About the Destination
The lesser-known and tourist traveled states of Bihar and Jharkhand was on the anvil for quite a time. The ambiguity of weather, road conditions, clarity on the timeliness of trains and several others had to be factored in our planning. The blog would share some of the experiences you would not in other states right from landing in Patna.
Trip Plan
Trip members: Karthik, Sathish Raja
Trip date: 5, 6 and 7 Oct 2019
Trip Plan : Chennai - Patna - Bodh Gaya - Gaya - Patna - Jasidih - Deoghar - Patna - Nalanda - Rajgir - Patna - Chennai
Day-1 - Gaya, Bodhgaya
Time lost
Early morning flight from Chennai to Patna via Hyderabad (SG) was the best possible connectivity to Patna. We landed around 10:15 AM and when we reached out of the airport, there was a shocker that the booked driver took a different assignment and did not come to the airport; as our mobile was switched off for 2 hours! OMG! What a way to be welcomed? Was not that obvious for a driver to come to the airport to pick someone and the visitor on a flight cannot answer! No, it was not obvious! After several calls and escalations, we got a different cab at 11:40 AM! We almost lost 2 precious hours for the day.
The new driver right away informed me that the roads are bad and would take close to 5 hours to reach Bodhgaya - 115 km from the airport! While we planned our trip, hardly, we thought about such a long duration for this distance and even though whether the driver was fooling us after all the escalations happening around in the morning. The driver took us through Patna city - very crowded and then through the SH via Jahanabad. The roads were absolutely in tatters, added to Dussehra traffic - the clock was running; in due course of discussion with the driver, his information was genuine and he was indeed helping us.
Bodh Gaya
We had lunch by a roadside Dhaba - Pappu Dhaba near Jahanabad. The food was definitely very good and cheap - paneer sabji and rotis. We decided to visit Bodhgaya first - the farther place with the reason that Gaya was temples and would be open at least till 8 PM. We reached Bodhgaya around 16:30. The driver dropped us at a junction surrounded by Buddhist temples from almost every Asian country and around 1 km from the Mahabodhi temple. We took a local Tuk-tuk for Rs.30 for 2 members and got dropped at Mahabodhi temple. The camera is allowed for Rs.100 while no mobiles are allowed - locker rooms are available for no cost.
The Mahabodhi Temple Complex is one of the four holy sites related directly to the life of the Lord Buddha. Bodhgaya temple locations and the sacred Bodhi tree are the locations of the attainment of the Enlightenment of Buddha. The first temple was said to be built by Emperor Asoka in the 3rd century B.C., and the present temple dates from the 5th or 6th centuries. The sacred Bodhi Tree is just by the sides of the main temple surrounded by numerous ancient Votive stupas and the Mucalinda Lake.
The six sacred locations around the complex can be located with the help of the guide. We avoided the guide and went ourselves. We meditated in the main complex and then again by the Bodhi tree. The fatigue and tiredness we had in the travel flew away in seconds by the serene feel in the locality - absolutely divine without any doubts. The most important of the sacred places is the giant Bodhi Tree, a supposed direct descendant of the original Bodhi Tree under which Buddha spent his First Week and had his enlightenment.
Buddha spent the Third Week walking eighteen paces back and forth in an area called Ratnachakrama (the Jewelled Ambulatory), which lies near the wall of the main temple on the other side of the temple. We the footprints of Buddha in this path are marked by decorated 18 steps of footprints.
Overall, we spent around 45 minutes here; though we would love to spend at least a few hours here at the temple. We came out and spent time quickly going around Bodhgaya using a local tuk-tuk for Rs.50 to see the Giant Budha statue and several other country temples around - Bangladesh, Vietnam, Nepal, Cambodia, Tibetian, Japanese, Thai, Bhutan, Sujata stupa and much more. We wished we could stay there for a day and go across all temples; however, for the press of time, we moved on to see only the Giant Buddha statue and Thai temple, and then to Gaya.
