Sunday, March 1, 2015

History and greatness @ Ajanta-Ellora-Lonar

Trip members: Karthik, Murugan, Sriram, Sanjeev and Sathish Raja
Trip date: 20-Feb-15 to 24-Feb-15 (3 days !)
Trip Route: Chennai – Pune – Shirdi- Aurangabad - Ellora - Ajanta - Lonar - Pune – Chennai

Distances:

Pune - Shirdi (via Shirur, Ahmednagar) - 182 kms - 4 hours
Shirdi - Aurangabad - 109 kms - 2 hours and 30 minutes
Aurangabad – Ellora Caves – 29 kms – 40 mins
Aurangabad – Ajanta Caves – 107 kms – 2 hr 15 min
Aurangabad – Lonar (via Jalna) - 153 kms - 4 hours
Aurangabad – Pune - 235 kms – 5 hours

Day-1

We started to Pune on 20-Feb-15 (Friday) later in the evening and reached Pune by 00:00 hours. We had our pre-booked cab (Somdev Cabs) ready to pick us up. The actual plan was Aurangabad, Ajanta and Ellora. At airport, we re-planned to visit Shirdi and then towards Aurangabad. We started towards Shirdi and reached around 4 AM. Our car was parked near the temple and there are lot of private parking near the temple. For the biggest surprise, we were well closer to the queue for the first dharshan of the day and had good dharshan by 5:30  AM and were out by then. This was totally unplanned and the visit was too short for us to realize how quick it all happened, whereas, many plan for days and wait for hours for the dharshan.

We started towards Aurangabad by 6:15 and checked-in to hotel Panchavati around 9 AM. We had booked this hotel after collecting details from TripAdvisor and booked through MakeMyTrip. This was a budget hotel, but, surprisingly, it had great cleanliness, service and spacious rooms. It had hot water as well early in the morning and later in the evenings too. We got the rooms at great price, incomparable to such comfort across many cities in India. A definitely, good place to stay. The hotel was also closer to the station road, which was good for an evening walk after tiresome visits to Ellora and Ajanta.

After refreshing and having breakfast at the hotel restaurant itself, we started to Ellora on day-1. Ellora is close to 33 kms from Aurangabad and roads are quite bad. It took little more than an hour to reach Ellora. These caves are spread across but one can reach these different complexes by car (entry ticket is Rs.10 for Indian but higher for foreign visitors). Cave no 1 to 12 are devoted to Buddhism; 13 to 29 to Hinduism and 30 to 34 to Jainism. As you enter, you could see cave.16, the Kailasha temple, an example how great the Indian sculptors have been. It is suggested you walk to extreme right and start with cave 1. First 5 caves (1 to 5), gives you an idea how difficult it was to create these caves and the era of using sunlight alone for everything can be evidenced.






The most important cave in the Buddhist set is cave 10. The grand pillars and the acoustic brilliance of this cave is just more than amazing. There is a big Buddha statue and one can feel great vibrations in this cave. The echoes of "Om" resonates for few seconds and is a must-feel experience. This is 2-storeyed cave and one may want to spend close to 30 minutes in this cave. Caves 11 and 12 are multi-storeyed and one can imagine how they had designed the roofs, flooring and pillars in multi-storeyed caves so many decades back.




Cave-15 is known as Dasavathara cave and the sculptures of Dasavatharam is seen with amazing piece of brilliance and expressions in first floor of this cave. There is big Nandi as well, which had lost its legs, pedestal and horns, thanks to the demolitions across years.




Cave-16 is the Kailasha temple - a monolithic rock cut temple, which excavated from top to bottom. They say that this cave was excavated and sculpted by ten generations of people across 200 years. The 2 giant pillars standing alone and elephants are great to see. This cave also had 3-D carvings of Yaksha hanging from the ceiling, which is very rare. This also has some paintings, which is not so common in Ellora caves. We can see three gopuras behind, couple of them unfinished and one is finished.




Caves 17 to 20 are mostly unfinished and more demolished. Cave 21 has some great sculptures. The one that catches attention is that of skeletal sculpture, with great focus to the the curves and expressions. Caves 22 to 27 are similar to this between 17 and 20. The path to Caves 28 to 34 was cut-off and we had to take de-tour by cab.

Cave 29 was also a massive piece of history and has enormous sculptures. The height from which the cave has been sculpted is more than amazing and this cave has various chambers.

Caves 31-34 of Jainism are located around 1 km from the rest of the caves and advised to reach out by car. There are small eateries near this set of caves. This caves has some great monolithic sculptures. This is two-storeyed. One gets to enter into cave 33 and gets to cover all 4 caves together.




