Pilgrimage @ Karnatak !

Trip : Chennai - Mangalore - Dharmasthala - Sringeri - Kollur - Murudeshwara - Udupi - Mangalore - Chennai
Trip Dates : Sept 7, 8 and 9, 2013
Trip Mates : Karthik, Ilangathir, Shivi and Balavasanth

This was a planned destinations trip but little offbeat in planning. We decided to goto each destination and figure out way to the next destination. Mainly 2 reasons, did not get sufficient information in Internet and a strong belief that all these places are too popular and should not worry about connectivity. I will touch these 2 points once again at the end !

DAY-1
We had booked confirmed tickets Chennai to Mangalore and return. We had planned to use the public transportation in Karnataka for all travels. On getting down, we made use of the clean Mangalore railway station; Rs.10 for a bath. After refreshing, we 4 went to Mangalore express bus stand by an auto for Rs.30 (Rs.20 for Rs.10 for 1 extra person). Had a quick breakfast at the bus stand and there was a bus to Dharmasthala ready for us. The journey started at 9:45 and we reached Dharmasthala around noon. It was raining all the way and all the time. Its a distance of 80 kms covered in 2:15 hours. We put our baggage in the cloak room near the bus stand and went to the temple. There was a small queue and took us around 1 hour to have a satisfactory Dharshan. We then went to the temple food hall and had food. Treat the food as prasadham and do not expect anything more. We were out around 2:45. After taking out the baggage, we started probing how to go to Sringeri !?!?!?!?!

One ticket conductor asked us to go to main bus stand and go to a place called Kottigehara. Dharmasthala to Sringeri in this route is 120 kms. Many in the bus stand (KSRTC employees/drivers/conductors) told that there are lots of frequent buses to Sringeri from Kottigehara. Dharmasthala to Kottigehara is 48 kms and expected to take 90 minutes. We boarded a bus to Chittor (AP) at 3 PM, for which the first stop is Kottigehara ! The path is Ghats road and excellent views and either side. Very good roads, excellent views, very misty and the bus was crowded like anything. We had our own fun in the bus because apart from conductor none knew Kottigehara ! 

We reached Kottigehara around 4:00 PM. Once we got down there, what we saw was a bus stand that can accommodate 3 buses and 4-5 shops around. Nothing else; just a typical stop for a long running bus and a very rural part in the ghats ! Many from the shops around said, there is never a direct bug to Sringeri from Kottigehara ! We were taken aback ! One person said there is a mini-bus going to a place called Balehonnur. From there, there are "frequent" buses to Sringeri. Now, this is our clue. "Frequent" - we are not ready to bite the dust again. So, we enquired an omni-van and bargained a drop to Sringeri from Rs.2500 to Rs.1500. We ended up paying Rs.1700, which was a good instant decision we took. Started from Kottigehara at 4:45, we reached Sringeri at 7 PM.

Sringeri - present at a much higher altitude, was really cold, but bearable. We were wet most of the day - September is a month, when sky is going to be open all the day and night and the views are spectacular everywhere. We got 2 rooms just opposite to the Shri Sharadamba temple at temple's guest house. Each was Rs.300 per night. They are very spacious, easily could accommodate 5-6 adults; had 2 single cots. We were really tired and had more travel plan for the next 2 days; so took 2 rooms. The temple is open until 9 PM. We had a dharshan and some food in the temple. We also want to have some more hot food given the climate and hunger and went around the place. There are many vegetarian restaurants. Back to room, had a sound sleep.

DAY 2
Started the day at 5 AM, refreshed and reached the temple for another quick dharshan by 5:45. We were the only devotees in the temple. So calm, serene and super dharshan of Lord Sharadamba, we walked around the temple peacefully, near the river and came out at 6:45. Had some idlis and chowchowbath and learnt the previous day that there is a direct bus to Kollur at 8 AM. We walked to the bus stand and lucky enough that we got comfortable seats. Sringeri to Kollur took us 4.5 hours and reached at 12:45. The bus took a big route through Agumbe, Hebri, Brahmavar, Kundapura and then to Kollur. Normally, if someone go by car, they can go through Agumbe, Hiliana, Halady, Kollur in 2 hours ! The bus stopped at Kundapura for almost 30 minutes :(.

