Tour Members - Karthik, Sathish Raja
Dates - 26 June 2018 to 01 July 2018
Trip route - Lucknow - Bithoor - Kanpur - Lucknow - Naimisharanya - Sitapur - Lucknow - Ayodhya - Allahabad (Prayag) - Varanasi - Chennai
After completing a rather strenuous trip of Kailash, 2 of us reached Lucknow exhausted. We checked in to Hotel Ganga Maiya - we stayed here on the way to Kailash and preferred the same hotel because of the proximity to the city center. We had called the hotel and blocked a room for us and reached there around 6:30 PM.
I had dinner at Hotel Duregemaa Bojnalaya - locally popular for vegetarian food. The Kulcchhas, gravies, dosas were all good and on budget. Lucknow was sizzling hot at 39-40 degree Celsius even in the evenings/early nights (7 - 9 PM). The plan for next day was to trip around Kanpur. We booked car from the reception of the hotel.
Day-1
We started the day by 7 AM from the hotel. The plan was to cover Bithoor, Kanpur and Bithorgarh. Kanpur is 75 kms from Lucknow and is connected by highway. Bithoor is 23 kms from Kanpur. We planned to go to Bithoor first. Bithoor is a small town by the banks of river Ganga and holds lot of historical and spiritual importance. Most importantly, this is the town where Ramayana was written. It is claimed here that Lord Brahma created mankind and also completed the sacred Ashwamedh Yagna. Due to this connect with Lord Brahma, the place came to be known as Brahmavatra and then as Bithoor.
The ghat by the Ganges is called Brahmavatra ghat. This ghat is also known as “the seat of Lord Brahma”. The followers of Lord Brahma pray here the ghat is also has a nail of the horse shoe embedded in the steps of Ghat. It is said that it belongs to the horse of Lord Brahma during the Ashwamendha Yajna. The Ghat is also believed to be the centre of the earth. Few tourists spend time here taking a holy dip in the River Ganga and enjoy boat ride. We spent around 15 minutes here and performed our prayers.
Next, we visited Dhruv Teela. Said Dhruv performed penance at this place and God blessed him to shine as a star. This is around 2 kms from Brahmavatra ghat through very narrow streets of Bithoor. There is a Durga temple as well here.
We then visited Valmiki Ashram. This Ashram is well ahead near the entry into the town of Bithoor from Kanpur. The Ashram hosts 2 events of significance. Valmiki was a thief in this town before he turned into a sage and this is the place where Ramayana was penned by Valmiki. This premises also hosts Luv-Kush temple where Luv and Kush were born. The temple also hosts a sanctum of Hanuman where Luv-Kush imprisoned Hanuman thereby inviting Rama. We spent around 20-25 minutes here and enjoyed the serenity of the place.
It was around 11 AM now. Next destination was Bitargaon (Bheetargaon). This is a small village around 37 kms from Kanpur and hosts ancient Terracotta Brick temples, built during Gupt period in 5th century. Looks like there were several temples of this kind and lost against time. The one that is currently surviving has lost its decorations and filled with sand to retain the structure. The ASI incharge of the site recommended us to visit one more temple near by - Jagannath Temple.
Jagannath Temple - this was around 3 kms from this Terracota temple. This temple hosts Lord Jagannath made on rock and quite tall - around 7 feet on a pedestal. The temple is quite different with dome like structure and is known for a rare phenomenon. The temple stones in the sanctum starts seeping water before the monsoon begins signalling the arrival of monsoon. This helps the villagers in planning their seed sowing activities. The amount of water droplets also gives a measure of how much monsoon rains can be expected.
It was almost 1:30 PM and we returned back to Kanpur. Unfortunately, we could not locate any restaurants/dhabas for lunch anywhere enroute. Even on entering the city of Kanpur, we found it difficult to find restaurants. After lot of search and some googling, we ended up in a restaurant - Red Chillies by 2:30 PM and ordered Dosa. We had Dosas after around 12 days leaving Chennai. We also had samosas and Lassi at Chappan Bhog. They were good.
There are no great places to see in Kanpur apart from couple of modern temples and parks. We first stopped by Kargil park - built in memory of the famous Indo-Pak war where India won Kargil. This park is more for localites to spend their mornings and evenings at leisure. There is an entry ticket of Rs.5 per person. We just spent 5 minutes there and thought of taking some rest. However, it was hot weather.
By 4 PM, we reached Radhe Krishna temple. The security informed that the temple shall be open by 4:30. We waited for some time and clicked some photos. The weather was too hot and we were sweating. By 4:30, we deposited our cameras, mobiles and footwear in the deposit lockers - operated for free and entered the temple. The temple hosts sanctums of Krisha, Ram, Hanuman, Durga. We spent around 10-15 minutes and returned back to the car.
We reached back Lucknow by 7 PM and hit the bed !
Day-2
The plan for the day was to visit Naimisharanya and Sitapur.
Naimisharanya is around 92 kms from Lucknow. We started our day by 6:30 and first destination was Naimisharanya. The driver recommended a stop for snacks/breakfast on the highway - a very popular outlet in the area - Punjabi snacks shop with no name near Sidhauli. They served puri-bhaji, samosas, kachoris, pakoras - onion and methi, aloo pakoras, dabeli and much more. Whatever we tasted, everything were hot sizzling and very yummy by taste.
Naimisharnya is off the NH from Sidhauli - around 45 kms - taking around 1 hour. Naimisharanya is situated on the banks of river Gomathi, a tributary of river Ganges. Naimisharanya is also known as Neemsar or Naimisha. This town is rich with Hindu Mythology and is known as the place where Sri Chakra stopped when Lord Vishnu used it to cut the body of Sati Devi which ended up creating 51 Sakthi Peet temples. Naimisha hosts one of the Sakthi Peet temples as well as several other important Hindu temples.
As we entered Naimisharanya, we located Lalita Devi temple - a Sakthi Peet representing one of the body parts - Heart of Sati Devi. There are many shops and when one enters, many persuade to be guides. We avoided them and entered the temple. There was no much crowd and we had a very pleasant dharshan of Goddess Lalitha Devi. As we came out, a Veda-studying student pressed to be a guide and offered to take money whatever we give. We took him as our guide and he really guided you well and helped us understand several historical events.
We next visited Devpuri Temple. This Devpuri temple has 108 statues of Hindu gods and goddesses. It is built upto 4 to 5 floors big. One can go around and pray to all Hindu gods.
Next, we visited Shri Naimishnath temple. It is one of the Divya Desams, the 108 temples of Vishnu revered by the devotees. The main deity is Lord Devaraja Perumal. This temple is one of the eight Swyambu Kshetras of Lord Vishnu. The temple remains open from morning 6.00 AM to 8.00 PM. We spent around 10 minutes here in the temple.
The Hanuman Garhi temple was next to visit. This temple is of 3 forms - Hanuman came out of Pathala world with Ram and Lakshman relieving them from Airavan and in three postures - standing in Naimisharanya, sitting posture in Ayodhya and sleeping posture in Allahabad. One has to climb around 15-20 steps to visit the main sanctum here.
Vyas Gaddi. This is the place where Ved Vyaas divided the Vedas into 4 main parts and formed Puranas. There is an ancient Banyan Tree which is said to be a blessed place. It is the land of Naimisharanya where Lord Vedavyasa composed 4 Vedas, 6 Shastras and 18 Puranas and preached Samaveda to his beloved disciple-Maharishi Gemini. This also the place where the importance of Sri Sathyanarayana Vratha Katha was set by Vyaasar.
Chakra Thirth - For the need of sages, Lord Brahma sent his Chakra - Manomaya Chakra to identify a spot for them to meditate. The Chakra settled at a deserted place and addressed the Saints that, this place by the banks of river Gomati. It is believed that there is no other holy place, as this one in this entire universe. Chakra-Theertha is said to be the center of the universe. It is said that the large sweet-water spring that marks the location of Chakra-Theertha has no bottom. It is said that by taking bath in Chakra Theertha, sins of 10 earlier generations and 10 future generations will also vanish. We did not take bath here and moved on with the prokshanam of the water.
The guide took us to another temple, which was around 4 kms from the main place. This temple is Rudravath temple. This is the place where Lord Shiva after performing Rudhra Thandavam, entered into river Gamathi to cool himself and entered into penance. Here, when someone pours milk in to the river, the milk goes directly as a straight line and does not dissolve in water like usual. Similarly, the guide demonstrated cut fruits being put in water and few pieces as like the number of people come back from water while rest goes in.
