Trip Plan
Trip members: Karthik
Trip date: 14-18 August 2024
Trip Plan : Chennai - Pune - Solapur - Tuljapur - Padharpur - Kolhapur - Panhala - Kolhapur - Pune - Chennai
A very tightly planned trip to visit very prominently history linked temples in South Maharashtra.
On 14th Aug, took the late evening flight from Chennai to Pune and reached Pune by 1 AM. I had booked retiring room at Pune railway station. Took an Ola cab (had to walk a lot and reach 2nd floor for the Ola pickup point - surely a matter of difficulty in Pune airport) to the railway station. Swift check-in and a ok-ok facility, big room and big bathroom - cleanliness was just ok. Never mind and took a short nap for 3 hours.
Distances
- Pune – Solapur – 253 kms – 4:45 hrs
- Solapur – Tuljapur – 46 kms – 1 hr
- Tuljapur – Pandharpur – 113 kms – 2 hrs
- Solapur – Pandharpur – 74 kms – 1:30 hrs
- Pandharpur – Kolhapur – 185 kms – 3:30 hrs
- Solapur – Kolhapur – 238 kms – 4 hrs
- Pune – Kolhapur – 233 kms – 4:45 hrs
My overall plan was to use fast trains as much as possible between major distances and accordingly plan darshan and accommodation; plus not very tightly packed and still achieve all in 2-3 days. I had booked my trains in 3 segments - Pune to Solapur, Pandharpur to Kolhapur and Kolhapur to Pune.
Day-1
The plan for the day was to reach Solapur and visit Siddeshwar temple in Solapur and then drive to Tuljapur, Started the day from retiring room by Pune - Kalaburagi Shatabdi express at 6 AM. Had breakfast in the train and got down at Solapur with no stops in between by 09:15. I had booked a cab via Savaari.com for visiting Tuljapur and then to Pandharpur - for a drop.
Solapur Temple
Visited the Siddeshwar temple first, at Solapur, around 9:30. There was some crowd on that day but was able to visit the main sanctum quickly. The temple is built by Shri Siddharameswar, a devotee of Lord Shiva and subsequently attained Samadhi here as well. The temple is a renowned and revered temple for Lingayats.
Post visiting this temple, we started towards Tuljapur. The highway enabled a cruise mode travel to Tuljapur and reached the temple in 45 mins.
Tulja Bhavani Temple
Tulja Bhavani Temple is dedicated for Goddess Tulja Bhavani, a form of Shakthi representation. The temple was built in 12th century and the whole town is surrounded around the temple. The temple is renowned as Chatrapathi Shivaji frequented to this temple and in fact got blessings from the Goddess for his famous Sword. This Goddess is kuladevatha for many clans of Marathas.
The temple has three different darshans - free darshan and paid ones - for Rs.200 and Rs.500. First I walked down the 150+ steps and reached the temple and got to know that the tickets have to bought outside the temple, where the counter is present. I had to climb back and then bought the Rs.200 dharshan ticket. The waiting time was around 15-20 mins to have the dharshan and it was organised properly. The temple timings are 5:00 am to 11:30 am; 12:30 to 7 pm; 7:30 pm to 9:00 pm.
In about an hours' time, completed the dharshan of main deity as well as all surrounding deities and came out fully entrenched with the blessings. I was hungry and the cab driver took me to a nearby restaurant - Hotel Ashoka and had a very delicious and super heavy North Indian thali.
Reaching Pandharpur
After having the lunch, we started to Pandharpur. Pandharpur is a 2 hour drive and I just dozed off immediately after we started. We reached Pandharpur around 3 PM and checked-in at Shri Pandharinath Lodge. This lodge is 10 mins walkable from the temple and located in prime location surrounded by restaurants, shops and street food. I took rest for around 30 mins, refreshed and decided to take local advice for dharshan.
I was told by the hotel reception by a senior person that Mukha dharshan - a dharshan where we can see the main deity from a distance would take anywhere between 3-5 hours considering the crowd and Padha dharshan (also called sparsha dharshan) - where one can touch and pray to the main deity would take 6-8 hours. So, I decided to start right away and reached the temple.