Ellora caves are closed on Tuesdays. It takes close to 5-6 hours if one wants to visit all the caves. If you want to spend time only at important caves and rush through the rest of them, 4 hours should be more than sufficient.

Important to note: There are no great hotels or restaurants to eat. There are no toilets too as you go across caves. Carry enough water, snacks, biscuits and may be chocolates too. Carry sunglasses, caps and some good slip-ons/shoes (to avoid your legs getting hurt). Also, carry a torch with you as the caves would be dark in some places.

A set of lunatic people, set a beehive loose and we had to run back to the cab to be safe. We heard that the bees sting so much and even the watchman was running. So, take care, if you get to see bees around, better move out immediately and get into a safe location - definitely not inside any cave !!

We also visited one of  the Jyothirlingas near to Ellora - Ghrishneswar Temple. A Couple of kms ahead of Ellora, is the Ghrishneswar Temple, one of twelve Jyotirlingas of India, and a Swaymbhu. Leave the mobiles and cameras in the cab itself as they are not allowed inside the temple. There are shops, which provide locker facility. Men must remove their top clothes before entering. One gets to touch and pray with the linga in this temple, which is not common in South India.



We reached back to the hotel, refreshed and took a walk on the station road. We had some good dinner at Hotel Tandoor, 1 km from hotel Panchavati. On way back, we packed, required snacks, cakes, biscuits for the next day visit to Ajanta.

Day-2

Ajanta is about 107 km from the city of Aurangabad and takes about two hours by road (cab) as the quality of road is not very good. From the parking area, one has to do a 6-km ride by MTDC operated buses. Its a 10-min ride, which means, if you get an option and stand and travel, better prefer it rather than waiting for the next bus to be full. AC buses charge Rs.20/- one way to the caves or back and non-AC Rs 15/-. One needs to queue up for the Caves Visitor ticket and light ticket and queue up again for the return bus ride ticket. Ajanta has 26 caves, some of which are unfinished. Carry a torch as well with you and flash photography is not allowed inside the caves. Ensure you buy the entry tickets as well as the ‘light charges’ (Rs 5/- for upto 20 people), which would be checked randomly. There are drinking water fountains all around (once every 4-5 caves), but, no food is available. So, make sure you pack enough snacks when going to Ajanta. There is also a small marketplace near the parking and a MTDC restaurant close to the ticket counter.

One really does not need a guide in this place, if you have read enough about Ajanta caves. If not, just going into dark and not knowing what it is, does not bring any meaning and sense to your trip. So, bargain and get a guide with you for important caves. It is useful to buy a booklet for Rs.100/- sold at the entrance. The book has good explanations about the caves. Tickets are to be purchased at the counter near the MTDC restaurant.





Ajanta caves is closed on Monday. Dholis and porter service are available in Ajanta. One has to climb close to 100 steep steps to start the comfortable journey of visiting Ajanta. Ajanta caves are all on a single hill - horse-shoe shaped. The caves are closer when compared to Ellora. Ajanta is fully dedicated to Buddhism and is known for paintings rather than sculptures, unlike Ellora.

Cave 1 is one of the best of the bunch there. A guide would make more sense for you to understand the expressions, the cause and the background of the paintings. For most of the caves in Ajanta, one has to leave the footwear outside. So, better plan to go with slip-ons to Ajanta. The place is quite clean and tidy. The floral and fauna paintings are great across the caves and imagining this was done centuries back is just amazing and exciting.




Caves 1, 2, 9, 10, 17, 19 and 26 are most important ones as far as Ajanta paintings are concerned. One can plan to spend 3-4 hours in Ajanta. One way journey from Aurangabad easily takes 2 hour and 30 minutes. Hence, 5 hours lost in travel, means, you cannot visit any other place on the same day. Cave 26 has the Lord Buddha in Nirvana position and this place is similar to Cave 10 of Ellora. This is a great place to meditate.







The MTDC restaurant at Ajanta serves tasty food at a more-than-regular price. But, getting food after an arduous day is much better than travelling back 2 1/2 hours for food to Aurangabad ! So, avail the opportunity to feed your stomach @ MTDC restaurant. There are shops at the parking area for buying any souvenirs, and remember you can bargain at 1/5 - 1/6th of the price they quote.

Back to Aurangabad around 8 PM, we went to the hotel Great Sagar, known for Mugal food - veg and non-veg are being served here and the food is of high quality at normal price. This restaurant is a must-visit in Aurangabad and don't miss Qubani as your dessert. This is made of dried Apricots.