With this, we completed all important temples of Naimisharanya. Next, we travelled to Sitapur. Sitapur is 34 kms from Naimisharanya. We visited the Shyam Nath Temple - a temple for Lord Shiva. There was no crowd here and we just walked in and walked out in few minutes. There are lot of monkeys in this temple.
We then had lunch in a dhaba on the way to Lucknow on the highway. We returned to Lucknow and visited Bara Imambara. Bara means big, and Imambara is a sacred hall. The building includes a mosque - Asfi mosque, the labyrinth - known as bhul-bhulaiya, and bowli, a step well with running water. Two grand gateways welcome the visitors and it leads us to the main building. It is said that there are 1024 ways to reach the terrace but only one to come back. Construction of Bara Imambara was made during famine, and one of the objectives in performing this activity was to provide employment for people in the region. The main complex has a roof has no beams supporting the ceiling and is one of the largest such arched constructions in the world. This part of the building, and often the whole complex, may be referred to as the Bhulbhulaya. The place has 2 people buried inside - the one of the sponsor and the other that of the architect of the building. Our car driver doubled up as guide as well for this place. We spent around 1 hour inside. It was too hot and sultry inside. Entry fee was Rs.25 per person for the main building. Combined ticket for all entries for Labyrinth, Bowli is Rs.50.
We then visited Rumi Darwaza - an arch near to Bara Imambara. It used to mark the entrance to Old Lucknow City. Nearby, is an old clock tower and stepped well, which has been recently renovated and looks in style to attract people in the evenings to kill time.
Later, we checked out from Lucknow and started to Ayodhya. Ayodhya is 150 kms from Lucknow. It takes around 3-4 hours by the highway. On the way, we visited Dewa Sharif. Dewa is 36 kms from Lucknow and hosts this Sufi shrine, which is bright and white. We spent around 10-15 minutes here and started to Ayodhya. There are lot of eateries and sweet shops all around. We did not try any of them.
We took room in Hotel Gupta Guest house. The rooms were quite average and ok. Not a great place to stay. However, if you are looking for one place to stay within Ayodya, this place if ok for a night. There are better hotels in the twin city of Faizabad. We had dinner at Chandra Bhojnalaya. The small eat out serves very tasty food - rotis and paneer sabji. We enjoyed the dinner here - served in small portions of yummy fresh food. There are few eateries with same name as it is quite popular.
Day-3
Morning - by 7 AM we took an auto from the guest house to the all important place of the town - Ram Jhanmabhoomi. We were told that nothing shall be allowed inside apart from money and any small key - like vehicle or room keys. No cameras, mobiles are allowed inside. There are private cloak rooms outside along with the chappal stands for a fee - I guess it was Rs.10. We went through the narrow alleys of Ayodhya and reached the check post for Ram Jhanmabhoomi.
Ram Jhanmabhoomi is one of the most secured religious sites across the world with 4 layers of security checks. Every visitor is physically thoroughly frisked again and again and again 4-5 times to ensure utmost safety. The visitors are cordoned totally in queues through steel pathways on the sides and top and there is no way one can try something different. As we pass on, we enter into ground like area where I guess the old masjid could have been there. Currently, there is a tent like structure where idols of Lord Rama, Sita and Lakshman are kept. There is a possibility that you might miss this as it is small; however, please know that this is that place, of high importance. There are sign boards in Hindi and English telling that you are close to the main area and gets your attention. As you passby, you shall continue by the line and come out closer to where you entered in.
Around this place, there are few other places which might capture your interest. We saw a place named Sita Rasoi - this hosts a small building with a kitchen where Sita Devi was cooking in Ayodhya.
Just in the nearby lane, we located Bharat mahal - a place where Bharat lived. Nearby, we also located Sita Mahal - which is being used as a marriage hall nowadays, there was a marriage going on when we visited it.
Around the corner, there was another one - Rama Raj Gaddi - Rama's palace. Inside, there is a Tulsi madam and a place where it is said Rama used to perform homams. Idols of Lord Rama, Sita nad Lakshman are kept inside and poojas are being made. These places are all across the lanes between Ram Jhanmabhoomi and Kanak Bhavan.
Kanak Bhavan is a very beautiful palace - gifted by Ram’s step-mother Kaikeyi to him and his consort Sita as a marriage gift. This has been reconstructed and renovated quite a number of times. The current palace is quite cosy and grand - hosting the Lord Rama's temple. Everyone visits this place when they are in Ayodhya and is a must to visit. There are three pairs of idols kept in this temple - each from different yuga.
We started to walk towards Hanuman Garhi and located Chakravarti Mahraj Dashrath Mahal. This place is guessed to be thought were Mahraj Dashrath and family was believed to live in. Currently, it is all about a Ram temple and crowd. The place houses a temple, which depicts Ram, Sita, Lakshmana, Bharat and Shatrughan as the chief deities.
Hanuman Garhi is one of the most popular religious shrines in Ayodhya. There are close to 70 steps to climb and see the main sanctum. The main diety of Lord Hanuman is seen with Mata Anjani with infant Hanuman in her lap - and this is a cave temple. It is believed that Hanuman resided here at one point of time to safeguard the place. We spent around 10 minutes in the temple.
We then had breakfast at Nattukottai Chattram - hot idlies, sambhar and chutney. We had idlies after 2 weeks and were very crazy to have them. We thoroughly felt satisfied for this breakfast and we were also told about 2 places to visit - one being the Ammaji mandir and the place where structure for building the Ram temple are getting ready.
Next stop was the famous Ammaji mandir - one of 108 Divya desams of Lord Vishnu. This temple hosts Sri Rama avatar of Lord Vishnu. This Divyadesam is said to be one among the 7 Mukthi Kshetrams. The Thaayar of this divyadesam is Goddess Seetha. The temple was closed when we went around 9:30 and opened around 10 AM. We spent around 10-15 minutes in the temple.
Next, we visited Shri Ram Jhanmabhoomi Nyas Workshop. This is were all required items are being prepared for building the Ram temple. The ornamental pillars and beams are almost ready to build the main temple. One can find final work happening here and also a model of the temple to be built is available to see. There is also a map which depicts all the routes Ram traveled - making the epic look more of history and facts.
We then visited Bada Hanuman temple - where there are exhibits of various events of Rama avathar.
Our final point to see at Ayodhya was Nageshwarnath Temple by the banks of Sarayu river. Banks of Sarayu river is the place where Rama is believed to have attained Mukthi - the final place where the Rama avathaar ended. Nageswarnath temple was built by King Kush - son of Lord Rama. King Kush built this temple in remembrance of a Nag Kanya who worshipped Lord Shiva.
We then started our journey towards Allahabad. Enroute, we located a place called Bharath Kund at Nandigram based on the input from a person at Nattukottai Chathram. This place is around 15 kms from Ayodhya enroute Allahabad - 500m from the NH. This is believed to be the site where Bharat, ruled Ayodhya for a period of 14 years until Lord Rama came back. Bharath also performed tapasya at this place for Rama's return from exile and ruled the kingdom on Lord Rama’s behalf.
We went to Allahabad via Prathapgarh. Roads were okay until Prathapgarh. We crossed Prathapgarh around 1 PM and the couple of restaurants we located did not have parking space. We thought of continuing and having lunch on some NH dhaba - which was a wrong decision. The road from Prathapgarh to Allahabad has been totally torn off and new NH is being laid. It was such a surprise that the authorities did not mind tearing off the whole road. Normally, one side shall be constructed and all traffic shall be sent on other side. Here, it was just a shocker. As the NH was torn off and full of dust, there were no shops or dhabas for almost 40 kms. Around 3 PM, when some good roads appeared, we located a Dhaba and had late lunch. As usual, the food was quite good.
We reached Allahabad by 4 PM and checked in hotel Platinum Inn near the High court. This is pretty decent accommodation in heart of Allahabad. The rooms are typical OYO rooms. Bathroom fittings were sort of put to be in place. No complaints. Location is very good - autorickshaws available always and one of the best restaurants - Dewsis is in the basement and serves food until 3 AM.
After refreshing, we took an autorickshaw and reached Sangam. We went around the Allahabad fort from outside and visited couple of temples. It was around 5 PM that we went to Hanuman Garhi - Lord Hanuman is lying posture. This is the third posture of Lord Hanuman across Naimisharanya, Ayodhya and Allahabad.