Gaya
We had lunch by a roadside Dhaba - Pappu Dhaba near Jahanabad. The food was definitely very good and cheap - paneer sabji and rotis. We decided to visit Bodhgaya first - the farther place with the reason that Gaya was temples and would be open at least till 8 PM. We reached Bodhgaya around 16:30. The driver dropped us at a junction surrounded by Buddhist temples from almost every Asian country and around 1 km from the Mahabodhi temple. We took a local Tuk-tuk for Rs.30 for 2 members and got dropped at Mahabodhi temple. The camera is allowed for Rs.100 while no mobiles are allowed - locker rooms are available for no cost.
The Mahabodhi Temple Complex is one of the four holy sites related directly to the life of the Lord Buddha. Bodhgaya temple locations and the sacred Bodhi tree are the locations of the attainment of the Enlightenment of Buddha. The first temple was said to be built by Emperor Asoka in the 3rd century B.C., and the present temple dates from the 5th or 6th centuries. The sacred Bodhi Tree is just by the sides of the main temple surrounded by numerous ancient Votive stupas and the Mucalinda Lake.
The six sacred locations around the complex can be located with the help of the guide. We avoided the guide and went ourselves. We meditated in the main complex and then again by the Bodhi tree. The fatigue and tiredness we had in the travel flew away in seconds by the serene feel in the locality - absolutely divine without any doubts. The most important of the sacred places is the giant Bodhi Tree, a supposed direct descendant of the original Bodhi Tree under which Buddha spent his First Week and had his enlightenment.
Buddha spent the Third Week walking eighteen paces back and forth in an area called Ratnachakrama (the Jewelled Ambulatory), which lies near the wall of the main temple on the other side of the temple. We the footprints of Buddha in this path are marked by decorated 18 steps of footprints.
Overall, we spent around 45 minutes here; though we would love to spend at least a few hours here at the temple. We came out and spent time quickly going around Bodhgaya using a local tuk-tuk for Rs.50 to see the Giant Budha statue and several other country temples around - Bangladesh, Vietnam, Nepal, Cambodia, Tibetian, Japanese, Thai, Bhutan, Sujata stupa and much more. We wished we could stay there for a day and go across all temples; however, for the press of time, we moved on to see only the Giant Buddha statue and Thai temple, and then to Gaya.
Gaya
We reached Gaya - which was around 17 km from Bodhgaya in 1 hour! We were dropped at a junction, our driver took and boarded us on a share auto to be dropped at one of the 2 important temples of Gaya - Vishnu Pad temple. Gaya is located by the Falgu (Phalgu) river and very popular for Pind dhaan - ceremonies for the departed ones. Falgu river is revered as a part of Vishnu and one of the holiest rivers as per Hindu mythology. Lord Rama is believed to come to Gaya to do pind daan for his father - Dasarath and thus the practice continues.
The Vishnu Pad temple is a place it is believed where Lord Vishnu's footprint is seen. Lord Vishnu sent Gayasur (who did penance to achieve the boon that anyone seeing him would attain Moksha) below the earth to avoid his boon to benefits even faulty ones. Lord Vishnu also promised food for him and hence, happens Pind daan with prayers for the departed to attain Moksha. The footprint on the rock is around 40 cm in length. When we went, the place has almost no visitors; we were fortunate to spend quality time as well as have very good darshan.
We also made a brisk walk to the river ghat - Fulgu ghat. We spent a couple of minutes as it was pitch dark and started to Mangala Gauri temple, the other important place quoted.
Mangala Gauri temple is one of the 18 Maha Sakthi Peet temples. The shrine is dedicated to Sati Devi and representing the body parts - this temple for breast. The temple main sanctum is quite small and only 10-12 members can make way inside. We had a very good darshan in around 20 minutes. We then again took an auto back to the junction, where our driver dropped us.
We took a small detour after crossing Jahanabad towards Fatehpur and reached Patna on better roads by 11:15. I had dinner at the hotel Bansi Vihar - south Indian restaurant. One needs to wait for some time to get a seat. I had Chole Bhatura - it was absolutely fantastic. The following day as well I visited here for dinner - had paper dosa with sambhar and chutney poured in big vessels! They were ok, best outside Tamilnadu!
