Kabini Safari - Talakad - Sivanasamudra

Trip members: Karthik and family

Trip date:  11 Jan - 13 Jan 2025

Trip Plan : Chennai - Kabini - Talakad - Sivanasamudra - Chennai

A 3-day road trip from Chennai, mainly, focusing on Kabini Safaris - a first time for my wife and daughter. 

Reaching Vellore overnight

We started 6 PM on 10-Jan from Chennai and reached Vellore by 9 PM - visiting my cousin. Kabini is 530 kms from Chennai and it going to be quite a long drive on single stretch. Hence, we decided to stay in Vellore and use it as a headstart next day - we were destined to reach Kabini stay by 1:30 PM. We had our safari at 3:00 PM. Post reaching Vellore, we had dinner and spent some time chitchatting before sleeping.

Day-1

Getting up around 4 AM, we were ready for the day - had a coffee and by 5:30 AM, we were on the highway towards Bengaluru. The road was mostly empty and the headstart was very helpful to reach Hosur by 8 AM for breakfast. We had breakfast at a local hotel on the highway - Hotel Saravana - one of the plenties by the same name.

There was plenty of road work going on and we managed to hit the Mysuru expressway by 10 AM. We stopped near Maddur for a tea break - had hot Maddur vada, Mangalore buns and tea before cruising on the expressway.

Reaching Kabini

Having visited Kabini earlier, once we get off the Mysuru city, I was aware that there are no good veg restaurants to have lunch. I called up our homestay Rathnaprabha homestay for guidance and they recommended us to have lunch at a small mess like place - Hotel Kabini - after crossing Handpost (this is a prominent junction enroute).

We had meals there - which was just ok, considering it a local hotel. Afterall, lunch was done and now all set to reach our homestay. Rathna Prabha homestay - this is one of the closest homestays you can get to reach the safari ticket counter. The Rathnaprabha farm is around 7 kms from the ticket counter and is hardly a 10-min drive. The place is simply homely and very clean and all basics made available. There are inhouse people (locals) how cook food on request. We missed to let them in advance for lunch. After checkin, we just changed clothes to those suitable for safari and left immediately.

Reaching the Safari counter

At Kabini forest range, there are 3 gates, Veerahosanahalli, Nanachi and Kakanakotte. Kakanakotte is the most famous of the 3 and treated as the very prominent of the gates and also called Antharasanthe side. Nanachi is one on the Kutta side of Nagarhole and Veerahosanahalli is the Nagarhole safari gate arriving from Mysuru - Hunsur route.

We had booked two safaris - one in the evening and one in the morning, but both in the Antharasanthe side.

We reached the counter by 2:30 PM and our prebooked safari tickets on the canter had seats mapped to our names and got 2 window seats for 3 of us. Very happy with the seats, we just waited for the safari to begin. For Kabini safaris, online booking of safari tickets are available - 2 different modes of safari - gypsy and canter would be open 30 days in advance. If you want guaranteed tickets, please book th safari tickets and be by the counter 10-15 mins before the safari.

If you prefer to do in the last minute, not all the time counter tickets would be available. 

Safari - 1

2:55 PM, the safari started. As we entered the forest gate, excitement was high with everyone to sight elephants and big cats. The driver took us through several water bodies and sighted lots of spotted deer to begin with. 

Soon, we cited an elephant with its calf crossing the road in a flash. As we went through, we were fortunate to cite few more elephants in the subsequent waterbodies.

Then came the moment to see a tusker - a rarity at times!

We heard few calls for tiger and soon started following the trail for next one hour, chasing the area in all possible ways. As we moved on further into the trail, we witnessed a bathing elephant in the evening dusk and it was a serene moment to capture!

In search of the stripped cats, we saw more elephants and bumped into a rare species - the Sloth Bears! Wow - they were so shy that they disappeared so deep so quick! But, we did capture a moment of it :-) 

Thus ended our first safari - a gifted to see so many elephants and the sloths! This only made up for more excitement for the morning safari.

We reached the room by 6:30 PM and admiring the Kabini lake view from the terrace.

The dinner at homestay was very elaborate - chapathis, green gram sundal, rice and sambhar, and very tasty. We were quite tired - long drive since early morning and then the safari followed by stomach full meal - ZZZzzzzz!

Safari - 2

Morning around 4:30 AM, we got ready for the safari and reached the counter by 5:15 AM. We were fortunate to get a tea in the nearby shop and readily took the seats!

The dawn silence of the forests are too good and the random bird sounds make it so engaging. We did saw the paw print! But, the elusive cat stayed out of our sights for the whole 3+ hours.

