Trip members: Karthik
Trip date: 28 Dec - 29 Dec 2024
Trip Plan : Chennai - Bhubaneswar - Jajpur - Ratnagiri - Udayagiri - Lalitgiri - Chattia - Cuttack - Bhubaneswar - Chennai
A suddenly planned trip to visit ancient Buddhist towns and architectural master pieces of Kalinga dynasty along with one of the 18 Maha Sakthi Peet temples in Odisha. Since I had the practice of detailed itinerary always available for a set of destinations, it was very quick for me to book tickets from Chennai and swiftly execute the plan.
Day-1
Reaching Bhubaneswar and a bad start!
Started to Bhubaneswar by early morning flight (6:20 AM) from Chennai and landed around 8 AM. I had pre-booked my cab through savaari (my usual planner); but this time this flopped the show as the driver dint turn up. Spent 1 hour walking in the airport - getting through few calls to their customer care and ended up with a reimbursement - but I needed a cab!
I got hold of a cab driver on the Ola line at the airport and negotiated a price and was on! I was terribly hungry and the driver took me to a road side eatery by the Ram Mandir - seems to be a very popular place for locals and it did not let me down. Puri and Dalma, Vadai and a chai - the day is set now!
Jajpur - Biraja Devi
The 13th century temple at Jajpur - Biraja Devi mandir is around 105 kms from the airport - 2 hour drive. This temple is one of the 18 Maha Sakthi Peetas and is known as Oddiyana Peetam - navel part of Sati goddess. The Durga goddess is in the form of killing Mahishasura. The temple is also known as Nabi Gaya - one of the 3 Gayas - Sir Gaya (Gaya in Bihar), Padha Gaya (Pithapuram in AP) and Nabi Gaya (in Jajpur). These places are known to do Pind Dhaan.
The temple has lot of space around for parking and small shops. The temple was slightly crowded that being a weekend. Had a great dharshan in 5-10 mins. There is a VIP dharshan, paying Rs.100 and entering a prakaram inward - I did oblige for it and had a great dharshan. No push or pull in VIP area.
After a great dharshan, I came around seeking blessings from other sanctums - Ganesha, 108 Sivalingams and few more, devis. A great feeling and satisfaction post dharshan and came out to start towards another gem of Odisha. The temple timings are 5.30 am - 1.00 pm, and 3.00 pm - 10.00 pm.
Buddhist Diamond Triangle
Ratnagiri - Udayagiri - Lalitgiri form the Diamond triangle of Buddhism in Odisha. These were built during Kalinga dynasty after the war by Ashoka. These are 10-12 kms apart from each other and are primarily ruins - hosting Mahaviharas, sculptures, monasteries, stupas and votive stupas.
Ratnagiri
Ratnagiri is 36 kms from Jajpur, reachable in just more than a hour through village roads. Cuttack is 65 kms from Ratnagiri.
The ruins here consist of Mahavihara, beautiful sculptures, ruins of three monasteries, few stupas, one of them big, and a lot of votive stupas. It took around 25-30 mins to explore the place. There is a museum as well here apart from the ASI site.
Udayagiri
Next comes Udayagiri - 10 kms from Ratnagiri. Here, the place is more isolated than Ratnagiri. One has to walk a bit more here - one end of the site hosts the stupa and the other side is the ruins of monastery. It took around 30 mins to walk around.
Lalitgiri
Lalitgiri is the biggest of the three and the oldest too. This hosts the ruins of four monasteries, one of them surrounded with several votive stupas and being the biggest of the four. The Mahastupa is over a hillock towards the end of the site.
Do visit the Lalitgiri ASI museum as it displays the relic casket and several other sculptures.
There are absolutely no shops or eateries in any of the places and they are desolated. Do carry enough water and snacks with you. There are one or two small vendors selling few items which may not be attractive to buy or satisfy your hunger.
Post a very satisfactory visit of the Diamond triangle, started towards Cuttack. I was terribly hungry and almost nothing to eat anywhere until I crossed Chandikhole. I was planning to visit Chhatia Jagannath temple as well - so we did not stop anywhere between and reached Chhatia. Enroute, a beautiful sunset was a treat to watch!
Chhatia Jagannath Temple
The temple is located 30 kms ahead of Cuttack from Jajpur and 23 kms from Lalitgiri. This temple is resting place of saint Hadidas. The temple is said to be a representation of Kalki avatar of Lord Vishnu. The main idols of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subadhra stand behind each other in different sanctums facing a mirror. The devotees can have dharshan only from the sides or through the mirror. It is said that the idols would turn around at the end of Kali yug and Kalki avatar would start.
No mobiles or camera are allowed inside and can be deposited at a small roadside place for Rs.5.
Post dharshan, had hot samosa and aloo bonda with aloo subji - typical Odisha way of eating and that too at a cheap price - but yummy and filling!