Reached Kollur, and put our bags at a chappal stand and joined the long queue. The temple was closed for some puja and there was a long queue. It took almost 1:30 hours to have a Dharshan and then went to the temple food hall to have prasadham food. Next comes, the move to Murudeshwar. We believed that both so closed located - only 64 kms and the proximity to the main highway, and many also claimed frequent buses to Murudeshwar from Kollur. Next surprise came on reaching the bus stand. No direct bus and one had to go to Byndoor,34 kms from Kollur to reach the highway and from there, buses to Murudeshwar. It was around 3 PM by then and was starting to rain heavily. If one has to goto Byndoor and then the Murudeshwar, it would take round 3.5 to 4 hours totally to reach !

Again, took a new car - a Toyota Etios from the stand for a Car union rate of Rs.1500. We reached Murudeshwar by 4:30 and checked in to RNS Guest house. We took one guest house for Rs.1600 and ordered 2 extra beds. It was worth to get the car and save almost 2 precious hours. We divulged for a bath in Arabian Sea and then went to temple to take a lift to the top, which I missed during my previous stay ! We reached at 6:45 and by then, the lift which has to operate until 7 PM had stopped taking people to the top as there are many people already in the top ! Could not understand the logic but no other option :(. After having a good Dharshan of the Lord Murudeshwar and the Shiva statue at the top, we had dinner at Naveen Beach Restaurant and strolled around for some quick shopping.

A sleep amongst mosquitoes in the guest house ruined a pleasant night.

DAY 3

Again, started the day at 5 AM, took bath and had quick walk around the place. Did have quick breakfast at Naveen restaurant and started to Udupi. An auto took us to the highway for Rs.40 and boarded the bus to Udupi at 7:45.

Reached Udupi around 11 AM - a distance of 102 kms. Took an auto to the temple, had a very good Dharshan in 20 minutes. Back to the bus stand by 12, boarded the bus to Mangalore. We reached Mangalore around 1:15, went to the railway station, put our bags in the cloak rooms. Do note that cloak room keeper does not accept the luggage without locks ! We bought locks and checked-in our bags. We went around in a search to have some good food; few recommended Hotel TajMahal and turned out to be horrible food !

Thus ended our tiresome trip in Karnataka. Coming back to the 2 points in the beginning of the blog.
1. No proper information about buses in Internet - because buses are NOT there. Poor operation of buses by KSRTC !
2. Tourist places - who cares ! If you want to tour in Karnataka, take a package or drive your car/rent a car.

Kodaikanal in August....

Trip : Chennai - Madurai - Kodaikanal - Madurai - Chennai
Trip Dates : August 15,16 and 17, 2013
Trip Mates : Karthik and family

The trip was planned in August to avoid crowds and enjoy the chilly climate. However, since it was Independence Day weekend, I was little worried, that there may be some crowd. It turned out to be excellent time everywhere with less crowds and excellent climate for 3 days.

We had booked train tickets to-from Madurai-Chennai segment and booked cab from Madurai-Kodaikanal for 3 days. Rooms were booked well in advance around 2 months earlier at Hotel Hilltop Towers through online booking. Hotel Hilltop Towers was preferred because we had elders in the trip, who could not walk a lot and comfortable to go for relaxed walk in morning and evenings around the boat club as per the need of anybody. Hotel Hilltop Towers gets booked fast and mostly 100% full around the year. The facilities are really good and we had rooms in the second floor - there is no lift here. The room booking also includes complimentary breakfast buffet - South Indian food - Idli, Vada, Pongal, Dosas, Aapam and bread/butter/jam.

We left Madurai around 07:30 and stopped at Hotel Meenakshi Bhavan at Batlagundu for breakfast. Food is average. Reached Kodaikanal by 10:45 after couple of stoppages inbetween for photographs and checked-in. Hotel Hilltop Towers offers 24 hour check-in-out. We then started the day tour -> Started with the traditional trip - Coaker's walk. The place was quiet and clear skies. We had a good view of the valleys. Next stop was at the Green Valley View.This place was little crowded and the view point is erected with fences. The clouds were passing by and we had a very good view of the Green Valley too. We had some hot Bhajjis and moved ahead in the trip.