We went on and on and cited lots of birds.

The morning safari wsa very unlike the evening safari, no sign of any animals - not even deers around! It was a disappointing safari as we could not see a single wild animal for 3 hours - infact a added 30 mins by the driver did not help too!

Kabini Lake

Enroute back to the homestay, we drove towards the Kabini lake. There is a narrow road near the hotel "Tasty buds" leading to our homestay, which at the fag ends leads one into the grand Kabini lake. The lake is massive like an ocean and the morning mist made it look heavenly.

We spend around 20 mins at the lake and returned back to the homestay.

Windup Kabini

We quickly refreshed, had our brunch - vegetable rice, white rice, dal, curd, kadala curry and vadai (from Tasty buds) and started our rest of the trip towards Talakad and Sivanasamudra.

Rathna Prabha Farm house

Talakad

We set directions to Talakad - 108 kms, a 2:30 hour journey. Talakad is a desert-like town on banks of Cauvery. A historic site, Talakad once had over 30 temples that today are buried under sand. Now it is a scenic and spiritual pilgrimage centre. Here the eastward flowing Cauvery river changes course and seems magnificently vast as here the sand on its banks spreads over a wide area. Talakad is known for five temples of the "Panchalinga Darshana". The wide area on the river provides a great place for people to take bath and spend time on the river.

Bathing in Cauvery

We also visited Cauvery river point - a broad section of Cauvery river, where there is well organized parking slots (Rs.30/ parking fee), lots of small eateries. Lots of people take bath here and lot of small local boats - charging Rs.30 and Rs.50 per person for small and big trips. We also immersed in water and spent close to 45 minutes.

There was a small eatery for lunch nearby, however, we skipped it thinking we might get better options enroute to Sivanasamudra. We went on newly built highway roads which avoided all towns on the way leading to Sivanasamudra. Madhyaranga Temple was a pitstop for us and we visited the temple - the temple was undergoing Balalayam and we did the dharshan in the small place quickly and came out.

Sivanasamudra

Sivanasamudra is around 35 kms from Talakad. Onwards to Shivanasamudra, small lakes and river crossing hardly had any water and it was a unwelcoming scene.

Bharachukki view point - This is the very famous and the right spot for viewing the waterfalls. There is a fee of Rs.20 as entrance and parking fee. The parking is well laid and has rest rooms built and small shops all around. However, beware of monkeys. 

The view point gives grand view the water falls during the monsoon. The water was very low and was seeping through in the narrow cracks. We saw the waterfalls with a sorry face and moved back to the parking area.

Since we did not have lunch, we spent some time at the shops, having lemon juices, bhel puri and cucumbers.

Stay at Sivanasamudra

Kstdc Hotel Mayura Bharachukki is situated right near the waterfalls - around 800 m from the parking area. We had prebooked our rooms here and checked in around 5 PM. The rooms were very spacious and clean. We ordered some tea and pakodas and relaxed at the hotel.

Day-3

This was more of the drive back. Relaxed start for the day and had breakfast at Mayura - included in the room rent. The food was served on the table - only 2 options - idlies, upma and chowchowbath. Started back towards Chennai.

Enroute had lunch at Sai Sangeeth before Ambur and reached Chennai by 4:30 PM.

Weekender in Odisha - Jajpur - Cuttack - Bhubaneswar

Trip members: Karthik

Trip date:  28 Dec - 29 Dec 2024

Trip Plan : Chennai - Bhubaneswar - Jajpur - Ratnagiri - Udayagiri - Lalitgiri - Chattia - Cuttack - Bhubaneswar - Chennai

A suddenly planned trip to visit ancient Buddhist towns and architectural master pieces of Kalinga dynasty along with one of the 18 Maha Sakthi Peet temples in Odisha. Since I had the practice of detailed itinerary always available for a set of destinations, it was very quick for me to book tickets from Chennai and swiftly execute the plan.

Day-1

Reaching Bhubaneswar and a bad start!

Started to Bhubaneswar by early morning flight (6:20 AM) from Chennai and landed around 8 AM. I had pre-booked my cab through savaari (my usual planner); but this time this flopped the show as the driver dint turn up. Spent 1 hour walking in the airport - getting through few calls to their customer care and ended up with a reimbursement - but I needed a cab!

I got hold of a cab driver on the Ola line at the airport and negotiated a price and was on! I was terribly hungry and the driver took me to a road side eatery by the Ram Mandir - seems to be a very popular place for locals and it did not let me down. Puri and Dalma, Vadai and a chai - the day is set now!