Reaching Cuttack
Around 6:30 PM, reached Cuttack through the crowded narrow streets and reached by hotel - Shri Jagannath Inn. This was a sub-1000 room (non-ac) booked through makemytrip - a very spacious, clean, queen size bed, TV with Tata Sky and clean bathroom with geyser fitting. After check-in, walked around in the market area and had some local snacks ...
After such a long day, a very comfortable stay to hit the bed. I ordered for roti, aloo jeera and curd rice for dinner - such a big portion came in - yeah, the portions of food are massive in Odisha!
Day-2
A lazy morning to start with - watching the BGT - Boxing Day test. The plan was simple - see few places of Cuttack - Museum, Fort and riverbed and start to Bhubaneswar.
I walked around by 8 AM on the cold morning and saw few small road side vendors setup their stalls for breakfast - idlies, samosa, vada, dalma and aloo subji. I had my breakfast - 5 medium sized idlies with aloo sabji for Rs.20! And another mix of several types of vadai/bonda for Rs.20.
Netaji Museum
Cuttack is the birth place of Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose - in 1897. The Janakinath Bhawan, where he was born stands today as his museum. The museum displays photographs, letters, uniforms, artefacts and sequence of events since his childhood, schooling, traveling across India, neighboring and allied countries and eventually building INA and INA's freedom movement. No photography is not allowed inside the museum. I took close to an hour going around at my own pace and cherishing the greater movements.
Chandi Mandir
Next, I visited the Cuttack Maa chandi mandir - a very popular temple for the localites and a place filled with energy. There was no much rush and had a very good dharshan.
Barabati Fort
Barabati Fort stands in Cuttack as a symbol of Somavamshi Dynasty in 14th dynasty. Now, they are just few pieces of ruins as ASI site, while rest of the inside parts of fort are not operating as government office spaces. Hardly few mins is what is required to see around; but a beautiful big park is maintained for kids to spend time with.
I also had the Odisha famous dahi bara with aloo dum. Truly delicious and it was so filling - quite heavy!
Odisha State Maritime Museum
We started towards Bhubaneswar and enroute the driver halted at the Odisha State Maritime Museum as I was visiting many ASI sites and showed interest in history. This place had an entry fee to see the displays of various types of boats used historically, marine trade routes, power games in different era and related.
The place was maintained quite well and I spent time at an aquarium also.
Mahanadi River
The driver took me through the banks of the mighty Mahanadi river - almost 3 kms in breadth, but mostly devoid of water.
Started back to Bhubaneswar and visit the various temples of historic importance. Enroute on the highway, the driver stopped for me to buy famous delicacies of Odisha - Chenna poda. I bought one and everyone in family liked it.
Chausath Yogini Temple
Chausath Yogini Temple is located 20 kms in outskirts of Bhubaneswar at Hirapur. There are only 4 of them in India and one of them is here. The temple hosts the 64 Yoginis - forms of Durga. Yogini practice includes tantrism of different forms from the local tribes. This is a small circular temple, with all idols facing inward each other.
Megheswara Temple
This is an active temple dedicated to Lord Shiva - built in 12th century. The temple has a well sculpted arch and viharas. Beautiful sculptures of Naginis, dancing postures, Yali, elephants are primarily seen on the gopuaram.
Bhaskareswara Temple
A 12th century temple, this is quite different from the other temples. This temple boasts big like a chariot, and is relevant to Asoka's period. Lord Shiva is the main deity here and there are mentions about a Ashoka's pillar erected here in this temple.
Raja Rani Temple
Raja Rani Temple is the one of the finest architecture temples of Bhubaneswar. This temple is 11th century Kalinga dynasty temple. The sandstone temple has amazing sculptures. The temple was earlier called Indreswara Temple and later becoming Raja Rani temple because of the sculptures resembling Khajuraho. There is an minimal entry ticket for this temple - ASI site.
The temple is located 1 km from the very famous Lingaraja Temple.
Parasurameswar Temple
A very notable temple is the Parasuramesvara Temple enroute to Mukteshwar Mahadev temple within the same complex. Being a 7th century temple, this is one of the oldest surviving and active Shiva temples in Bhubaneswar. This temple has intricate carvings.
Mukteshwar Mahadev Temple
This temple is adjacent to the Parasurameswar Temple within the same ASI complex. This temple has multiple small gopurams and very ornamental windows in lattice design, a beautifully ornamented arch in front of the temple. The temple is frequented by many tourists as well as locals. The temple is active Lord Shiva Temple. The complex also hosts a separate temple - Siddheswara Temple - this has a much bigger tower and a mantapa in the front.
Lingaraja Temple
One of the most important and stunning temples in Odisha is the Lingaraj Temple. This temple is very revered and hosts Lord Shiva as the main deity and 100+ small sanctums in a large complex. This temple is considered the pinnacle of Kalinga architecture. Built in the 11th century, is a prime example of the architectural beauty. The temple is mostly crowded and every pilgrim coming to Odisha and those within would visit this temple. No mobile or camera is allowed inside! There are counters close to the temple to deposit your belongings and mobile and enter the temple.