The Pillar Rocks was the next destination. The place was also little crowded and spent some good time taking photographs. We could have a clear view of the pillar rocks. Pine Forests is a special place for photography provided the place is so serene and the light that comes in. It was almost 2 PM, and the place was empty. We were almost alone in the pine forests and probably 2-3 families only  around. Spent quality time in the Pine forests. Break for lunch.

Hotel Astoria is the only vegetarian restaurant that offers pure vegetarian food apart from Hilltop Woodlands. Our lunches on two days were at Hotel Astoria. The food is okay with respect to meals and tiffen items are  better. One had to wait to get a table in either of these 2 restaurants as there is a demand of good vegetarian food in Kodaikanal. So, plan accordingly.

Rest of the evening was spent at Bryant Park. The entrance tickets for the Bryant park is not very high compared to what was there earlier. Its Rs.30 for adults ! and Rs.15 for children and Camera tickets are Rs.50! The park is maintained really well nowadays. The month of August, with the kinda climate we were experiencing, it was a no surprise to see the park full of varieties of Roses and Dahlias. A very picturesque scene at the park and we strolled slowly around and spent the evening there. Little later, after having a masala tea around the boat club, me and my dear took bicycles and went around the boat club for around 30 minutes and came back to the hotel to have pleasant sleep. We had our quick dinner also at Hotel Hilltop Woodlands.

We planned to visit Berijam lake next morning. Berijam lake requires permission to be obtained from the forest department. The office opens around 8:30 in the morning and one has to go to this office; fill an application and produce an photo identity to obtain the permission slip. Charges are Rs.150 for car and Rs.200 for van. Looks like there is a limit of 150 vehicles per day. Not sure of this though !

The road leading to this place is 13 kms from Moir point. This route is simply superb with excellent view points. When we traveled  the road was very misty and made our travel very delighted. One should not miss to stop on the way for several view points including the Berijam View point. There are no shops to buy anything once we cross the Moir point. So, get some snacks/food and plenty of water, when you plan this place. Once we reach the parking slot, we have to walk for half km to reach the lake banks. We can walk around and experience several different views by the lake side.

The place is so calm and excellent for one to stay there for few hours. The climate changes frequently - sunny, cloudy, foggy rapidly and gives very good scenic photography. We spent close to an hour around the banks and returned through the thick white milky screens of fog all along. One more lunch at Hotel Astoria and we went back to the rooms for some rest. Evenings -> Boat clubs and around. My daughter decided to have some fun - We again had a cycle ride around the boat club; did a quick dashing cars ride and had hot snacks and tea until it became dark.

Next day morning, my daughter wanted to goto Bryant park again; and we obliged to her wish. After spending around 2 hours there, we bid adieu to Kodaikanal. On the way down, we purchased some fruits, pears, supporta and jack fruit. Also, we viewed Silver Cascade and Dum-Dum rock on the way. Enroute to Madurai, we stopped near Vadiapatti on the highway for excellent lunch at Hotel Sai Ariyas.

Other interesting places in Kodaikanal are Moir's point, Dolphin Nose, Vattakanal and Neptune Water Falls, Bear Shola water falls. Looks like there was very little rains in July, none of the water falls had water. So, we did not go. Moir's point requires steep climb down and up for excellent view points, which we could not do because we had elders in the trip. Dolphin nose requires a trek of around 1 hour; again we skipped. We had visited these places earlier and more information is available in my previous post : http://karthikwander.blogspot.in/2010/04/trip-to-kodai.html

Monsoon Magic - Athirapally-Kochi !

