Sunday, March 23, 2014

The Andaman Islands !

Trip : Chennai - Port Blair - North Bay and Viper Islands - Baratang - Havelock - Neil Island - Chennai
Trip Dates : December 25, 26, 27, 28 and 29 2013
Trip Mates : Karthik and family

A long planned trip to Andaman Islands to complete my target of 12 trips in a year successfully ! And achieved !!

Day 1 (NORTH Bay and Viper Islands)- Merry Christmas ! Started on the Air India flight scheduled at 5 AM from Chennai and reached around 7:15 AM in Port Blair. The airport is quite small compared to the airports of other capitals in India; and old too. We had booked the package with Guru travels of Port Blair after a 6 month research on the itinerary, costs, stay and tour operators. On arrival at Port Blair in the morning by flight, we were received by the tour operator and transferred to hotel - Classic Regency. We had to wait for around 45 minutes for the rooms to be cleaned and handed over as the lobby did not expect us at that time - gap between tour operator and lobby guys - but was handled smoothly. We had our buffet breakfast of bread, jam, Kitchadi and Pooris. As per the plan, we had to tour all around Port Blair, but, since 25th being a Christmas local holiday, all important places where closed and our tour operator swiftly moved the plan to 2-Island tour - North Bay and Viper Islands; though this was not in the tour package.






We boarded a local cruise (M.V.King) en-tour to North Bay Island around 1030. North Bay Island is visible from Port Blair. One can see a light house just from Rajiv Gandhi Sports complex (where we board the cruises) on the sea and that is North Bay Island. North Bay Island is a coral Island and popular for Snorkeling, Glass Bottom boat ride and Sea Walking. We preferred to go only to Glass Bottom boat ride, for which we had to wait for 1 hour on the cruise. From the cruise, one can buy tickets to go to Sea Walk/Snorkeling and glass bottom boat rides and accordingly, respective boats shall come and pick individuals from the cruise. Glass bottom boat is nothing but, in a normal boat the mid section is replaced with a magnified glass. Tourists can see the corals without getting wet ! Whereas, the same can be experienced with closer proximity and a very different experience, when one does sea walking or snorkeling. We can see a Discovery channel live from the glass bottom ride as one can sight lots of fishes in various unimaginable colours and corals of different sizes and shapes. The pain for people not doing them is, just walk on the limited stretch of beach and wait for others to complete whatever they want. Until all return, the cruise is going to stay there and people giving fat tips to the cruise guys WIN !

There is no real food option at North Bay Island, apart from a useless shop, which one does not feel going near ! Advice is to pack something from Port Blair - stock good amount of snacks. Next place was Viper Island. Started around 14:30, and it takes little more than an hour. One can Port Blair, Chatham harbour one one side and some small Islands (extension of North Bay) on the other side. The route also goes through the Indian Naval Base, where one can sight some Naval cruises and coastal vigilance boats along with mid-sea repair yard ! Viper Island is a very small island and one gets around 15-20 minutes time to spend there. This island is where Indian freedom fighters were executed by hanging. The place is preserved as a tourist island and all remains are ruins. One has to climb around 50 steps to see and then get back to boat. We had to leave in the morning in a hurry as our plans changed and no snacks with us; neither had lunch. All were hungry and tired and it was already around 4 PM - there came a saviour - a person selling cucumber - each for Rs.30 ! That was lunch for us and did not mind shelling out few hundreds for a healthy food!

The return trip from Viper Island to Port Blair was not so enjoyable as it was dark by 5:30 PM and were in rough seas. It was a troublesome ride and one has to hold on to something firmly all through the return journey. As I write this blog, I recollect the mishap that happened in the same place where few lost their lives in January 2014. Reaching back to Port Blair, we were hungry and the cab was ready for our pick-up. Destination : Hotel Annapurna (nothing to relate with one at Coimbatore or the horrible one at Kodaikanal) ! It was awesome to have hot idlis and dosas after a tiring Day-1.







Day-2 (Baratang)

Day-2 was again replanned - Baratang, which was planned for Day-4 earlier !! Day started early around 5 AM. The road journey is around 110 kms. We had opted for common transport as advised by the tour operator. Reasons : The route is in reserve forest, where Jarawa tribes are still there and transport has to happen with military protection. For this, public/common transport vehicles are given priority and private cars follow them. Overtaking is prohibited, and so as stopping anywhere inbetween. So, it does not really matter going by a private vehicle. Second reason, the roads are so bad, that, bigger the vehicle, better the journey ! We were served with breakfast (Poort/Sabji) in the can we went half way through. The first 50 kms is a normal route and next 60 kms is the reserve forest. The half way point is called Jirkatang. The final point on road is Middle strait. From there one takes a Jetty, in which vehicles also get transported to the opposite side - Nilambur. These are South Andaman Islands.