Then, we visited Shri Akshayavat temple. Akshayavat resembles the banyan tree which shall survive the world's end. Patalpuri Temple and Akshaya Vat, both are located inside the Allahabad Fort. Patalpuri Temple, the underground temple is also one of the oldest temples in India. One can feel a lot of energy on entering this temple below ground level. We spent few minutes inside and enjoyed the energy levels.
We then came out and sat by the banks of Ganga to be prepared to witness Ganga Aarthi. The aarthi begun by 6:30 and went for 30 minutes. We witnessed the Ganga aarthi from close proximity - which included singing bhajans and performing the pujas.
After that, we took and auto and went to Alopi Devi temple. This temple is located around 2 kms from Triveni Sangam. This temple is peculiar in that there is no statue of any deity in this temple, rather, there is a wooden carriage or 'doli' which is worshipped. When we went, aarthi was being performed and it was such a divine feel. This temple is one of the 51 Sakthi Peets - with the last part of Sati Devi falling here. We spent around 20 minutes in the temple.
We came out and had some local chat items - pani pooris and papdi chat - quite different from what we get in Chennai and we definitely enjoyed it. I, then returned to the hotel room by auto and had dinner from Hotel Dewsis - I had Paneer Manjurian and then plain dosa. The paneer manjurian was excellent - right mix of spices and salt. Next day, we planned to goto Triveni Sangam and then start to Varanasi.
Day-4
By 7 AM, we started to Triveni Sangam. As we could not get an auto, we booked Ola cab and reached Sangam. We were surrounded by many boatmen and middlemen for taking us to Triveni Sangam and offering pujas. The offers started from 2000 rupees. We laughed at it started walking by the river banks. Few continued bargaining and few left us thinking we will not pay them that much. It is important we don't show off affordability in front of them. After few minutes of walk, one boatsman offered for Rs.300 - no sharing boat for 2 of us. We could have still bargained for Rs.100 per person however, it was becoming hot as well as we were losing time. As we closed the deal, a middleman came and took Rs.200 and walked off and the boatman ended up with frown face of getting Rs.100 for the trip. It was pathetic to see the intervention of middlemen. The boatman asked Rs.50 more and we obliged as we were witnessing what happened.
In 10-15 minutes of boating against the flow of water, we reached the Triveni Sangam. The boatman told that we need to pay Rs.50 for bathing. At the sangam, they tie few boats together and help us get into running water with 4 feet depth to take a dip in the holy water. We are charged Rs.50 per head for it and one needs to oblige. Meanwhile, there are Ganga pujaris on the boat who give you milk and coconut to offer when you are taking the holy dip and lure you into compounded expenses, that you cant imagine. Having seen these sort of luring activities at many places, we were cautious and avoided getting into it. Same time, we same a father and son get lured into this by using the given milk and coconuts and ended up paying Rs.200 for it; followed by a puja for Rs.500 and much more ... ended up totally, by paying Rs.1800 in a period of 2 minutes, by the time of we changing our clothes !!! Be aware and Beware ! You might be interested to do the spiritual practices, but, it comes at a cost that one can't imagine ! Be ready to spend !
We returned back to the shores by 8:45 AM and took an auto for a renowned restaurant for breakfast - Hotel Sagar Ratna; only to know is opens around 10 AM. Looks like most of the restaurants open only by 11 AM in Allahabad. Even the road side eateries had only bun and tea ! After the river bath, we were so hungry and ordered food at the hotel we stayed. Breakfast did not arrive for 50 minutes and we cancelled it too !
We then booked a Ola service to Varanasi. We debated on visited Sitamarhi - place where Sita Devi entered into Earth and Vindhyachal - one of the Sakthi Peets as per locals. However, for the weather and our plans to cover places in Varanasi, we decided to visit Sitamarhi and reach Varanasi. We informed the driver that we have to have breakfast and he also said Hotel Sagar Ratna would be open. We reached and this time, it did not disappoint us - we were the first customers of the day at 10 AM. We order idlies, vada, dosa and coffee. On some other day, the food would have been average; but for the hunger and missing S.I food, this was great. The flavours were more of Karnataka flavoured Sambhar and chutneys - 3 varieties.
Sitamarhi - is 55 kms from Allahabad enroute Varanasi. For someone to locate this in Google maps, you need to search as "Sita Samahit Sthal Sitamarhi". Else, it leads you to Bihar ! We reached here by 11:45. The whole place is converted like a proper tourist spot and lot of small shops all around. The place looked like museum and was named Sita memorial ! It was quite shocking to see and there was lot of crowd when compared to other temples we had been visiting. Then, there was small note leading to steps mentioned as real place of Sita entering under the ground to end the avatar. The place where Sita was swallowed into earth when she willed it so is photographed and put on display, while she was living in the ashram of Saint Valmiki in the forest of Sitamarhi. We spent around 20 minutes here and left.
We started to Varanasi. The NH mostly is on construction and can max drive at 60 kms/hr speed. The driver was hungry and stopped on the NH - 30 kms before Varanasi for food in a Dhaba - Basera Dhaba. We had lassi there - which was quite good. We reached Varanasi by 3 PM. We had booked our stay at Nattukottai Chatram - charging Rs.400 per room. 2-3 people can be accommodated in a room which has bathroom and toilets within. They also serve proper local south Indian food - breakfast, lunch and dinner on booking basis. The most important factor for us to book this was the proximity it has got to the Kashi Vishwanth temple and Dashashwamedh Ghat.
We planned to visit Vyasa Kasi first. We took an auto for Rs.300 to visit Vyasa Kasi and return back to Dashashwamedh Ghat. Vyasa Kasi temple is around 7 kms from Dashashwamedh Ghat and is located inside the Ramnagar fort. This is on the east bank of Ganga river while all the ghats are on the western bank of the river. Ramnagar Fort is a sandstone structure hosting a museum with things used during the period ruled by Rajah of Banaras. The entrance ticket is Rs.50 per person and no photography allowed inside the museum. Photos are allowed outside the museum on the fort and by the banks and temples. The museum displays the cars, chariots, weapons - spears to knifes to swords to guns, dresses, coins, ornaments, palanquins and much more across 3 buildings in 2 floors. The place can be maintained much better as most of the displays and walkways were very dusty. We spent around 20 minutes on the museums and then reached out the the Vyasa Kasi temple.
Vyasa Kasi temple was built by Vyasar as he was asked to leave Kasi by Lord Vishwanath because of his action of cursing Kasi natives for not giving alms for him. This temple is of high significance when visiting Varanasi. We spent around 10 minutes here in the temple and ghats. Evening times are nice from here.
We had some lemon juice to beat down the heat and asked the auto driver to take us to Assi ghat. Assi Ghat is the southernmost ghat in Varanasi and the last ghat of Varanasi. Visitors can go for boat rides here. There are lot of popular restaurants and eateries at Assi ghat.
We then got dropped by auto in the junction near Dashashwamedh Ghat around 5:30. We planned to have local snacks with Varanasi being very famous for roadside eateries - we tried tamatar chat, samosas, paneer fry, lassi. We decided to roam around the narrow streets of Varanasi around Lord Vishwanath temple before Ganga Aarthi. The narrow lanes of Kasi are fun to walk for all the small shops selling different things and people all around walking to temples and local work. We stopped by at Blue Lassi, read about them in Internet and they serve around 100 varieties of lassi. We had couple of them and they were quite nice. There are many other outlets who serve such good lassi. We did not taste anything special apart from the flavours they offer.
We reached Manikarnika ghat. Manikarnika ghat is considered one of the oldest and holiest of the 84 ghats of Varanasi, dating back to 5th century. It is believed that cremation at this ghat leads the soul to salvation. We spent few minutes here observing how things unfold. There is a continuous inflow of dead bodies and at any given time, atleast 6-8 dead bodies are being cremated. One does not feel scared or negativity when seeing this unlike other places. The holiness of the place can be felt by just standing there.
By then, it was around 6 PM and we were approached by a boatman to take us into Ganges and see the Ganga Aarthi from the river. He offered us to take us for Rs.500. We bargained for Rs.200 and closed the deal for Rs.300 for 1 hour - keeping us on the boat and view the Ganga Aarthi across Dashashwamedh Ghat and Rajendra Prasad Ghat. The Ganga Aarthi is performed almost on all ghats of Varanasi, of the 84 ghats spread across for 7 kms. These 2 ghats celebrate it with grandeur - lights and colours.