The Vishnu Pad temple is a place it is believed where Lord Vishnu's footprint is seen. Lord Vishnu sent Gayasur (who did penance to achieve the boon that anyone seeing him would attain Moksha) below the earth to avoid his boon to benefits even faulty ones. Lord Vishnu also promised food for him and hence, happens Pind daan with prayers for the departed to attain Moksha. The footprint on the rock is around 40 cm in length. When we went, the place has almost no visitors; we were fortunate to spend quality time as well as have very good darshan.
We also made a brisk walk to the river ghat - Fulgu ghat. We spent a couple of minutes as it was pitch dark and started to Mangala Gauri temple, the other important place quoted.
Mangala Gauri temple is one of the 18 Maha Sakthi Peet temples. The shrine is dedicated to Sati Devi and representing the body parts - this temple for breast. The temple main sanctum is quite small and only 10-12 members can make way inside. We had a very good darshan in around 20 minutes. We then again took an auto back to the junction, where our driver dropped us.
We took a small detour after crossing Jahanabad towards Fatehpur and reached Patna on better roads by 11:15. I had dinner at the hotel Bansi Vihar - south Indian restaurant. One needs to wait for some time to get a seat. I had Chole Bhatura - it was absolutely fantastic. The following day as well I visited here for dinner - had paper dosa with sambhar and chutney poured in big vessels! They were ok, best outside Tamilnadu!
Train to Jharkhand
We ran to catch our train at 23:55 to Jasidih from Patna. We planned to take an overnight train to Jasidih - to see Deoghar the next day. Patna railway station was colorful as the whole city was!
Day-2 Jharkhand - Deoghar
We reached Jasidih around 4:15 AM. We had booked retiring rooms and it took us 10-15 minutes to get access to our rooms. The room was quite clean and new AC/beds made it look very good. Without any rest, we refreshed and started to Deoghar by share auto.
Deoghar - Baidyanath Dham
We ran to catch our train at 23:55 to Jasidih from Patna. We planned to take an overnight train to Jasidih - to see Deoghar the next day. Patna railway station was colorful as the whole city was!
Day-2 Jharkhand - Deoghar
We reached Jasidih around 4:15 AM. We had booked retiring rooms and it took us 10-15 minutes to get access to our rooms. The room was quite clean and new AC/beds made it look very good. Without any rest, we refreshed and started to Deoghar by share auto.
Deoghar - Baidyanath Dham
Deoghar is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas - Baba Baidyanath Dham. The temple is around 10 km from Jasidih railway station. We reached the temple around 6 AM. The temple is open from 4:00 - 15:30 and 18:00 to 21:00. The time we went, morning puja was going on and there was quite a long queue. Some rude locals were pulling and creating havoc in the crowd! Apart from them, the rest of the crowd was quite manageable and moved fast once the darshan was open. Going closer to the sanctum and entering in, the crowd again was making a big hype by pushing and falling over. It was quite difficult to have a satisfactory darshan, however, managed to.
We then went around other sanctums - one of them is a Sakthi peet - Maa Durga. Other sanctums were Goddess Saraswati, Lakshmi, Durga, Bhakalamukhi, Annapurna, Parvati, few others, and shrines of Lord Ram, Hanuman, Surya, Bhairav, Brahma and Ganesh. We spent around 20 minutes visiting other sanctums before came out.
We had street-side breakfast - hot puris, potato sabji, and jalebi. The plan was to rent a car to visit Basukinath temple and other places around in Deoghar. We had 2 return tickets - one at 2 PM and another at 3:45 PM to reach back Patna. We bargained a car for Rs.1000 to visit Basukinath alone and then added all other possible places for Rs.600.
Basukinath is around 48 km from Deoghar and is seen as a twin temple by locals along with Baidyanath temple. We reached the temple around 8:45 AM. The temple was almost a mimic of the Baidyanath temple. There was no much crowd and we had a pleasant darshan in few minutes. We also went around other sanctums which were almost similar to Baidyanath temple. Overall, we spent around 20-25 minutes here. The roads leading to Basukinath from Baidyanath temple were fantastic.
