us a ride around for Rs.300 for 2-3 hours - covering all popular beaches and sunset views. We obliged and started the trip by 3:30 PM.

Sightseeing in Bakkhali

There are few beautiful beaches in and around Bakkhali.
  • Bakkhali main Beach
  • Henry Island and watchtower
  • Lalganj Beach
  • Fraserganj Beach
  • Benfish Harbour
  • Sunset point at Bakkhali
The Bakkhali main beach is easily approachable and one of the clean white sand beaches of Bakkhali. The water was quite a way inside and without waves. We spent few minutes and moved to the rest of the beaches. We saw this beach in the afternoon while we were looking for a resort/room.



Henry Island

Post lunch, our first point was the farthest to see - Henry Island. Henry Island takes around 35 mins for the 7 kms from Bakkhali. The cement roads are very narrow and only narrow vehicles like Totos can go. The Henry Island is a huge fishing community area - well-established and well maintained. There is an entry fee of Rs.50 for the persons and vehicle. There are no shops anywhere after you start from Bakkhali. So, do carry snacks and enough water with you. 

The walk from the small parking area to the stunning beach is quite good too. We went through the mangroves, the muddy areas hosting red crabs, and then through to the stunning beach. The beach was absolutely lovely and a perfect place for a peaceful outing. We spend some time here clicking snaps and walking around randomly. The beach does have not have waves, however, the mild breeze and the vast views are exhilarating.








Lalganj Beach

Lalganj beach is further North in Henry Island and is around 3 km from Henry Island beach. The Lalganj beach was too a very secluded destination and said to be very popular for red crabs in seasons. The beach is quite vast and is a good location to see a remote point of Sunderbans. Seems to be open for tourists to go by boat during some times of the year. After spending some time walking around the scenic beach, our next point was Benfish harbour.




Benfish harbour

The Benfish harbour is a fishing harbour and also shipbuilding and repairing yard. We were fortunate to see a great sunset view here before going to the sunset point of Bakkhali.




Sunset point of Bakkhali - Kargil Beach

Kargil beach is said to be the sunset point of Bakkhali. The beach is visible on a steep ramp put across to stop the sea from taking away land. The locals said that the water has been raising recently and especially during the cyclone Amphan, the beach had devastating effects. The beauty of nature is an example of how great the Kargil beach is and the sunset is a jewel on top of it!




Fraserganj beach

Once we witnessed the sunset, we went to the final point of the evening - Fraserganj beach. The Fraserganj Beach is walkable from the main beach at Bakkhali in a single stretch. This beach has a watchtower, though dilapidated because of erosion and the cyclone in recent years still is quite usable. The views from the top are very nice and that too by dusk!




We then came to the Bakkhali market area (few eateries), bought some local snacks, and reached back the room. We were quite tired from the long travel across the day, relaxed for some time, and hit the bed.

Day-2

Having enquired about the transportation all the way back to Kolkata via Gangasagar the previous night from the reception of the hotel, we had an almost clear plan unless exceptions. We started the day around 5:30 AM and took the first bus out of Bakkhali. It was a cloudy start and reached Namkhana jetty by 6:45 AM. There are two ways to reach Gangasagar.

Ways to reach Gangasagar
  1. From Kakdwip, take a share auto, reach Harwood point for a boat. Take a boat from Harwood point, reach Kochuberia in 20 mins. Then, take a bus from Kochuberia to Gangasagar - 35 kms - 1-hour journey.
  2. From Namkhana bus stand - take a share auto to Namkhana jetty - 1-hour boat ride to Banuben Jetty - Can get a share auto to Gangasagar only if there is crowd, else, need to do some spending for a private vehicle - definitely a costly affair.
The first option is what 95% of the people opt for cost as well as the most frequently operated boats and buses. The train journey from Kakdwip to Namkhana takes 45-60 mins hour too. Since we started from Bakkhali, we decided to take option 2 to cut down 1 hour of our journey time.

The boat jetty had not started the operations when we reached because of heavy fog around 7 AM. The visibility was almost 7m-10m. We waited for some time, one boat came and encouraged our boat to start boat. The journey was quite scary given the fact that the visibility was too low and at one point, there was another boat that came at a good speed perpendicular to our boat, and tactically both of them managed to avoid a clash. Since that moment, the driver reduced the speed and steered along with another boat, and reached the destination quite well.





Gangasagar

To our surprise, hardly only 5 of us were there to go to Gangasagar and were exploited by the local operators - rickshaws/autos/cars. After spending some time bargaining ineffectively, with no alternate options, we paid Rs.300 per person and managed to reach the temple in 25 mins.

We first walked down the road and reached the Gangasagar beach. The beach had fewer waves and no great crowd. The water was not so encourageable to take a bath, though a holy dip is the norm of the divine destination. We did sprinkle water on the head, did prayers, and walked to the temple - the Kapilamuni ashram. The sun was burning bright and we made fast moves, visited the temple, and had breakfast at a local shop.
 
  



 



The food was fresh and delicious, however, robbed for money - Rs.230 per person for 2-3 rotis, dal, and sabji we had. We took a bus to Kochuberia - 1-hour drive and reached Kochuberia jetty. Rs.10 is the ticket to reach the other side in the boat and takes 15 mins. Then, reached the Kakdwip railway station by a share auto, train to Ballygunge, and reached Kolkata by 4 PM.


Definitely, a welcome break from the 4 walls during COVID situations and, glad to be visiting such remote places in India and evidenced the diversity and beauty of nature. A great weekend trip from Kolkata, if you are visiting Kolkata and looking for an offbeat timeout!

Distances
  • Kali ghat – Bhakkali – 118 kms
  • Kali ghat – Kakdwip – 80 kms
  • Namkhana – Bhakkali – 27 kms
  • Kakdwip – Gangasagar – 35 kms
  • Bhakkali – Henry Island – 7 kms