We boarded the board and the boatmen rowed us across the already stationed boats and took us to as possible close proximity to enjoy the evening. The event unfolded by 7 PM and went on till 8 PM. We enjoyed the grand celebration of thanking River Ganga - which is a daily event by the banks of Varanasi to thank and praise Ganga for being perennial and blessing the city to flourish. The event is a major attraction for all kinds of tourists from being religiously blessed to enjoy the colours and vibrant nature of how is is done.
By 8 PM, we reached back Manikarnika ghat and decided to have dharshan of few important temples - Kasi Vishwanath temple, Kasi Vishalakshi temple, Tundee Ganapathi and Goddess Annapurna. We first decided to visit Kasi Vishalakshi temple as, post Ganga Aarthi, some crowd would have been to Kasi Vishwanath temple. We were correct and the Kasi Vishalakshi temple was not crowded.
The Vishalakshi Temple is one of the prominent Shakthi Peet temples. It is one of the 18 Maha Shakthi Peet temples depicting the earrings of Sati Devi. Vishalakshi is the deity & Kalbhairava, who is believed to be the protector of Kashi is her Bhairava. The temple is situated near to Manikarnika ghat. The temple is very small as the Goddess can be seen from the streets in proximity. We had a very pleasant and peaceful dharshan of the Goddess. There were hardly 10 people in the temple when we went and enjoyed the moments with bliss.
Kashi Vishwanath temple is is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas and one of the holiest Shiva temples in the world. It has been destroyed and re-constructed a number of times in history. The temple complex consists of a series of smaller shrines, located in a small lane called the Vishwanatha Galli, near the river. The linga of the main deity housed in a silver altar. There are small temples for sactums for Kaalbhairav, Muruga, 3 more Linga sanctums, Vishnu, Vinayaka and Saneeswaran in the complex. One has to deposit all electronic gadgets - camera, mobiles and bags at the lockers in shops all across the lanes. There are multiple security checks before entering the temple. There are 4 entrances to the temple, please note which entrance you used and make sure you come back to it; else, you could get lost in narrow lanes. It took around 15 minutes of waiting time to enter the temple as some aarthi was going on and 15-20 minutes to complete the dharshan and come out.
When one enters the Kashi Vishwanath temple - there are 2 important spots one should not miss. First one is Dundi Ganapathi - Lord Ganesha. It is important that one worships Lord Ganesha before praying to Kashi Vishwanath. It is said Dundi Ganapathi was the entrance for Lord Shiva to enter Kasi. None can miss this while entering the main temple through Gate-2.
Annapurna Devi Mandir is one of the most famous temples in the holy city of Varanasi. Belief is that Mata Parvati offered food by her own hands to Lord Shiva and then made a kitchen in Varanasi for her devotees. This is depicted as Annapurna Devi temple. This is close the premises of Kashi Vishwanath temple - less than 50m. One cannot miss this temple while entering via Gate-2.
Later, we had food in local eateries and had a pleasant sleep with fullest satisfaction of visiting the lanes of Kasi, ghats of Kasi the temples of Kasi.
Day - 5
We started the day by 7 AM and walked towards Dashashwamedh Ghat to perform the holy bath of Ganges. We were approached by a boatman to drive us to the other side of the river as this side was quite slushy. We bargained for Rs.100 per person - 2 of us - Rs.200 to take a bath - to and fro by the river of Ganges. We spent around 15-20 minutes in the river and came back. The depth of water where we got down by around 4 feet and water was quite good.
We reached back the banks by 8 AM and went for one more dharshan to Kashi Vishwanath temple. The temple had a long queue this time as it was peak hours of morning and some VIPs were also visiting. We had to wait for almost 45 minutes to have dharshan. Then, we got our turns in the crowd and had a good dharshan again.
We returned back to Nattukottai Chatram to have breakfast - pongal, idlies, sambhar and chutney. Post breakfast, our plan was to hire an auto (same driver that we used to goto Vyasa Kasi) to visit few local temples in Kasi and then Sarnath. We visited 5 temples - Sankat Mochan temple, Tridev temple, Aadishakthi Durga temple, Tulsi Manas temple and local temple by the lanes for Goddess Gauri. Sankat Mochan temple is one of the locally popular temples for Lord Hanuman - it was quite crowded. Camera and mobile phones are not allowed in this temple. We spent around 10 minutes. We skipped the long queue and still where able to have very good dharshan from outside the main sanctum.
Next, we visited Tridev temple. The temple is located near Tulsi Manas Temple in the narrow lanes of Kasi. The shrine is dedicated to three dieties; Lord Hanuman , Sati Devi, and Khatu Ji Maharaj (Khatu Shayam - manifestation of son of Ghatotkacha in Rajasthan). This is a modern day temple built of marble and decorative walls and ceilings. We spent around 5-10 minutes here.
The Tulsi Manas mandir - in remembrance of Tulsidas, who translated Ramayana from Sanskrit (written by Valmiki) to Hindi dialects, called Ramcharitmanas. The temple, made of marble, hosts various art work relating to Ramayana events. It is located at Durgakund very close to the Durga Temple and around 700m from the Sankat Mochan temple.
Adi Sakthi Durga temple is nearby Tulsi Manas mandir. This red-coloured temple, is one of the most famous local temples, where it is believed that Goddess to be in Suyambu form. There is pond nearby the temple and called Durga Kund. We spent around 10-15 minutes in this temple.
We then set our directions towards Sarnath. Sarnath is around 13 kms from Varanasi. The route is half-way through very crowded roads of Varanasi and rest of a highway. As you enter Sarnath, the roads are very broad and very clean. The auto driver first stopped by the Thai Buddha Vihar in Sarnath. This is a modern day temple dedicated to Buddha. The gardens and the temple are well maintained. This temple hosts a tall statue of Buddha. This is one of the main attractions of Sarnath. It is 80 ft high and is India's tallest standing statue of Lord Buddha. It is said it took around 14 years to erect this statue. It is made of sandstone with joint efforts between India and Thailand. We went around and spent around 20 minutes here. The temple is open from 7 AM to 6 PM in summer and 7:30 AM to 5 PM in winter.
We then were taken into an art emporium were sarees were being sold; though we did not have any intention to buy anything, the air conditioning was so good relieving us for some time from the horrid weather outside. We then demanded the driver to take us to the ASI site. Sarnath Excavated Site hosts a bunch of interesting historical sites - The Dhamekha Stupa, Ashoka Pillar, cluster of stupas, many Buddhist monasteries and remains of the same. Entrance ticket is Rs.15 per person for the site and Rs.5 for the Sarnath Museum.
The Dhamekha Stupa - this is the spot where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. Dhamekha seems to be a distorted form of Dharma Chakra which means turning the wheel of the Dharma. The original stupa was constructed by Ashoka. Many dignitaries of Buddhist countries visit this place as this is treated as a very sacred place.
The Ashoka pillar is not located in it's original location as it was broken during Turk and Islamic invasions. Now the Lion capital (National Emblem of Govt. of India) is displayed at the Archeological museum at Sarnath as a wheel with 24 spokes. It has four back-to-back Indian lion; below this are representations of a lion, an elephant, horse and the bull.
The Sarnath museum is also important to see; as this is the place where the Ashoka chakra is kept and important part of Ashoka pillar which is Indian Government emblem is out for display. Cameras, mobile, bags are not allowed inside the museum and has lockers for free. Entrance ticket for the museum is Rs.5 for Indians. The air conditioned museum hosts a rich collection of sculptures and items used in Sarnath when Buddha was around.
Shri Digambar Jain temple at Sarnath is located next to the ASI site. This temple is dedicated to Tirthankara Parashwanath. It has a thin pointed golden tomb structure.
We then returned back to Varanasi and took some rest in the smelting heat. We did have the locally popular Dandayee and thoroughly enjoyed it!
Around 5 PM, we took an auto and visited Kal Bhairav temple, which is around 1.5 kms from Dashashwamedh Ghat. This is one of the most ancient temple of Varanasi. The open timings for this temple is 5:00 am to 1:30 pm and 4:30 pm to 9:30 pm. Devotees offer flowers and liquor at this temple as offerings. Lord Shiva said that Kaal Bhairav will forever be in Kashi in order to remove sins of the disciples. In the fight of power to show, Lord Shiva created Kaal Bhairav as a light pillar, Kaal Bhairav plucked one the heads of Lord Brahma with anger and reached Kasi to get away from the sin. This place is famed as the Kapal Mochan Teerth.
After the dharshan, we walked across several ghats of Varanasi and enjoyed the evening.