Day-3

After a great sleep, we started our journey to Lonar. Not to mention the great breakfast we had on day 2 and 3 at the Idly-Wada-Dosa center near to our hotel. We had some great Idlys, cut-dosas and tea.

LONAR is a crater lake, one amongst the three in the planet; other two - one in Siberia and other in Oregon state of US. So, this makes the place a must-visit. Lonar Lake is a saltwater lake at Lonar Maharashtra, which was created by a meteor hitting the Earth. This lake is both saline and alkaline in nature, which is uncommon. The waters is surrounded by thick forest hosting wild monkeys (Langur) and birds like Stork, Flamingos, Crane, Mynas, peacocks and ducks. The shores of the lake hosts few temples as well, a Hanuman temple, Daityasudan, temple and few more to name.

We reached Lonar around 11:30 AM, after starting around 8 AM. One needs to go through Jalna and Sultanpura. You can sight MTDC resort on the left side and in 100m, we get the view point to see the lake. We trekked down the hill from the entry opposite to MTDC, which quite steep and slippery. We first reached a Hanuman temple, located on the right side of the path way down - the slopes of the crater !




Then, we started to trek around the lake through the forest. First time in a real forest with no guide and none around the lake was quite fearsome and daring for this bunch of people ! :). We restricted ourselves to be closeby and took some good snaps. Slowly and steadily, we got our breathe as we saw couple of ladies walking to the temple on the other side of the lake. We could site lots of water birds and Langur monkeys. After close to an hour of exciting and eventful walk, we reached the temple on the other side - the Kamalja Devi Temple.










It was quite a place to visit once in life time. The trek back to the top of the crater was quite steep and took 20 minutes of sweating climb to be back to the top. Earlier, we had asked our cab driver to come to this point to pick us back, which is close to 2 kms from the MTDC resort. We made our way back to MTDC for food, based on our experience at Ajanta, and we were not disappointed. We stuck to a simple menu of Jeera rice, dhal, aloo, papad and curd and was a great to savour after the trek.

Lonar crater lake is a must-visit for everyone who likes an experience with difference. The approach is a demanding one from Aurangabad, however, its worth it. One more important info to share is that there are great green grapevines on the way to Lonar after crossing Jalna. They sell grapes as cheap as Rs.40-50 per kg fresh from the farm and ensure you stock them up as much as want. They were too good until we came back to Chennai !

Please note that one can combine in this or we missed ! We did not see anything in Aurangabad - Daulatabad Fort, Bhul Bhulaiya, Aurangabad Caves, Bibi ka Maqbara and Panchakki are places to visit in Aurangabad. We thought of either doing these or Lonar, and decided to visit Lonar, which was a great experience and no so common among travellers.

As well, one can plan to visit Sri Datt Temple @ Devgad, Shani Maharaj Temple @ Shani Shignapur and one of the AshtaVinayak temple on the way back to Pune - plan for one day enroute to Pune from Aurangabad to visit all these temples, which are very prominent.

On top of all this, we had an excellent cab facility a Tavera with a very friendly driver, Mr.Somdev. If you want to take any cab from Pune, please contact Mr.Somdev @ 09763578181.

Friday, January 23, 2015

Pune - Jejuri - Mahabaleshwar - Pune - Lavasa


Trip members: Karthik and family
Trip date: 25-Dec-14 to 28-Dec-14
Trip Route: Chennai – Pune – Jejuri – Panchgani – Mahabaleshwar – Pune – Lavasa – Pune – Chennai

Distances:

  • Pune Airport – Khandoba Temple, Jejuri – 62 kms – 1 hr and 30 mins
  • Jejuri – Shivsagar Farmhouse (Panchgani) – 97 kms – 2hr 30 mins
  • Jejuri – Mahabaleshwar – 110 kms – 2hr 45 mins
  • Panchgani – Pune – 108 kms – 2 hr and 30 mins
  • Pune – Lavasa – 54 kms – 2 hr and 15 mins


Another year, another Christmas day trip – third year in succession.  This time, the thrill was quite spicy with tickets booked on SpiceJet and unsure the flights would take-off and change in timings. The onward flight to Pune took off with slight delay and we were happy that the trip was on !.

Day-1

Reached Pune around 7:30 AM and we had out cab ready. The cab was planned and booked, courtesy Murugan. The cab was from Mr.Somanath – a Tavera. He got a decent vehicle with an excellent driver (owner of the vehicle). We had breakfast on the way to Jejuri. Jejuri is the place of Lord Kandhoba, our family God and we want to and planned to visit this temple. We had breakfast on the way to Jejuri – Hotel Shivanand. The  specialties we tasted were Cut Dosa – masala Dosa rolled and cut like Spring rolls. They were yummy and tasty along with regulars – Idli, Plain dosas, Vada and coffee.