Pandharpur Vittala Temple
Pandharpur is the home of Lord Vishnu's form of Vitthal. This temple is one of the 108 Abhimana Kshetrams of Lord Vishnu. Lord Vishnu appears here as part of the boon given to the revered devotee - Pundalik. The temple is by the banks of rover Chandrabaga/Bhima. The temple is one of the crowdest temples in India like Tirupati and others.
There are two different dharshans here in this temple - Pada Dharshan and Mukha Dharshan. There is online booking available for these dharshans and one can book and then proceed with ease. However, the day I went, it was a long weekend and subsequent day was Ekadasi. Online booking was not available and had to go for dharshan directly.
Upon reaching the temple, I understood that the crowd for Padha Dharshan (Sparsha dharshan) was standing for 2 kms and could take 8-12 hours! OMG! - I immediately queued in to Mukha Dharshan and started moving. The queue movement was very swift and to many people surprise, I could complete the dharshan in 1 hour!
Other temples @ Pandharpur
Post coming out, had some tea and walked down the street to the riverside and visit couple of temples out there - Pundalik temple and Dwarakadish temple. The weather was so pleasant and made it a very great experience walking around.
Then, hired an auto driver for Rs.100 to visit the popular Vishnu Pad temple, where impressions of Lord Vishnu in the form of Radhakrishna can be seen. The temple is in the river and we walked down by the river water the visit this temple. It is said that this temple would be fully under water during monsoon times.
Having visited all the temples that I wished to see in Pandharpur, enjoyed walking around the crowded streets of the temple and had some street food - fresh and hot piping Sabudana Vadai, Dabeli, Vada pav, Bhajjias. Returned back to the room and took some rest for 1 hour and had some idlies and a dosa for dinner before hitting the bed after a tiresome blessed day of visiting Solapur, Tuljapur and Padharpur in one day!
Day-2
Early morning, was tempted to have one more dharshan of Lord Vittal. My train to Kolhapur was at 10:20 AM.
Pandharpur vibes!
I was in double minds considering the Ekadasi crowd and still wanted to go around and have a feel. I roamed around the temple area and people were saying Mukha dharshan takes 6-8 hours and Pada Dhashan - 12-16 hours! There is no way I can have another dharshan and shed my greed of another dharshan and just prayed from outside. The overall vibes on Ekadasi was amazing with bhajans all around.
I came back to the room, had breakfast at the restaurant in the hotel - misal pav and a dosa; and checked out for the railway station. The hotel person had got me an auto for Rs.70 to the railway station; and took the train to Kolhapur.
Reaching Kolhapur
Reached the Kolhapur railway station - Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj Terminus around 14:15 and took an auto to the hotel. I had booked Hotel Sri Sri executive - a business hotel with small rooms. The hotel is 12-15 mins walk from the temple.
The receptionist told that the temple is open all through the day and I decided to visit the temple immediately. I was aware of how crowded Pandharpur was and not willing to take any change here, charged to the temple right away skipping lunch!
Kolhapur Mahalakshmi Temple
Kolhapur Mahalakshmi Temple is one of the 18 Maha Sakthi Peet temples in India. The temple is open from 5:30 AM till 10 PM. The temple was built in Chalukya dynasty in 7th century and is situated by the banks of river Panchaganga. I reached the temple and saw that there was very good crowd and was told it would take 3 hours to have dharshan. Meanwhile, went to leave the slippers and the person told that he would take us directly in and have direct dharshan for Rs.500 for him.
Seeing the crowd, I obliged and he promised me to give a great dharshan and take money later. He took me through the exit gate and directly guided to the main deity. I had a great dharshan and got a chance to circumambulate the inner prakara of the main deity of Goddess Mahalakshmi. I went around and came back and was allowed stand in front for few mins to have a very satisfactory dharshan.
I went around all the rest of the sanctums within the temple premises, sat for some time and then came out. Met the person outside and paid him with the fullest heart and then decided to have some food.
Kolhapur is famous for street food and had Benne Dosa/Loni dosa at Venkateswara Dosa centre - 10 mins walk from the temple.
The Loni (butter) dosa was delicious and I walked around for the some shopping. Kolhapur is famous for cotton sarees, chudithar materials and of course leather slippers. I did some shopping and returned to room around 5:30 PM.
The evening was a leisure one - completed my agenda of temples for the trip. For the next morning, I was planning to visit Panhala fort - one of the important forts in times of Chatrapathi Shivaji.