Day-5
We had direct flight from Varanasi to Chennai by 9 AM. The Varanasi airport is around 32 kms from the town and takes around 1 hour in the early morning. Most of the roads go through the town and would consume more time in the day time. If you need to travel to airport, do plan your travel accordingly. The airport is quite small and has few eateries. We were back to Chennai by noon after a trip were we covered everything that we planned!
Dates - 26 June 2018 to 01 July 2018
Trip route - Lucknow - Bithoor - Kanpur - Lucknow - Naimisharanya - Sitapur - Lucknow - Ayodhya - Allahabad (Prayag) - Varanasi - Chennai
- Naimisharanya – Lucknow – 92 kms
- Naimisharanya – Kanpur – 150 kms
- Lucknow – Kanpur – 75 kms
- Lucknow – Bithoor – 105 kms
- Bithoor – Kanpur – 23 kms
- Lucknow – Ayodhya – 150 kms
- Ayodhya – Allahabad – 168 kms
- Allahabad – Varanasi – 121 kms
- Varanasi – Sarnath – 11 kms
After completing a rather strenuous trip of Kailash, 2 of us reached Lucknow exhausted. We checked in to Hotel Ganga Maiya - we stayed here on the way to Kailash and preferred the same hotel because of the proximity to the city center. We had called the hotel and blocked a room for us and reached there around 6:30 PM.
I had dinner at Hotel Duregemaa Bojnalaya - locally popular for vegetarian food. The Kulcchhas, gravies, dosas were all good and on budget. Lucknow was sizzling hot at 39-40 degree Celsius even in the evenings/early nights (7 - 9 PM). The plan for next day was to trip around Kanpur. We booked car from the reception of the hotel.
Day-1
We started the day by 7 AM from the hotel. The plan was to cover Bithoor, Kanpur and Bithorgarh. Kanpur is 75 kms from Lucknow and is connected by highway. Bithoor is 23 kms from Kanpur. We planned to go to Bithoor first. Bithoor is a small town by the banks of river Ganga and holds lot of historical and spiritual importance. Most importantly, this is the town where Ramayana was written. It is claimed here that Lord Brahma created mankind and also completed the sacred Ashwamedh Yagna. Due to this connect with Lord Brahma, the place came to be known as Brahmavatra and then as Bithoor.
The ghat by the Ganges is called Brahmavatra ghat. This ghat is also known as “the seat of Lord Brahma”. The followers of Lord Brahma pray here the ghat is also has a nail of the horse shoe embedded in the steps of Ghat. It is said that it belongs to the horse of Lord Brahma during the Ashwamendha Yajna. The Ghat is also believed to be the centre of the earth. Few tourists spend time here taking a holy dip in the River Ganga and enjoy boat ride. We spent around 15 minutes here and performed our prayers.
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| Brahmavaht Ghat |
Next, we visited Dhruv Teela. Said Dhruv performed penance at this place and God blessed him to shine as a star. This is around 2 kms from Brahmavatra ghat through very narrow streets of Bithoor. There is a Durga temple as well here.
We then visited Valmiki Ashram. This Ashram is well ahead near the entry into the town of Bithoor from Kanpur. The Ashram hosts 2 events of significance. Valmiki was a thief in this town before he turned into a sage and this is the place where Ramayana was penned by Valmiki. This premises also hosts Luv-Kush temple where Luv and Kush were born. The temple also hosts a sanctum of Hanuman where Luv-Kush imprisoned Hanuman thereby inviting Rama. We spent around 20-25 minutes here and enjoyed the serenity of the place.
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| Valmiki Ashram |
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| Luv-Kush Temple ... |
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| Terracotta Brick temples @ Bhitargaon... |
Jagannath Temple - this was around 3 kms from this Terracota temple. This temple hosts Lord Jagannath made on rock and quite tall - around 7 feet on a pedestal. The temple is quite different with dome like structure and is known for a rare phenomenon. The temple stones in the sanctum starts seeping water before the monsoon begins signalling the arrival of monsoon. This helps the villagers in planning their seed sowing activities. The amount of water droplets also gives a measure of how much monsoon rains can be expected.
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| Jagannath Temple @ Bhitargaon ... |
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| The roof where water seeps inside the sanctum to announce monsoon arrival ..... |
There are no great places to see in Kanpur apart from couple of modern temples and parks. We first stopped by Kargil park - built in memory of the famous Indo-Pak war where India won Kargil. This park is more for localites to spend their mornings and evenings at leisure. There is an entry ticket of Rs.5 per person. We just spent 5 minutes there and thought of taking some rest. However, it was hot weather.
By 4 PM, we reached Radhe Krishna temple. The security informed that the temple shall be open by 4:30. We waited for some time and clicked some photos. The weather was too hot and we were sweating. By 4:30, we deposited our cameras, mobiles and footwear in the deposit lockers - operated for free and entered the temple. The temple hosts sanctums of Krisha, Ram, Hanuman, Durga. We spent around 10-15 minutes and returned back to the car.
We reached back Lucknow by 7 PM and hit the bed !
Day-2
The plan for the day was to visit Naimisharanya and Sitapur.
Naimisharanya is around 92 kms from Lucknow. We started our day by 6:30 and first destination was Naimisharanya. The driver recommended a stop for snacks/breakfast on the highway - a very popular outlet in the area - Punjabi snacks shop with no name near Sidhauli. They served puri-bhaji, samosas, kachoris, pakoras - onion and methi, aloo pakoras, dabeli and much more. Whatever we tasted, everything were hot sizzling and very yummy by taste.
Naimisharnya is off the NH from Sidhauli - around 45 kms - taking around 1 hour. Naimisharanya is situated on the banks of river Gomathi, a tributary of river Ganges. Naimisharanya is also known as Neemsar or Naimisha. This town is rich with Hindu Mythology and is known as the place where Sri Chakra stopped when Lord Vishnu used it to cut the body of Sati Devi which ended up creating 51 Sakthi Peet temples. Naimisha hosts one of the Sakthi Peet temples as well as several other important Hindu temples.
As we entered Naimisharanya, we located Lalita Devi temple - a Sakthi Peet representing one of the body parts - Heart of Sati Devi. There are many shops and when one enters, many persuade to be guides. We avoided them and entered the temple. There was no much crowd and we had a very pleasant dharshan of Goddess Lalitha Devi. As we came out, a Veda-studying student pressed to be a guide and offered to take money whatever we give. We took him as our guide and he really guided you well and helped us understand several historical events.
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| Lalita Devi temple |
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| Lalita Devi temple |
We next visited Devpuri Temple. This Devpuri temple has 108 statues of Hindu gods and goddesses. It is built upto 4 to 5 floors big. One can go around and pray to all Hindu gods.
Next, we visited Shri Naimishnath temple. It is one of the Divya Desams, the 108 temples of Vishnu revered by the devotees. The main deity is Lord Devaraja Perumal. This temple is one of the eight Swyambu Kshetras of Lord Vishnu. The temple remains open from morning 6.00 AM to 8.00 PM. We spent around 10 minutes here in the temple.
The Hanuman Garhi temple was next to visit. This temple is of 3 forms - Hanuman came out of Pathala world with Ram and Lakshman relieving them from Airavan and in three postures - standing in Naimisharanya, sitting posture in Ayodhya and sleeping posture in Allahabad. One has to climb around 15-20 steps to visit the main sanctum here.
Vyas Gaddi. This is the place where Ved Vyaas divided the Vedas into 4 main parts and formed Puranas. There is an ancient Banyan Tree which is said to be a blessed place. It is the land of Naimisharanya where Lord Vedavyasa composed 4 Vedas, 6 Shastras and 18 Puranas and preached Samaveda to his beloved disciple-Maharishi Gemini. This also the place where the importance of Sri Sathyanarayana Vratha Katha was set by Vyaasar.
Chakra Thirth - For the need of sages, Lord Brahma sent his Chakra - Manomaya Chakra to identify a spot for them to meditate. The Chakra settled at a deserted place and addressed the Saints that, this place by the banks of river Gomati. It is believed that there is no other holy place, as this one in this entire universe. Chakra-Theertha is said to be the center of the universe. It is said that the large sweet-water spring that marks the location of Chakra-Theertha has no bottom. It is said that by taking bath in Chakra Theertha, sins of 10 earlier generations and 10 future generations will also vanish. We did not take bath here and moved on with the prokshanam of the water.
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| Chakra Thirth |
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| Chakra Thirth |
With this, we completed all important temples of Naimisharanya. Next, we travelled to Sitapur. Sitapur is 34 kms from Naimisharanya. We visited the Shyam Nath Temple - a temple for Lord Shiva. There was no crowd here and we just walked in and walked out in few minutes. There are lot of monkeys in this temple.