The Lord Kandhoba temple is situated on a small hill, and one needs to climb around 350 steep steps to reach the temple. The steps are laid of stones and were quite chilly to walk. It would be very difficult in summer to climb as the stone steps would also be hot. The temple is popular and known to use Turmeric powder as the important identity in temple. The whole place is yellow-ish and very different to see when compared to temples in South. Beware as devotees would be throwing Turmeric powder all around and you are expected to turn out with yellow colour some way or the other. There is free and special dharshan. The queue moves faster in both queues.







We had excellent dharshan and the view from the temple (top of the hill) is excellent. We then started to Mahabaleshwar. The driver suggested to visit the Lord Narayana Temple at Narayanpur, Saswad. The temple had some special poojas at the time and said it was closed for next 1:30 hours. We went around the temple and decided to leave instead of waiting for the dharshan. The temple was very clean and maintained very well. From the parking areas to the dharshan areas, everything was very well planned and maintained.

Next, we went to Panchgani. This travel was close to 2 hours from the Narayan Temple. The roads are very good. Now, we had roadblock as the car alternator failed. The driver was little worried and if he does not take to the workshop on the same day, and the car fails next day or so, the whole trip would be screwed up. So, he dropped us at Mapro garden for some relaxing and decided to check-in around 3 PM and then take the car to workshop. Mapro garden is a private place of Mapro with a beautiful garden and viewing place. They have stores to sell all Mapro products along with a costly eatery that sells sandwiches, fries, Pizzas, Strawberry milkshakes, icecreams and etc. They are quite costly, but, one can spend and kill time here with kids for some good views, food and fun.








One can find lots of strawberry vendors all along the place on the road side. It costs around Rs.200 per kg and you can just enjoy eating them all the time. Beware that the fruit is expected to last only one day and hence, don’t do bulk purchases. Buy as much as you can eat that day and buy again the next day.

We had booked Shivsagar Farmhouse 3-4 kms off the Panchgani-Mahabaleshwar road. There is a small strawberry farmhouse in front of the guest house and a small lawn in front. One can spend late evenings and early mornings there. The facilities and look-feel are quite different from what the website shows, but, ok. The one thing to be aware is that hot water is not available 24x7 and would not be ready before 07:30 in the morning.

Day-2

The car was ready by 8 AM and we started to Mahabaleshwar. Visited Venna lake on the way to Mahabaleshwar . The boating jetty was ready and we were the first to visit. Me and my daughter made a ride on the horse near the lake and this was a first time experience for my daughter. The ride costed Rs.120 for one round. We had breakfast at a veg. hotel near the main parking area and left the Arthur’s seat by 9 AM.




Arthur’s seat is a grand view point with different small viewing points and excellent walking trail. The weather was not so enjoyable with temperature around 26 degree Celsius at that elevation, which was quite sweaty. The various points in this walking trail include, Arthur seat point, Echo point, Hunter point, Tiger Spring point, Window point and Malcom point. The weather was quite sunny and not great for photographs. Even the views were not greeny and August-September is the best time to visit this place. The next hop in the walking trail is Tiger Spring. There is a small water spring which looks like, tigers used to come and drink here. Nothing great, but just another namesake point.













We spent close to 2 hours at this point. There are lot of eateries all around the place and try to gulp what one wants here. Other points do not have so many eateries.

The next point is Savithri point. This is a small walking trail and has the view of Savithri river. The river is expected to have water in the monsoon season and not around the year. The Arthur’s seat view point is also viewable from Savithri point.




Next is, Marjorie point. This seems to be the suicide point of Mahabaleshwar. One can see the whole deep valley from this point.




Elphinstone point comes next. From here, we are able to see maximum view in this view point. The whole valley and hills is visible in this point. We got struck in horrible traffic from this location. The roads are quite narrow and can only accommodate cars. If any bus comes in the route, the whole areas is locked and just can’t move any side. We got struck when few tourist and government buses thronged the area and it took us close to 2 hours for the next 5 kms.




The next view place is Kate’s point. Like Arthur’s point, this is also a cluster of view points. The Kate’s point also comprises a Echo point, Needle’s hole and Elephant’s head points. The view gives a grand site of a dam beneath. The dam is called Dhom dam. The Krishna river across the valley along with the dam is just beautiful. The view like Elephant’s head is also called Needle hole point. The rock has a little gap from the hill and looks perfectly like Elephant’s head. The gap between looks like Needle hole and thus called so. There are horse and camel rides in this place as well.