From Nilambur, one shall be transported through a motor boat - 30-40 minutes ride for the Baratang Limestone caves. One can site mangroves all around during this boat ride. On getting down after the motor boat ride, one has to walk for around 1.5 kms to reach the limestone caves (naturally formed) which is only 100 m of length !!! Oh !... for seeing a limestone cave for few minutes one has to travel by road for close to 4 hours (one way) and 2 boat rides (one way) !!! The caves have a dead end and so narrow that most of the length, only one can pass by - there is a rush from the boat operator that we need to return quickly ! Having visited bigger limestone caves in Belum (AP) and Yana (Karnataka), this one was a very big disappointment and me and my family. For the matter of 10-15 minutes of site seeing (unworthy), one had to take pains of 10 hours travel ! We were also told that Mud volcano is closed and not allowed - not sure about the authenticity ! 

Suggestion: Skip Baratang caves. 100% unworthy !
Plus : We sited couple of Jarawa tribes on the return. One item in places one has seen in life ! and lots of tiredness !

Returned back to Port Blair around 8 PM after a disappointing day and a very enthusiastic night as we were to goto Havelock next day morning !!

Day-3 (Havelock)

Checkout of the hotel, packed some sandwiches and reached the Port Blair port for our cruise (MV North Passage) to Havelock Island. The cruise started at 0620 and reached Havelock by 0830. This cruise was big and a first time experience. This cruise cruised through the North Bay Island within the first 10 minutes, for which on Day-1 we took more than an hour to reach :). The views of all side water was spell bounding. Passengers are allowed to walk around in the cruise and stand on the top of the cruise to witness a different experience. one can witness the beautiful Radha Nagar Beach of the Havelock from the cruise. The cruise goes around the Island to dock on the other side of Havelock. Radha Nagar Beach was named by Times magazine of the beautiful beaches of Asia few year back. Yes, it is !



We had our breakfast at a small hotel at the Havelock Port. We then checked-in to our Beach resort on the Vijayanagar Beach front - Hotel GoldStar. The white sandy beach and aqua blue colored water stretch was just few metres from the rooms ! At last, we felt we are in Andaman ! :) What a view ! Breathless ! We wandered around the beach resort and beaches for an hour and we started to Radha Nagar beach. We all unanimously decided to forego Elephanta beach as we want to spend lots of time in the Radhanagar beach and the resort (Vijayanagar beach). We left to the Radhanagar beach at 11:30 and spend almost 3 hours - playing in waters ! The beach is so serene and scenic - white sand, blue waters and hilly region on one side ! WoW ! Yes... this is a place to visit atleast once in life time !


At the GoldStar Resort, Havelock !

View from Resort









We came back and had a pretty decent lunch around 3 PM in the hotel restaurant. Then, off to the beach in the resort. Played and walked around for couple of hours and then dine and to bed ! Pretty satisfactory day in the tour.

Day-4 (Havelock - Neil)

Sunrise seen from Vijayanagar Beach - not really saw the Sun rise, but witnessed a glimpse of it around 5 AM. Sun rises around 4 AM at Andaman (No wonder coz, its so far on the east, yet have IST) and obviously it is too demanding to see the sea so early !

Lazy morning, had breakfast, checked out around 9 AM and reached the Jetty to get into Luxury cruise to Neil island. Our operator had booked Luxury cruise (private operated) - Coastal Cruise ! This was faster than the ones operated by Government - which means many vomit ! This is a closed cruise (air conditioned) and one does not really feel the journey so pleasant and enjoyable. Neil Island is equally beautiful as like Havelock, smaller and less populated. Our first destination was the natural bridge like rock formation. This is a beach where you can see no sand and full of dead corals. Then, you witness a rock formation, which looks like a bridge. The beach is flooded with water for several feet in the evening and nights, and water resides in afternoons and makes way to see the bridge like formation. We also witnessed star fish in close quarters.