We then had lunch in a dhaba on the way to Lucknow on the highway. We returned to Lucknow and visited Bara Imambara. Bara means big, and Imambara is a sacred hall. The building includes a mosque - Asfi mosque, the labyrinth - known as bhul-bhulaiya, and bowli, a step well with running water. Two grand gateways welcome the visitors and it leads us to the main building. It is said that there are 1024 ways to reach the terrace but only one to come back. Construction of Bara Imambara was made during famine, and one of the objectives in performing this activity was to provide employment for people in the region. The main complex has a roof has no beams supporting the ceiling and is one of the largest such arched constructions in the world. This part of the building, and often the whole complex, may be referred to as the Bhulbhulaya. The place has 2 people buried inside - the one of the sponsor and the other that of the architect of the building. Our car driver doubled up as guide as well for this place. We spent around 1 hour inside. It was too hot and sultry inside. Entry fee was Rs.25 per person for the main building. Combined ticket for all entries for Labyrinth, Bowli is Rs.50.
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| Bowli - step well ... |
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| The longest ceiling with no support structure ... |
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| Few of the 1024 arches ... entries ... |
We then visited Rumi Darwaza - an arch near to Bara Imambara. It used to mark the entrance to Old Lucknow City. Nearby, is an old clock tower and stepped well, which has been recently renovated and looks in style to attract people in the evenings to kill time.
Later, we checked out from Lucknow and started to Ayodhya. Ayodhya is 150 kms from Lucknow. It takes around 3-4 hours by the highway. On the way, we visited Dewa Sharif. Dewa is 36 kms from Lucknow and hosts this Sufi shrine, which is bright and white. We spent around 10-15 minutes here and started to Ayodhya. There are lot of eateries and sweet shops all around. We did not try any of them.
We took room in Hotel Gupta Guest house. The rooms were quite average and ok. Not a great place to stay. However, if you are looking for one place to stay within Ayodya, this place if ok for a night. There are better hotels in the twin city of Faizabad. We had dinner at Chandra Bhojnalaya. The small eat out serves very tasty food - rotis and paneer sabji. We enjoyed the dinner here - served in small portions of yummy fresh food. There are few eateries with same name as it is quite popular.
Day-3
Morning - by 7 AM we took an auto from the guest house to the all important place of the town - Ram Jhanmabhoomi. We were told that nothing shall be allowed inside apart from money and any small key - like vehicle or room keys. No cameras, mobiles are allowed inside. There are private cloak rooms outside along with the chappal stands for a fee - I guess it was Rs.10. We went through the narrow alleys of Ayodhya and reached the check post for Ram Jhanmabhoomi.
Ram Jhanmabhoomi is one of the most secured religious sites across the world with 4 layers of security checks. Every visitor is physically thoroughly frisked again and again and again 4-5 times to ensure utmost safety. The visitors are cordoned totally in queues through steel pathways on the sides and top and there is no way one can try something different. As we pass on, we enter into ground like area where I guess the old masjid could have been there. Currently, there is a tent like structure where idols of Lord Rama, Sita and Lakshman are kept. There is a possibility that you might miss this as it is small; however, please know that this is that place, of high importance. There are sign boards in Hindi and English telling that you are close to the main area and gets your attention. As you passby, you shall continue by the line and come out closer to where you entered in.
Around this place, there are few other places which might capture your interest. We saw a place named Sita Rasoi - this hosts a small building with a kitchen where Sita Devi was cooking in Ayodhya.
Just in the nearby lane, we located Bharat mahal - a place where Bharat lived. Nearby, we also located Sita Mahal - which is being used as a marriage hall nowadays, there was a marriage going on when we visited it.
Around the corner, there was another one - Rama Raj Gaddi - Rama's palace. Inside, there is a Tulsi madam and a place where it is said Rama used to perform homams. Idols of Lord Rama, Sita nad Lakshman are kept inside and poojas are being made. These places are all across the lanes between Ram Jhanmabhoomi and Kanak Bhavan.
Kanak Bhavan is a very beautiful palace - gifted by Ram’s step-mother Kaikeyi to him and his consort Sita as a marriage gift. This has been reconstructed and renovated quite a number of times. The current palace is quite cosy and grand - hosting the Lord Rama's temple. Everyone visits this place when they are in Ayodhya and is a must to visit. There are three pairs of idols kept in this temple - each from different yuga.
We started to walk towards Hanuman Garhi and located Chakravarti Mahraj Dashrath Mahal. This place is guessed to be thought were Mahraj Dashrath and family was believed to live in. Currently, it is all about a Ram temple and crowd. The place houses a temple, which depicts Ram, Sita, Lakshmana, Bharat and Shatrughan as the chief deities.
Hanuman Garhi is one of the most popular religious shrines in Ayodhya. There are close to 70 steps to climb and see the main sanctum. The main diety of Lord Hanuman is seen with Mata Anjani with infant Hanuman in her lap - and this is a cave temple. It is believed that Hanuman resided here at one point of time to safeguard the place. We spent around 10 minutes in the temple.
We then had breakfast at Nattukottai Chattram - hot idlies, sambhar and chutney. We had idlies after 2 weeks and were very crazy to have them. We thoroughly felt satisfied for this breakfast and we were also told about 2 places to visit - one being the Ammaji mandir and the place where structure for building the Ram temple are getting ready.
Next stop was the famous Ammaji mandir - one of 108 Divya desams of Lord Vishnu. This temple hosts Sri Rama avatar of Lord Vishnu. This Divyadesam is said to be one among the 7 Mukthi Kshetrams. The Thaayar of this divyadesam is Goddess Seetha. The temple was closed when we went around 9:30 and opened around 10 AM. We spent around 10-15 minutes in the temple.
Next, we visited Shri Ram Jhanmabhoomi Nyas Workshop. This is were all required items are being prepared for building the Ram temple. The ornamental pillars and beams are almost ready to build the main temple. One can find final work happening here and also a model of the temple to be built is available to see. There is also a map which depicts all the routes Ram traveled - making the epic look more of history and facts.
We then visited Bada Hanuman temple - where there are exhibits of various events of Rama avathar.
Our final point to see at Ayodhya was Nageshwarnath Temple by the banks of Sarayu river. Banks of Sarayu river is the place where Rama is believed to have attained Mukthi - the final place where the Rama avathaar ended. Nageswarnath temple was built by King Kush - son of Lord Rama. King Kush built this temple in remembrance of a Nag Kanya who worshipped Lord Shiva.
We then started our journey towards Allahabad. Enroute, we located a place called Bharath Kund at Nandigram based on the input from a person at Nattukottai Chathram. This place is around 15 kms from Ayodhya enroute Allahabad - 500m from the NH. This is believed to be the site where Bharat, ruled Ayodhya for a period of 14 years until Lord Rama came back. Bharath also performed tapasya at this place for Rama's return from exile and ruled the kingdom on Lord Rama’s behalf.
We went to Allahabad via Prathapgarh. Roads were okay until Prathapgarh. We crossed Prathapgarh around 1 PM and the couple of restaurants we located did not have parking space. We thought of continuing and having lunch on some NH dhaba - which was a wrong decision. The road from Prathapgarh to Allahabad has been totally torn off and new NH is being laid. It was such a surprise that the authorities did not mind tearing off the whole road. Normally, one side shall be constructed and all traffic shall be sent on other side. Here, it was just a shocker. As the NH was torn off and full of dust, there were no shops or dhabas for almost 40 kms. Around 3 PM, when some good roads appeared, we located a Dhaba and had late lunch. As usual, the food was quite good.
We reached Allahabad by 4 PM and checked in hotel Platinum Inn near the High court. This is pretty decent accommodation in heart of Allahabad. The rooms are typical OYO rooms. Bathroom fittings were sort of put to be in place. No complaints. Location is very good - autorickshaws available always and one of the best restaurants - Dewsis is in the basement and serves food until 3 AM.
After refreshing, we took an autorickshaw and reached Sangam. We went around the Allahabad fort from outside and visited couple of temples. It was around 5 PM that we went to Hanuman Garhi - Lord Hanuman is lying posture. This is the third posture of Lord Hanuman across Naimisharanya, Ayodhya and Allahabad.