Jajpur - Biraja Devi

The 13th century temple at Jajpur - Biraja Devi mandir is around 105 kms from the airport - 2 hour drive. This temple is one of the 18 Maha Sakthi Peetas and is known as Oddiyana Peetam - navel part of Sati goddess. The Durga goddess is in the form of killing Mahishasura. The temple is also known as Nabi Gaya - one of the 3 Gayas - Sir Gaya (Gaya in Bihar), Padha Gaya (Pithapuram in AP) and Nabi Gaya (in Jajpur). These places are known to do Pind Dhaan.

The temple has lot of space around for parking and small shops. The temple was slightly crowded that being a weekend. Had a great dharshan in 5-10 mins. There is a VIP dharshan, paying Rs.100 and entering a prakaram inward - I did oblige for it and had a great dharshan. No push or pull in VIP area. 

After a great dharshan, I came around seeking blessings from other sanctums - Ganesha, 108 Sivalingams and few more, devis. A great feeling and satisfaction post dharshan and came out to start towards another gem of Odisha. The temple timings are 5.30 am - 1.00 pm, and 3.00 pm - 10.00 pm.

Buddhist Diamond Triangle

Ratnagiri - Udayagiri - Lalitgiri form the Diamond triangle of Buddhism in Odisha. These were built during Kalinga dynasty after the war by Ashoka. These are 10-12 kms apart from each other and are primarily ruins - hosting Mahaviharas, sculptures, monasteries, stupas and votive stupas.

Ratnagiri

Ratnagiri is 36 kms from Jajpur, reachable in just more than a hour through village roads. Cuttack is 65 kms from Ratnagiri.

The ruins here consist of Mahavihara, beautiful sculptures, ruins of three monasteries, few stupas, one of them big, and a lot of votive stupas. It took around 25-30 mins to explore the place. There is a museum as well here apart from the ASI site.

Udayagiri

Next comes Udayagiri - 10 kms from Ratnagiri. Here, the place is more isolated than Ratnagiri. One has to walk a bit more here - one end of the site hosts the stupa and the other side is the ruins of monastery. It took around 30 mins to walk around.

Lalitgiri

Lalitgiri is the biggest of the three and the oldest too. This hosts the ruins of four monasteries, one of them surrounded with several votive stupas and being the biggest of the four. The Mahastupa is over a hillock towards the end of the site. 

Do visit the Lalitgiri ASI museum as it displays the relic casket and several other sculptures.

There are absolutely no shops or eateries in any of the places and they are desolated. Do carry enough water and snacks with you. There are one or two small vendors selling few items which may not be attractive to buy or satisfy your hunger.

Post a very satisfactory visit of the Diamond triangle, started towards Cuttack. I was terribly hungry and almost nothing to eat anywhere until I crossed Chandikhole. I was planning to visit Chhatia Jagannath temple as well - so we did not stop anywhere between and reached Chhatia. Enroute, a beautiful sunset was a treat to watch!

Chhatia Jagannath Temple

The temple is located 30 kms ahead of Cuttack from Jajpur and 23 kms from Lalitgiri. This temple is resting place of saint Hadidas. The temple is said to be a representation of Kalki avatar of Lord Vishnu. The main idols of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subadhra stand behind each other in different sanctums facing a mirror. The devotees can have dharshan only from the sides or through the mirror. It is said that the idols would turn around at the end of Kali yug and Kalki avatar would start.

No mobiles or camera are allowed inside and can be deposited at a small roadside place for Rs.5. 

Post dharshan, had hot samosa and aloo bonda with aloo subji - typical Odisha way of eating and that too at a cheap price - but yummy and filling! 

Reaching Cuttack

Around 6:30 PM, reached Cuttack through the crowded narrow streets and reached by hotel - Shri Jagannath Inn. This was a sub-1000 room (non-ac) booked through makemytrip - a very spacious, clean, queen size bed, TV with Tata Sky and clean bathroom with geyser fitting.  After check-in, walked around in the market area and had some local snacks ...

After such a long day, a very comfortable stay to hit the bed. I ordered for roti, aloo jeera and curd rice for dinner - such a big portion came in - yeah, the portions of food are massive in Odisha! 

Day-2

A lazy morning to start with - watching the BGT - Boxing Day test. The plan was simple - see few places of Cuttack - Museum, Fort and riverbed and start to Bhubaneswar.

I walked around by 8 AM on the cold morning and saw few small road side vendors setup their stalls for breakfast - idlies, samosa, vada, dalma and aloo subji. I had my breakfast - 5 medium sized idlies with aloo sabji for Rs.20! And another mix of several types of vadai/bonda for Rs.20. 