It was almost 4 PM as we were stuck in traffic and decided to goto Mapro Garden for lunch.  We had some sandwiches, pizza and milkshakes to end the late lunch and back to the homestay. We had dinner at Shivsagar homestay itself on both nights and the food was okay.

Day 3

On the Day-3 morning, we checked out and decided to go back to Pune after visiting places at Panchgani. The first place was Parsi point, this comes few kms on the Mahabaleshwar-Panchgani road. The view point has nice view of Krishna river and the hills around. We then had breakfast in the so-called Udupi hotel at Panchgani which was average.




Now, we went to most important place at Panchgani – the Table land. As we entered the parking area, we were thronged around by lot of horses and gave different packages for 3 kms ride, 5 kms ride and 7 kms ride. We went for the medium-sized ride as the bigger was well above Rs.1000. We hired 2 horses, one for my princess and me and the other for my queen. The rider tempted enough to go for the bigger ride and said they are open for bargaining, after reach half of the distance. I knew I want to take the bigger trip to ensure we don’t miss any place, but, showed that I am not interested. However, the final price of Rs.1000 per horse was the time to decide to take the longer ride and cover the locations like pancha pandava foot, view of all five table mountains (Panchgani, thus the name), view of Sydney point, view of Krishna river, view of One tree point, Harrison’s folly, around the lake, view film shooting locations referencing many movies, Tiger Cave and one more cave where the movie, Alibaba and 40 thieves was shot.

The total ride was more than an hour and we covered these small points around one table land. One can prefer the walk around all the points, but, it would be exhaustive with elders/children and also would take around 4 hours. The parking lot itself is a table land and one out of the five – Panchgani table lands.











We then visited Sydney point, skipping Harrison’s folly, where paragliding happens. Sydney point is not so common place for everyone to visit. It is 2 kms from the main road to Panchgani. This is point quite high and gives some good views of the valley, table lands and river. Once can spend around 15-20 minutes in this place. We then started to Pune and had lunch on the way at a highway hotel.

We had booked rooms at Hotel Centurion Inn at Pune. There was some issue in the hotel and we were accommodated at their Centurion Hotel, which was welcome news. This hotel is situated in Shivaji Nagar, prime place in Pune to walk around in the evenings. We went around the Shivaji Nagar main roads in the late evenings and tasted lots of local food – Pav bhaji, Dabeli, Bhajjis.

In the evening, we visited 2 places in Pune. Pataleshwar caves and Shaniwar Wada. Both are close by to Shivaji Nagar, around 1 -2 kms apart. Pataleshwar Caves is close the Jungle Maharaj Temple. This place is quite a small cave. There is an Eswar temple inside and the place can be seen in 10 minutes. Next, we went to Shaniwar Wada. This is an old mansion which housed 1000 persons. We went around the place and on the wall of the fort and spent about 1 hour there. There seems to a light and sound show around 7:30 in evenings and charged @ Rs.50 per head. We did not visit the show and came back to the hotel and rested.







Day 4

After having good buffet breakfast at Centurion Hotel, checked out and started towards Lavasa by 8 AM. Lavasa is around 60 kms from Pune and is a planned town around a dam. The place is quite small and good enough for a day trip. There is a dam on the way before the ghats and it would be beautiful sight when water is released. As you climb the ghats section, we can see the water storage of the dam and good for photography. The roads are very good and quite number of viewpoints all the way. Night stays would be costlier in Lavasa. We reached Lavasa by 9:30 and there is a small train that runs on the road (Rs.50/person) and goes around Lavasa. This is fun for children. However, if you come by your own car/taxi, you can go by yourself all around. The toy train is not recommended for adults only gangs.









The place is excellent for photography to project as if we are in foreign location. The Dasve Dam provides very good view and a good to see. There is a parking fee of Rs.100/- to park the car anywhere in Lavasa. Pay once and park anywhere. There is a small park near the toy train area for the kids to play. The dam provides different type of boating options. There are small canteens near the water sports area and they are quite costly. There are some temporary games and stalls for kids to play in the water sports area. We had some sandwiches and ice creams and started out to Pune by around 1 PM.









On the way back to Pune, we had excellent lunch at Hotel Ratnai (Pure Veg) near Pirangut. On reaching Pune by around 4 PM, we went to Aga Khan Palace. The palace is situated on Nagar Road in Kalyani Nagar. During Quit India movement, the palace is where Gandhiji and his wife were interned. The palace displays several items used by them and Samadhi of Kasturba Gandhi. One can spend around 90 minutes here. The place also has a big lawn for children to play around.




Our return Spice Jet was delayed for more than 4 hours and at last reached Chennai real tired. We visited our relatives at Magarpatta on the way back.