Then, we visited Shri Akshayavat temple. Akshayavat resembles the banyan tree which shall survive the world's end. Patalpuri Temple and Akshaya Vat, both are located inside the Allahabad Fort. Patalpuri Temple, the underground temple is also one of the oldest temples in India. One can feel a lot of energy on entering this temple below ground level. We spent few minutes inside and enjoyed the energy levels.
We then came out and sat by the banks of Ganga to be prepared to witness Ganga Aarthi. The aarthi begun by 6:30 and went for 30 minutes. We witnessed the Ganga aarthi from close proximity - which included singing bhajans and performing the pujas.
After that, we took and auto and went to Alopi Devi temple. This temple is located around 2 kms from Triveni Sangam. This temple is peculiar in that there is no statue of any deity in this temple, rather, there is a wooden carriage or 'doli' which is worshipped. When we went, aarthi was being performed and it was such a divine feel. This temple is one of the 51 Sakthi Peets - with the last part of Sati Devi falling here. We spent around 20 minutes in the temple.
We came out and had some local chat items - pani pooris and papdi chat - quite different from what we get in Chennai and we definitely enjoyed it. I, then returned to the hotel room by auto and had dinner from Hotel Dewsis - I had Paneer Manjurian and then plain dosa. The paneer manjurian was excellent - right mix of spices and salt. Next day, we planned to goto Triveni Sangam and then start to Varanasi.
Day-4
By 7 AM, we started to Triveni Sangam. As we could not get an auto, we booked Ola cab and reached Sangam. We were surrounded by many boatmen and middlemen for taking us to Triveni Sangam and offering pujas. The offers started from 2000 rupees. We laughed at it started walking by the river banks. Few continued bargaining and few left us thinking we will not pay them that much. It is important we don't show off affordability in front of them. After few minutes of walk, one boatsman offered for Rs.300 - no sharing boat for 2 of us. We could have still bargained for Rs.100 per person however, it was becoming hot as well as we were losing time. As we closed the deal, a middleman came and took Rs.200 and walked off and the boatman ended up with frown face of getting Rs.100 for the trip. It was pathetic to see the intervention of middlemen. The boatman asked Rs.50 more and we obliged as we were witnessing what happened.
In 10-15 minutes of boating against the flow of water, we reached the Triveni Sangam. The boatman told that we need to pay Rs.50 for bathing. At the sangam, they tie few boats together and help us get into running water with 4 feet depth to take a dip in the holy water. We are charged Rs.50 per head for it and one needs to oblige. Meanwhile, there are Ganga pujaris on the boat who give you milk and coconut to offer when you are taking the holy dip and lure you into compounded expenses, that you cant imagine. Having seen these sort of luring activities at many places, we were cautious and avoided getting into it. Same time, we same a father and son get lured into this by using the given milk and coconuts and ended up paying Rs.200 for it; followed by a puja for Rs.500 and much more ... ended up totally, by paying Rs.1800 in a period of 2 minutes, by the time of we changing our clothes !!! Be aware and Beware ! You might be interested to do the spiritual practices, but, it comes at a cost that one can't imagine ! Be ready to spend !
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| Allahabad Fort from Ganges |
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| Triveni Sangam |
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| Bathing place - 4 feet - running Ganges ! |
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| That Spiritual bait on the boat ! |
We then booked a Ola service to Varanasi. We debated on visited Sitamarhi - place where Sita Devi entered into Earth and Vindhyachal - one of the Sakthi Peets as per locals. However, for the weather and our plans to cover places in Varanasi, we decided to visit Sitamarhi and reach Varanasi. We informed the driver that we have to have breakfast and he also said Hotel Sagar Ratna would be open. We reached and this time, it did not disappoint us - we were the first customers of the day at 10 AM. We order idlies, vada, dosa and coffee. On some other day, the food would have been average; but for the hunger and missing S.I food, this was great. The flavours were more of Karnataka flavoured Sambhar and chutneys - 3 varieties.
Sitamarhi - is 55 kms from Allahabad enroute Varanasi. For someone to locate this in Google maps, you need to search as "Sita Samahit Sthal Sitamarhi". Else, it leads you to Bihar ! We reached here by 11:45. The whole place is converted like a proper tourist spot and lot of small shops all around. The place looked like museum and was named Sita memorial ! It was quite shocking to see and there was lot of crowd when compared to other temples we had been visiting. Then, there was small note leading to steps mentioned as real place of Sita entering under the ground to end the avatar. The place where Sita was swallowed into earth when she willed it so is photographed and put on display, while she was living in the ashram of Saint Valmiki in the forest of Sitamarhi. We spent around 20 minutes here and left.
We started to Varanasi. The NH mostly is on construction and can max drive at 60 kms/hr speed. The driver was hungry and stopped on the NH - 30 kms before Varanasi for food in a Dhaba - Basera Dhaba. We had lassi there - which was quite good. We reached Varanasi by 3 PM. We had booked our stay at Nattukottai Chatram - charging Rs.400 per room. 2-3 people can be accommodated in a room which has bathroom and toilets within. They also serve proper local south Indian food - breakfast, lunch and dinner on booking basis. The most important factor for us to book this was the proximity it has got to the Kashi Vishwanth temple and Dashashwamedh Ghat.
We planned to visit Vyasa Kasi first. We took an auto for Rs.300 to visit Vyasa Kasi and return back to Dashashwamedh Ghat. Vyasa Kasi temple is around 7 kms from Dashashwamedh Ghat and is located inside the Ramnagar fort. This is on the east bank of Ganga river while all the ghats are on the western bank of the river. Ramnagar Fort is a sandstone structure hosting a museum with things used during the period ruled by Rajah of Banaras. The entrance ticket is Rs.50 per person and no photography allowed inside the museum. Photos are allowed outside the museum on the fort and by the banks and temples. The museum displays the cars, chariots, weapons - spears to knifes to swords to guns, dresses, coins, ornaments, palanquins and much more across 3 buildings in 2 floors. The place can be maintained much better as most of the displays and walkways were very dusty. We spent around 20 minutes on the museums and then reached out the the Vyasa Kasi temple.
Vyasa Kasi temple was built by Vyasar as he was asked to leave Kasi by Lord Vishwanath because of his action of cursing Kasi natives for not giving alms for him. This temple is of high significance when visiting Varanasi. We spent around 10 minutes here in the temple and ghats. Evening times are nice from here.
We had some lemon juice to beat down the heat and asked the auto driver to take us to Assi ghat. Assi Ghat is the southernmost ghat in Varanasi and the last ghat of Varanasi. Visitors can go for boat rides here. There are lot of popular restaurants and eateries at Assi ghat.
We then got dropped by auto in the junction near Dashashwamedh Ghat around 5:30. We planned to have local snacks with Varanasi being very famous for roadside eateries - we tried tamatar chat, samosas, paneer fry, lassi. We decided to roam around the narrow streets of Varanasi around Lord Vishwanath temple before Ganga Aarthi. The narrow lanes of Kasi are fun to walk for all the small shops selling different things and people all around walking to temples and local work. We stopped by at Blue Lassi, read about them in Internet and they serve around 100 varieties of lassi. We had couple of them and they were quite nice. There are many other outlets who serve such good lassi. We did not taste anything special apart from the flavours they offer.
We reached Manikarnika ghat. Manikarnika ghat is considered one of the oldest and holiest of the 84 ghats of Varanasi, dating back to 5th century. It is believed that cremation at this ghat leads the soul to salvation. We spent few minutes here observing how things unfold. There is a continuous inflow of dead bodies and at any given time, atleast 6-8 dead bodies are being cremated. One does not feel scared or negativity when seeing this unlike other places. The holiness of the place can be felt by just standing there.
By then, it was around 6 PM and we were approached by a boatman to take us into Ganges and see the Ganga Aarthi from the river. He offered us to take us for Rs.500. We bargained for Rs.200 and closed the deal for Rs.300 for 1 hour - keeping us on the boat and view the Ganga Aarthi across Dashashwamedh Ghat and Rajendra Prasad Ghat. The Ganga Aarthi is performed almost on all ghats of Varanasi, of the 84 ghats spread across for 7 kms. These 2 ghats celebrate it with grandeur - lights and colours.
We boarded the board and the boatmen rowed us across the already stationed boats and took us to as possible close proximity to enjoy the evening. The event unfolded by 7 PM and went on till 8 PM. We enjoyed the grand celebration of thanking River Ganga - which is a daily event by the banks of Varanasi to thank and praise Ganga for being perennial and blessing the city to flourish. The event is a major attraction for all kinds of tourists from being religiously blessed to enjoy the colours and vibrant nature of how is is done.