Trip : Chennai - Chalakudy - Athirapally - Kochi - Chennai
Trip Dates : July 27 and 28, 2013
Trip Mates : Karthik and family

The aim was to see Athirapally when it is on full flow during the monsoon. And we ended up seeing it amazingly running bank to bank after 15 years - as per the locals. We had booked tickets from Chennai to Chalakudy. We had booked Ecogreen Homestay at Chalakudy based on the reviews we saw in TripAdvisor and they were bang-on ! We also took the package for 2 days in car - Athirapally and Kochi. A homestay run by Mr.Suresh Mathew had a car waiting for us at the railway station and received with warmth. This place is around 2-3 kms from the railway station. After a good breakfast, we started our day.

Athirapally Falls is around 32 kms from Chalakudy. As expected the weather was gloomy, but, no rains luckily. However, it was drizzling now and then. First place to visit was Kauthuka Park. (http://www.kauthukapark.com/) 

Kauthuka park is a very different kind of park, where the theme is bio-co-existence. Also, the place is rich with innovative ideas like Ariel roots, Walking trees and grand simulation of natural sanctuary with selected animals, fishes, amphibians and birds. Though the place is small, still is is a great place of learning and awareness. It is a great place to go with children as they get to learn about lot of things. One can spend about a hour here and is worth it. There is no entrance ticket; however, the owner requests for donation to maintain the place. Its one's wish to pay him as they could.

Next stop was the view point of the grand Athirapally falls. YES ! The falls was running bank to bank and the sound of water was so heavy. We decided to go to Charpa and Vazhachal falls before we get to Athirapally. Charpa Falls is 3 kms from Athirapally and Vazhachal is 5 kms further. Charpa Falls was almost falling over the road with roaring sounds ! It felt out of the world and an amazing experience in the peak monsoon.

Vazhchal falls - Rs.10 entrance and this can be used for the Athirapally falls as well. The place was so clean and serene, well maintained. The water was so full that bathing was banned and security all around. We did a walk along the banks on well-laid platforms for about a km. We had some hot tea, pazham pori, Bajjis in the cold weather. After dipping our feet on the cold water for few minutes, we walked back and drove to Athirapally.

Water was running like milk and one could not see the bottom of the falls because of the water scattering all around. After spending few minutes there and none being allowed to take bath because of the heavy water, we started our downward trek towards the bottom of the falls. WOW ! The falls was flowing well beyond the rocks we used to see normally. The visibility was so low that when attempted to take a photo, the background was always virgin white !

The driver aptly took us to a small, but, tasty veg food hotel - Saravana, few kms from the falls. Next, we went to the Thumboormuzhy dam. There is a small park for Kids to play and a nice view of the flowing water. This is closed for entry by 4 PM and exit by 5 PM. We reached back the stay and ordered food. The food was amazing. Though we ordered only Parattos, Chappthis and little rice with curd, we got lots of extras like Dhal, more rice, Sundal, papadams. This is an apt display of hospitality from My.Suresh of Ecogreen Homestays. Breakfast was also ready and Tea served all through our stay was so good.

Day-2 -> Kochi. The first place we visited was the Hill Palace Museum at Tripunithura. This place is around 50 kms from Chalakudy. We spent an hour there going through some history of Kerala Rajas. Mobiles and cameras are not allowed inside. One can deposit in safe lockers at the entry of the palace. This place is located around 10-12 kms from the mainland of Ernakulam. A small kids play area is also available at the parking place. Overall, a place to go around and see a wooden palace and some history about Kerala.

Next, we visited the area of Mattancherry. First, was the St.Francis church. This place is a piece of history - Kochi, Vasco Da Gama, Portuguese, Dutch ! The church is really old and says renovated in 1779 !! A quick peek into the church makes one understand how old it is and services are still going on. The surroundings are greenly and within 1 km from there one can reach a small beach too. Few kms from there is the Mattancherry palace - A small place in Fort Kochi area. Here, one can read in detail about the Kerala Rajas history - Rama Raja, Kerala Raja, Ravi Raja. One can also learn how Kerala was formed.

We drove to the Marine drive and spent some time there before we left to catch the train back to Chennai. We got parcel for dinner.

One more piece of information: We had our return ticket from Trissur to Chennai, whereas we were going around in Ernakulam (Kochi). What we did to board the same seat from Ernakulam -> Bought sleeper unreserved tickets between Ernakulam and Thrissur on the same seats.