Next hop was to Bharatpur beach - this is a heavenly beach and considered to be an excellent place for coral viewing - better than North Bay. We opted for Glass Bottom ride and definitely this was excellent - not to miss ! We viewed several unimaginable colours of fishes in plenty amongst amazing corals. It was a totally splendid experience to view and out of the world. Moreover, the beach had a stretch of water of 2-3 feet for more than a km with very less waves!!! What else does one need (especially without knowing swimming :)) !!!! Next couple of hours where spent in the beach stretch and the waters and it was time to get to the jetty for our return to Port Blair. 1430 - had our lunch in a small hotel showed by the driver - not so great, yet okay !





There were some issues in getting tickets for our return journey, may be missed by the tour operator and we were allowed to board as unreserved - on the deck of MV Jolly Bouy ! I think it was good to go as unreserved, as most of the tourists want to be on the deck enjoying the sea. It made no difference to have a seat in the bottom deck and still stand in the top deck. Reached Port Blair around 8 PM and back to Hotel Annapurna for some Chapathis, Idlis and Dosas.

Day-5 (Port Blair)
Our return flight - Spice Jet was at 1300 hours, and we had the morning was some local site seeing which we did not do on Day-1. Checked out at 0930, headed to Aquarium. Photography is not allowed inside, though, there were tourists who believe to be smart, were taking photos. The collection of corals and fishes is very good and this is a Must visit place. Easily, one can complete this in 30-40 minutes time. Next hop to Cellular jail. We walked in all through the cells and refreshing the freedom fight photographs and few other exhibits around. Came out around 1130, packed our lunch from Annapurna and reached airport by 1200. 





Not such a comfortable feeling to leave the Islands in short period ! Work calls back !

Definitely one more visit to Havelock and Neil Island is on the anvil !!

Not to Miss

  • Stay of atleast one night in Havelock - 2 nights for very relaxing and enjoyable vacation !
  • Spend Quality Time in Neil Island at Bharatpur Beach
  • Glass Bottom Boat ride in Neil Island - Bharatpur Beach
  • Aquarium in Port Blair

Sunday, September 15, 2013

Pilgrimage @ Karnatak !

Trip : Chennai - Mangalore - Dharmasthala - Sringeri - Kollur - Murudeshwara - Udupi - Mangalore - Chennai
Trip Dates : Sept 7, 8 and 9, 2013
Trip Mates : Karthik, Ilangathir, Shivi and Balavasanth

This was a planned destinations trip but little offbeat in planning. We decided to goto each destination and figure out way to the next destination. Mainly 2 reasons, did not get sufficient information in Internet and a strong belief that all these places are too popular and should not worry about connectivity. I will touch these 2 points once again at the end !

DAY-1
We had booked confirmed tickets Chennai to Mangalore and return. We had planned to use the public transportation in Karnataka for all travels. On getting down, we made use of the clean Mangalore railway station; Rs.10 for a bath. After refreshing, we 4 went to Mangalore express bus stand by an auto for Rs.30 (Rs.20 for Rs.10 for 1 extra person). Had a quick breakfast at the bus stand and there was a bus to Dharmasthala ready for us. The journey started at 9:45 and we reached Dharmasthala around noon. It was raining all the way and all the time. Its a distance of 80 kms covered in 2:15 hours. We put our baggage in the cloak room near the bus stand and went to the temple. There was a small queue and took us around 1 hour to have a satisfactory Dharshan. We then went to the temple food hall and had food. Treat the food as prasadham and do not expect anything more. We were out around 2:45. After taking out the baggage, we started probing how to go to Sringeri !?!?!?!?!



One ticket conductor asked us to go to main bus stand and go to a place called Kottigehara. Dharmasthala to Sringeri in this route is 120 kms. Many in the bus stand (KSRTC employees/drivers/conductors) told that there are lots of frequent buses to Sringeri from Kottigehara. Dharmasthala to Kottigehara is 48 kms and expected to take 90 minutes. We boarded a bus to Chittor (AP) at 3 PM, for which the first stop is Kottigehara ! The path is Ghats road and excellent views and either side. Very good roads, excellent views, very misty and the bus was crowded like anything. We had our own fun in the bus because apart from conductor none knew Kottigehara

We reached Kottigehara around 4:00 PM. Once we got down there, what we saw was a bus stand that can accommodate 3 buses and 4-5 shops around. Nothing else; just a typical stop for a long running bus and a very rural part in the ghats ! Many from the shops around said, there is never a direct bug to Sringeri from Kottigehara ! We were taken aback ! One person said there is a mini-bus going to a place called Balehonnur. From there, there are "frequent" buses to Sringeri. Now, this is our clue. "Frequent" - we are not ready to bite the dust again. So, we enquired an omni-van and bargained a drop to Sringeri from Rs.2500 to Rs.1500. We ended up paying Rs.1700, which was a good instant decision we took. Started from Kottigehara at 4:45, we reached Sringeri at 7 PM.