By 8 PM, we reached back Manikarnika ghat and decided to have dharshan of few important temples - Kasi Vishwanath temple, Kasi Vishalakshi temple, Tundee Ganapathi and Goddess Annapurna. We first decided to visit Kasi Vishalakshi temple as, post Ganga Aarthi, some crowd would have been to Kasi Vishwanath temple. We were correct and the Kasi Vishalakshi temple was not crowded.
The Vishalakshi Temple is one of the prominent Shakthi Peet temples. It is one of the 18 Maha Shakthi Peet temples depicting the earrings of Sati Devi. Vishalakshi is the deity & Kalbhairava, who is believed to be the protector of Kashi is her Bhairava. The temple is situated near to Manikarnika ghat. The temple is very small as the Goddess can be seen from the streets in proximity. We had a very pleasant and peaceful dharshan of the Goddess. There were hardly 10 people in the temple when we went and enjoyed the moments with bliss.
Kashi Vishwanath temple is is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas and one of the holiest Shiva temples in the world. It has been destroyed and re-constructed a number of times in history. The temple complex consists of a series of smaller shrines, located in a small lane called the Vishwanatha Galli, near the river. The linga of the main deity housed in a silver altar. There are small temples for sactums for Kaalbhairav, Muruga, 3 more Linga sanctums, Vishnu, Vinayaka and Saneeswaran in the complex. One has to deposit all electronic gadgets - camera, mobiles and bags at the lockers in shops all across the lanes. There are multiple security checks before entering the temple. There are 4 entrances to the temple, please note which entrance you used and make sure you come back to it; else, you could get lost in narrow lanes. It took around 15 minutes of waiting time to enter the temple as some aarthi was going on and 15-20 minutes to complete the dharshan and come out.
When one enters the Kashi Vishwanath temple - there are 2 important spots one should not miss. First one is Dundi Ganapathi - Lord Ganesha. It is important that one worships Lord Ganesha before praying to Kashi Vishwanath. It is said Dundi Ganapathi was the entrance for Lord Shiva to enter Kasi. None can miss this while entering the main temple through Gate-2.
Annapurna Devi Mandir is one of the most famous temples in the holy city of Varanasi. Belief is that Mata Parvati offered food by her own hands to Lord Shiva and then made a kitchen in Varanasi for her devotees. This is depicted as Annapurna Devi temple. This is close the premises of Kashi Vishwanath temple - less than 50m. One cannot miss this temple while entering via Gate-2.
Later, we had food in local eateries and had a pleasant sleep with fullest satisfaction of visiting the lanes of Kasi, ghats of Kasi the temples of Kasi.
Day - 5
We started the day by 7 AM and walked towards Dashashwamedh Ghat to perform the holy bath of Ganges. We were approached by a boatman to drive us to the other side of the river as this side was quite slushy. We bargained for Rs.100 per person - 2 of us - Rs.200 to take a bath - to and fro by the river of Ganges. We spent around 15-20 minutes in the river and came back. The depth of water where we got down by around 4 feet and water was quite good.
We reached back the banks by 8 AM and went for one more dharshan to Kashi Vishwanath temple. The temple had a long queue this time as it was peak hours of morning and some VIPs were also visiting. We had to wait for almost 45 minutes to have dharshan. Then, we got our turns in the crowd and had a good dharshan again.
We returned back to Nattukottai Chatram to have breakfast - pongal, idlies, sambhar and chutney. Post breakfast, our plan was to hire an auto (same driver that we used to goto Vyasa Kasi) to visit few local temples in Kasi and then Sarnath. We visited 5 temples - Sankat Mochan temple, Tridev temple, Aadishakthi Durga temple, Tulsi Manas temple and local temple by the lanes for Goddess Gauri. Sankat Mochan temple is one of the locally popular temples for Lord Hanuman - it was quite crowded. Camera and mobile phones are not allowed in this temple. We spent around 10 minutes. We skipped the long queue and still where able to have very good dharshan from outside the main sanctum.
Next, we visited Tridev temple. The temple is located near Tulsi Manas Temple in the narrow lanes of Kasi. The shrine is dedicated to three dieties; Lord Hanuman , Sati Devi, and Khatu Ji Maharaj (Khatu Shayam - manifestation of son of Ghatotkacha in Rajasthan). This is a modern day temple built of marble and decorative walls and ceilings. We spent around 5-10 minutes here.
The Tulsi Manas mandir - in remembrance of Tulsidas, who translated Ramayana from Sanskrit (written by Valmiki) to Hindi dialects, called Ramcharitmanas. The temple, made of marble, hosts various art work relating to Ramayana events. It is located at Durgakund very close to the Durga Temple and around 700m from the Sankat Mochan temple.
Adi Sakthi Durga temple is nearby Tulsi Manas mandir. This red-coloured temple, is one of the most famous local temples, where it is believed that Goddess to be in Suyambu form. There is pond nearby the temple and called Durga Kund. We spent around 10-15 minutes in this temple.
We then set our directions towards Sarnath. Sarnath is around 13 kms from Varanasi. The route is half-way through very crowded roads of Varanasi and rest of a highway. As you enter Sarnath, the roads are very broad and very clean. The auto driver first stopped by the Thai Buddha Vihar in Sarnath. This is a modern day temple dedicated to Buddha. The gardens and the temple are well maintained. This temple hosts a tall statue of Buddha. This is one of the main attractions of Sarnath. It is 80 ft high and is India's tallest standing statue of Lord Buddha. It is said it took around 14 years to erect this statue. It is made of sandstone with joint efforts between India and Thailand. We went around and spent around 20 minutes here. The temple is open from 7 AM to 6 PM in summer and 7:30 AM to 5 PM in winter.
We then were taken into an art emporium were sarees were being sold; though we did not have any intention to buy anything, the air conditioning was so good relieving us for some time from the horrid weather outside. We then demanded the driver to take us to the ASI site. Sarnath Excavated Site hosts a bunch of interesting historical sites - The Dhamekha Stupa, Ashoka Pillar, cluster of stupas, many Buddhist monasteries and remains of the same. Entrance ticket is Rs.15 per person for the site and Rs.5 for the Sarnath Museum.
The Dhamekha Stupa - this is the spot where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. Dhamekha seems to be a distorted form of Dharma Chakra which means turning the wheel of the Dharma. The original stupa was constructed by Ashoka. Many dignitaries of Buddhist countries visit this place as this is treated as a very sacred place.
The Ashoka pillar is not located in it's original location as it was broken during Turk and Islamic invasions. Now the Lion capital (National Emblem of Govt. of India) is displayed at the Archeological museum at Sarnath as a wheel with 24 spokes. It has four back-to-back Indian lion; below this are representations of a lion, an elephant, horse and the bull.
The Sarnath museum is also important to see; as this is the place where the Ashoka chakra is kept and important part of Ashoka pillar which is Indian Government emblem is out for display. Cameras, mobile, bags are not allowed inside the museum and has lockers for free. Entrance ticket for the museum is Rs.5 for Indians. The air conditioned museum hosts a rich collection of sculptures and items used in Sarnath when Buddha was around.
Shri Digambar Jain temple at Sarnath is located next to the ASI site. This temple is dedicated to Tirthankara Parashwanath. It has a thin pointed golden tomb structure.
We then returned back to Varanasi and took some rest in the smelting heat. We did have the locally popular Dandayee and thoroughly enjoyed it!
Around 5 PM, we took an auto and visited Kal Bhairav temple, which is around 1.5 kms from Dashashwamedh Ghat. This is one of the most ancient temple of Varanasi. The open timings for this temple is 5:00 am to 1:30 pm and 4:30 pm to 9:30 pm. Devotees offer flowers and liquor at this temple as offerings. Lord Shiva said that Kaal Bhairav will forever be in Kashi in order to remove sins of the disciples. In the fight of power to show, Lord Shiva created Kaal Bhairav as a light pillar, Kaal Bhairav plucked one the heads of Lord Brahma with anger and reached Kasi to get away from the sin. This place is famed as the Kapal Mochan Teerth.
After the dharshan, we walked across several ghats of Varanasi and enjoyed the evening.
Day-5
We had direct flight from Varanasi to Chennai by 9 AM. The Varanasi airport is around 32 kms from the town and takes around 1 hour in the early morning. Most of the roads go through the town and would consume more time in the day time. If you need to travel to airport, do plan your travel accordingly. The airport is quite small and has few eateries. We were back to Chennai by noon after a trip were we covered everything that we planned!
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