The next stop was Tapovan - which was around 7 km from Baidyanath temple. This is said to be one of the places - caves where Lord Rama meditated. This is a small hillock absolutely dominated by local touts using monkeys to make money. Beware and avoid Tapovan. One would not miss anything is this is given a miss; however, lose peace because of the local touts! We also one of the largest Solar power fields in India at Jharkand - on the way to Tapovan.
We also visited Naulakha mandir - this is located inside Deoghar and resembles Belur Math of Kolkata. The place hosts Radha-Krishna, however, again money-minded people sitting as Pandas - whom we cleanly ignored. The temple had been constructed by the then queen, whose palace is just opposite to the temple.
It was 11:45 by then and we decided to come back to Jasidih. We took a shared auto and reached back around 12:30 to the retiring rooms. We decided to relax for some time and take the 3:45 PM train to Patna. I had lunch at a local restaurant near the railway station - Agrawal restaurant - one of the best Butter Dal I had with rotis.
Patna Dusshera
We reached Patna by 21:30 and checked in to Hotel Buddha International. These were Oyo rooms, quite clean and very comfortable. The hotel is located just 300m from the Patna railway station and the whole place was heavily decorated with Pandals and massive lighting. We spent the late evening going around for a couple of hours - living in the liveliness of Patna celebrating Dusshera.
Day-3
Patna Sightseeing
We had booked our cab for the day to visit Nalanda and Rajgir before getting dropped at Patna airport for our flight at 5:40 PM. We started the day at 6:15 AM. Before leaving Patna, we planned to visit Ganga ghat in Patna and Takht Sri Patna Sahib (Harmandir Sahib). Takht Sri Patna Sahib is a birthplace for tenth Guru - Guru Gobind Singh. As any Gurudwara, the place was absolutely clean and well maintained. There is parking space around. We spent around 20 minutes here in the Gurudwara.
We then visited the Ganges ghat - around 300m from the Gurudwara - Kangan Ghat. The morning hue was fantastic to see - the mighty Ganges sprawling endlessly - running to the rim. We spent around 15 minutes around and started for the itinerary of the day.
Enroute, as it was Saraswati puja day, most of the restaurants were closed. We located a Dhaba and the aloo parathas were very good. We reached Nalanda around 9 AM.
Nalanda
Nalanda, as the name of the place goes, was once the biggest living city of the world in the 5th century under the Magadha kingdom. Nalanda was globally known as the Buddhist center of academic excellence and also as one of the world's great universities, teaching religion, philosophy, astrophysics, metaphysics, medicine, and much more. Nalanda operated as a global university with professors and students coming from countries like Tibet, Srilanka, China, all across Asia, and some parts of Europe.Shariputra, one of the prime disciples of Buddha, was instrumental in operating the Nalanda university, and the biggest Stupa in Nalanda is built in memory of Shariputra. This stupa is the icon of Nalanda.
The Nalanda university seems to be very advanced from an engineering perspective as well with well-organized lecture halls, individual rooms for students in hostels, cooking area, and well-laid drainage systems. The way how hostels were built demonstrates the scale of students studying in Nalanda.
Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) traveled from China to Nalanda for his eagerness to learn Buddhism and he returned back to China to spread the same. His contribution to literature was the prime evidence of being of Nalanda and helped the place to be excavated. Nalanda was destroyed by Muhammed Bin Bakthiyar Khalji, as he identified no man's land in Bihar and from thereon started the attack against various local forces to become a dominant personality. He was rewarded by his superiors for his deeds and it motivated him to wage intentions on Nalanda as well. The Turks beheaded the monks and destroyed the whole institution.
There is an entry ticket of Rs.40 per person and we also hired a guide for Rs.300. Camera - no fee. Nalanda ruins are open from 9 AM to 5 PM.
Nalanda Archaeological Museum is located just opposite to Nalanda ruins. We visited the same with an entry ticket of Rs.5 per person; open from 9 AM to 5 PM. The museum displays various artifacts discovered from the ruins during excavation including statues of Buddha, earthen potteries, various terracotta figures, semi-precious stones and alike, photographs before, during, and after excavation. We spent around 20 minutes in the small museum.