Sringeri - present at a much higher altitude, was really cold, but bearable. We were wet most of the day - September is a month, when sky is going to be open all the day and night and the views are spectacular everywhere. We got 2 rooms just opposite to the Shri Sharadamba temple at temple's guest house. Each was Rs.300 per night. They are very spacious, easily could accommodate 5-6 adults; had 2 single cots. We were really tired and had more travel plan for the next 2 days; so took 2 rooms. The temple is open until 9 PM. We had a dharshan and some food in the temple. We also want to have some more hot food given the climate and hunger and went around the place. There are many vegetarian restaurants. Back to room, had a sound sleep.






DAY 2
Started the day at 5 AM, refreshed and reached the temple for another quick dharshan by 5:45. We were the only devotees in the temple. So calm, serene and super dharshan of Lord Sharadamba, we walked around the temple peacefully, near the river and came out at 6:45. Had some idlis and chowchowbath and learnt the previous day that there is a direct bus to Kollur at 8 AM. We walked to the bus stand and lucky enough that we got comfortable seats. Sringeri to Kollur took us 4.5 hours and reached at 12:45. The bus took a big route through Agumbe, Hebri, Brahmavar, Kundapura and then to Kollur. Normally, if someone go by car, they can go through Agumbe, Hiliana, Halady, Kollur in 2 hours ! The bus stopped at Kundapura for almost 30 minutes :(.






Reached Kollur, and put our bags at a chappal stand and joined the long queue. The temple was closed for some puja and there was a long queue. It took almost 1:30 hours to have a Dharshan and then went to the temple food hall to have prasadham food. Next comes, the move to Murudeshwar. We believed that both so closed located - only 64 kms and the proximity to the main highway, and many also claimed frequent buses to Murudeshwar from Kollur. Next surprise came on reaching the bus stand. No direct bus and one had to go to Byndoor,34 kms from Kollur to reach the highway and from there, buses to Murudeshwar. It was around 3 PM by then and was starting to rain heavily. If one has to goto Byndoor and then the Murudeshwar, it would take round 3.5 to 4 hours totally to reach !


Again, took a new car - a Toyota Etios from the stand for a Car union rate of Rs.1500. We reached Murudeshwar by 4:30 and checked in to RNS Guest house. We took one guest house for Rs.1600 and ordered 2 extra beds. It was worth to get the car and save almost 2 precious hours. We divulged for a bath in Arabian Sea and then went to temple to take a lift to the top, which I missed during my previous stay ! We reached at 6:45 and by then, the lift which has to operate until 7 PM had stopped taking people to the top as there are many people already in the top ! Could not understand the logic but no other option :(. After having a good Dharshan of the Lord Murudeshwar and the Shiva statue at the top, we had dinner at Naveen Beach Restaurant and strolled around for some quick shopping.





A sleep amongst mosquitoes in the guest house ruined a pleasant night.

DAY 3

Again, started the day at 5 AM, took bath and had quick walk around the place. Did have quick breakfast at Naveen restaurant and started to Udupi. An auto took us to the highway for Rs.40 and boarded the bus to Udupi at 7:45.



Reached Udupi around 11 AM - a distance of 102 kms. Took an auto to the temple, had a very good Dharshan in 20 minutes. Back to the bus stand by 12, boarded the bus to Mangalore. We reached Mangalore around 1:15, went to the railway station, put our bags in the cloak rooms. Do note that cloak room keeper does not accept the luggage without locks ! We bought locks and checked-in our bags. We went around in a search to have some good food; few recommended Hotel TajMahal and turned out to be horrible food !


Thus ended our tiresome trip in Karnataka. Coming back to the 2 points in the beginning of the blog.
1. No proper information about buses in Internet - because buses are NOT there. Poor operation of buses by KSRTC !
2. Tourist places - who cares ! If you want to tour in Karnataka, take a package or drive your car/rent a car.