Day-3
The serene moment of morning darshan
Early morning, decided to visit the Mahalakshmi temple and went around 5:45 AM. The temple was almost void of crowds - only few hundreds were present and could walk-in through the regular temple path to visit the main deity. I was fortunate to see the first Mangalarathi of the day and an amazing dharshan.
I came out and sat in the main prakarams and spent around 30 mins meditating and getting the blessings of Mahalakshmi Devi - truly a very serene moment.
As I stepped out of the temple, I saw female had set up food counters rapidly, serving hot Thalipeeth and delicious paniyarams (made of rava) - the striking factor was that it had 4-5 accompaniments - pudina, coconut, spicy one, tangy one and a curd based! I had a plate of Thalipeeth and reached the room back at 7 AM.
I had my train to Pune at 13:15 hrs, and booked a cab through Ola for 6 hours to roam around till then from 8:30 AM. I checked out, had a dosa nearby and was waiting for the cab. The Ola driver called and told that this is outstation and cannot be included in the 6 hours plan and gave me an option to go to Panhala for Rs.1500. I felt that was reasonable and obliged for it. Earlier upon my enquiry in the hotel and nearby place, they asked Rs.1800 for a cab for visiting Panhala and coming back to Kolhapur. Deal was made and we started.
Monsoon and Maharashtra are made for each other - full lakes, canals, rivers, beautiful curvy roads and lush green landscape! Enjoyed every bit of ride to Panhala.
Panhala Fort
Panhala fort is around 21 kms from Kolhapur. The specialty of the fort is that this was the first fort that was captured by Shivaji in the quest of building the Maratha empire. Panhala fort fort was built by Raja Bhoja II overlooking the Deccan plateacu - gaining full view of the trades happening between the plateau and the ports of Maharashtra. This was a strategic position of interest to control the trade in the whole region. It also served as an outpost for the Bahamani Sultanate.
Shivaji took over the fort from Bijapur and sooner lost it back to Adil Shah II in few months. The siege was dramatic and Shivaji had to escape with few soldiers; leaving back Baji Prabhu Deshpande and a look alike Siva Kashid. Only later after 10-11 years, Shivaji was able to capture it back. One can notice the statues of Baji Prabhu Deshpande and Siva Kashid in the fort premises.
Panhala fort is a sprawling hilltown even today. One has to go by vehicle to see the different regions of fort. My cab driver was well versed with the locations and more importantly, he was very aware of the knowledge of the fort and history. He helped me visit the different parts of fort and also the history behind it. One gets to see various fortifications, bastions, granaries and stepped wells for the fort.
It took little more than a hour to enjoy the views and also learn the history of the place.
Post completion of the visit, the driver recommended to visit Shri Jyotiba Temple, a very famous local deity and Kuladev for many sects of South Maharashtra. I also had more time and driver offered to visit it with Rs.500 more. I accepted and we travelled to the Jyotiba temple.
Shri Jyotiba Temple
Shri Jyotiba Temple is the form of Lord Shiva, located on a hill top. The temple can reached by climbing down 100+ steps. The temple is very vibrant to see because of 'Gulal'. Gulal - is a pink coloured powder and is scattered all around by the devotees; and revered too.
After having a very good dharshan, planned to return to Kolhapur. The driver dropped me at Hotel Gokul near to the railway station. I had sabudana vada, chaas and then packed my lunch here - roti and sabji before boarding the train.
Memorable train journey - Monsoon magic!
While booking for the train, I was aware of the journey expectations - a great train ride through the beautiful Sahayadris during perfect monsoon season! There was absolutely no disappointment at all, as the route witnessed rains, sunshine and rainbows all along the journey. It was a great experience to see the lush green landscape, hills, valleys, grey and black clouds, intermittent strong winds and rains, so many tunnels, C-shaped and S-shaped curvy tracks - Wow - what an experience!
I thoroughly enjoyed the train journey around Satara region and reached Pune by 8 PM. I had booked my room at Zostel in Viman Nagar. Pune was flooded with water because of rains, and with some struggle got an auto driver!
My flight to Chennai was by 5:30 AM. I refreshed around 3 AM and left to the airport - 2 kms of auto ride from the Zostel. I interacted with few GenZ's during the late night chit chat with them and enjoyed their way of thinking and perspectives on active geo-political issues.
A very well ended trip with utmost satisfaction of enjoying the monsoon time!
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