There is a black Buddha statue around 1 km from the main ruins. This was excavated from one of the temples of Nalanda. The whole place is said to be 10 km by 5 km in area, while the excavated area is only 1 sq.km as of date. We also visited the Black Buddha temple - currently serving as an active temple.
Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) memorial
In and around Deoghar
We had street-side breakfast - hot puris, potato sabji, and jalebi. The plan was to rent a car to visit Basukinath temple and other places around in Deoghar. We had 2 return tickets - one at 2 PM and another at 3:45 PM to reach back Patna. We bargained a car for Rs.1000 to visit Basukinath alone and then added all other possible places for Rs.600.
Basukinath is around 48 km from Deoghar and is seen as a twin temple by locals along with Baidyanath temple. We reached the temple around 8:45 AM. The temple was almost a mimic of the Baidyanath temple. There was no much crowd and we had a pleasant darshan in few minutes. We also went around other sanctums which were almost similar to Baidyanath temple. Overall, we spent around 20-25 minutes here. The roads leading to Basukinath from Baidyanath temple were fantastic.
The next stop was Tapovan - which was around 7 km from Baidyanath temple. This is said to be one of the places - caves where Lord Rama meditated. This is a small hillock absolutely dominated by local touts using monkeys to make money. Beware and avoid Tapovan. One would not miss anything is this is given a miss; however, lose peace because of the local touts! We also one of the largest Solar power fields in India at Jharkand - on the way to Tapovan.
We also visited Naulakha mandir - this is located inside Deoghar and resembles Belur Math of Kolkata. The place hosts Radha-Krishna, however, again money-minded people sitting as Pandas - whom we cleanly ignored. The temple had been constructed by the then queen, whose palace is just opposite to the temple.
It was 11:45 by then and we decided to come back to Jasidih. We took a shared auto and reached back around 12:30 to the retiring rooms. We decided to relax for some time and take the 3:45 PM train to Patna. I had lunch at a local restaurant near the railway station - Agrawal restaurant - one of the best Butter Dal I had with rotis.
Patna Dusshera
We reached Patna by 21:30 and checked in to Hotel Buddha International. These were Oyo rooms, quite clean and very comfortable. The hotel is located just 300m from the Patna railway station and the whole place was heavily decorated with Pandals and massive lighting. We spent the late evening going around for a couple of hours - living in the liveliness of Patna celebrating Dusshera.
Day-3
Patna Sightseeing
We had booked our cab for the day to visit Nalanda and Rajgir before getting dropped at Patna airport for our flight at 5:40 PM. We started the day at 6:15 AM. Before leaving Patna, we planned to visit Ganga ghat in Patna and Takht Sri Patna Sahib (Harmandir Sahib). Takht Sri Patna Sahib is a birthplace for tenth Guru - Guru Gobind Singh. As any Gurudwara, the place was absolutely clean and well maintained. There is parking space around. We spent around 20 minutes here in the Gurudwara.
We then visited the Ganges ghat - around 300m from the Gurudwara - Kangan Ghat. The morning hue was fantastic to see - the mighty Ganges sprawling endlessly - running to the rim. We spent around 15 minutes around and started for the itinerary of the day.
Enroute, as it was Saraswati puja day, most of the restaurants were closed. We located a Dhaba and the aloo parathas were very good. We reached Nalanda around 9 AM.
Nalanda
Nalanda, as the name of the place goes, was once the biggest living city of the world in the 5th century under the Magadha kingdom. Nalanda was globally known as the Buddhist center of academic excellence and also as one of the world's great universities, teaching religion, philosophy, astrophysics, metaphysics, medicine, and much more. Nalanda operated as a global university with professors and students coming from countries like Tibet, Srilanka, China, all across Asia, and some parts of Europe.Shariputra, one of the prime disciples of Buddha, was instrumental in operating the Nalanda university, and the biggest Stupa in Nalanda is built in memory of Shariputra. This stupa is the icon of Nalanda.
The Nalanda university seems to be very advanced from an engineering perspective as well with well-organized lecture halls, individual rooms for students in hostels, cooking area, and well-laid drainage systems. The way how hostels were built demonstrates the scale of students studying in Nalanda.
Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) traveled from China to Nalanda for his eagerness to learn Buddhism and he returned back to China to spread the same. His contribution to literature was the prime evidence of being of Nalanda and helped the place to be excavated. Nalanda was destroyed by Muhammed Bin Bakthiyar Khalji, as he identified no man's land in Bihar and from thereon started the attack against various local forces to become a dominant personality. He was rewarded by his superiors for his deeds and it motivated him to wage intentions on Nalanda as well. The Turks beheaded the monks and destroyed the whole institution.
There is an entry ticket of Rs.40 per person and we also hired a guide for Rs.300. Camera - no fee. Nalanda ruins are open from 9 AM to 5 PM.
Nalanda Archaeological Museum is located just opposite to Nalanda ruins. We visited the same with an entry ticket of Rs.5 per person; open from 9 AM to 5 PM. The museum displays various artifacts discovered from the ruins during excavation including statues of Buddha, earthen potteries, various terracotta figures, semi-precious stones and alike, photographs before, during, and after excavation. We spent around 20 minutes in the small museum.
There is a black Buddha statue around 1 km from the main ruins. This was excavated from one of the temples of Nalanda. The whole place is said to be 10 km by 5 km in area, while the excavated area is only 1 sq.km as of date. We also visited the Black Buddha temple - currently serving as an active temple.
Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) memorial
There is an entry fee of Rs.10 per person. It is open from 8 AM to 5 PM. The Xuanzang memorial has been built in collaboration between Indian and Chinese governments. Xuanzang popularly known as global citizen undertook the great mission of learning and preaching Buddha's principles across the Asian countries. He has personally visited almost all places of the significance of Lord Buddha and instrumental in documenting his learnings and spreading Buddhism. The memorial museum shares information on his trip across the countries and a lot of information on Buddhism with its geographic presence.
We also visited the Jain temples of Kundalpur, there is one new temple and one old temple.
Rajgir
We also visited the Jain temples of Kundalpur, there is one new temple and one old temple.
Rajgir, located around 16 km from Nalanda, was the first capital of the Magadha kingdom and hosts many ruins of the kingdom, spiritual places related to Buddhism and Hinduism. The place also had a lot of references in Mahabharata with Pandavas and Krishna sharing events here.
We first stopped by the Hot Springs of Rajgir known as Brahma Kund. This is a sacred place for Hindus where water from seven different springs (Saptarshi) merge and is notable for its healing effects. There are small water outlets with hot water from the sanctum of each Rishi - Agastya, Atri, Bharadwaj, Gautam, Jamadagni, Vashistha, and Vishwamitra. Finally, these water enter the Brahma Kund where pilgrims take a dip to be healed.
Vishwa Shanti Stupa was the next place we visited. This is one of 80 Stupas across the globe as a monument to inspire peace. The 40m tall Stupa is on top of a hill in Rajgir and the steep hill is accessible only through a ropeway (chair lift - one person at a time). There is a ticket of Rs.80 per person for to and fro journeys. The ropeway operates from 8 AM to 12:15 PM; 2 PM to 4:30 PM. We were touch and go from this time, and we made it back to the parking area before the lunch break.
We started back from Rajgir towards Patna. Though we had some time to visit the ruins of Rajgir - namely Cyclopean walls and Ajatasatru fort, which was mostly dilapidated, we gave it a miss against a race of time. The Dusshera roadblocks and any take diversion were running in our minds to catch our flight back to Chennai.
We had lunch on the way at a local Dhaba and reached the airport earlier than expected.
Distances
- Patna – Bodh Gaya – 111 km (~ 5 hours)
- Patna – Nalanda – 90 km (~ 3 hours)
- Nalanda – Gaya – 75 km (~ 3 hours)
- Gaya – Bodh Gaya – 16 km (~ 1 hour)
- Patna – Gaya – 97 km (115 km by NH)
- Patna – Deoghar – 257 km (~ 5-6 hours by train)
- Deoghar – Jasidih – 9 km (~ 20 minutes by auto)
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