Netaji Museum

Cuttack is the birth place of Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose - in 1897. The Janakinath Bhawan, where he was born stands today as his museum. The museum displays photographs, letters, uniforms, artefacts and sequence of events since his childhood, schooling, traveling across India, neighboring and allied countries and eventually building INA and INA's freedom movement. No photography is not allowed inside the museum. I took close to an hour going around at my own pace and cherishing the greater movements.

Chandi Mandir

Next, I visited the Cuttack Maa chandi mandir - a very popular temple for the localites and a place filled with energy. There was no much rush and had a very good dharshan.

Barabati Fort

Barabati Fort stands in Cuttack as a symbol of Somavamshi Dynasty in 14th dynasty. Now, they are just few pieces of ruins as ASI site, while rest of the inside parts of fort are not operating as government office spaces. Hardly few mins is what is required to see around; but a beautiful big park is maintained for kids to spend time with.

I also had the Odisha famous dahi bara with aloo dum. Truly delicious and it was so filling - quite heavy!

Odisha State Maritime Museum

We started towards Bhubaneswar and enroute the driver halted at the Odisha State Maritime Museum as I was visiting many ASI sites and showed interest in history. This place had an entry fee to see the displays of various types of boats used historically, marine trade routes, power games in different era and related.

The place was maintained quite well and I spent time at an aquarium also.

Mahanadi River

The driver took me through the banks of the mighty Mahanadi river - almost 3 kms in breadth, but mostly devoid of water.

Started back to Bhubaneswar and visit the various temples of historic importance. Enroute on the highway, the driver stopped for me to buy famous delicacies of Odisha - Chenna poda. I bought one and everyone in family liked it.

Chausath Yogini Temple

Chausath Yogini Temple is located 20 kms in outskirts of Bhubaneswar at Hirapur. There are only 4 of them in India and one of them is here. The temple hosts the 64 Yoginis - forms of Durga. Yogini practice includes tantrism of different forms from the local tribes. This is a small circular temple, with all idols facing inward each other.

 

Megheswara Temple

This is an active temple dedicated to Lord Shiva - built in 12th century. The temple has a well sculpted arch and viharas. Beautiful sculptures of Naginis, dancing postures, Yali, elephants are primarily seen on the gopuaram.

Bhaskareswara Temple

A 12th century temple, this is quite different from the other temples. This temple boasts big like a chariot, and is relevant to Asoka's period. Lord Shiva is the main deity here and there are mentions about a Ashoka's pillar erected here in this temple.

Raja Rani Temple

Raja Rani Temple is the one of the finest architecture temples of Bhubaneswar. This temple is 11th century Kalinga dynasty temple. The sandstone temple has amazing sculptures. The temple was earlier called Indreswara Temple and later becoming Raja Rani temple because of the sculptures resembling Khajuraho. There is an minimal entry ticket for this temple - ASI site.

The temple is located 1 km from the very famous Lingaraja Temple.

Parasurameswar Temple

A very notable temple is the Parasuramesvara Temple enroute to Mukteshwar Mahadev temple within the same complex. Being a 7th century temple, this is one of the oldest surviving and active Shiva temples in Bhubaneswar. This temple has intricate carvings.

Mukteshwar Mahadev Temple

This temple is adjacent to the Parasurameswar Temple within the same ASI complex. This temple has multiple small gopurams and very ornamental windows in lattice design, a beautifully ornamented arch in front of the temple. The temple is frequented by many tourists as well as locals. The temple is active Lord Shiva Temple. The complex also hosts a separate temple - Siddheswara Temple - this has a much bigger tower and a mantapa in the front.

Lingaraja Temple

One of the most important and stunning temples in Odisha is the Lingaraj Temple. This temple is very revered and hosts Lord Shiva as the main deity and 100+ small sanctums in a large complex. This temple is considered the pinnacle of Kalinga architecture. Built in the 11th century, is a prime example of the architectural beauty. The temple is mostly crowded and every pilgrim coming to Odisha and those within would visit this temple. No mobile or camera is allowed inside! There are counters close to the temple to deposit your belongings and mobile and enter the temple.

It took me around 45 mins to have a very pleasant dharshan and visit most of the sanctums. If you are lured by any Panda, please ignore and keep walking to do your dharshan and offerings directly inside. Separate parking space is available all around the temple.

It was 4 PM while coming out of Lingaraja Temple and by then, was almost fainting because of hunger. The driver drove me to Hotel Shree Vineeth`s. Had Jeera rice, dhal and gobi masala. I also bought some namkeen snacks and roshagulla at Hotel Vineeth's namkeen shop nearby.

Reached back the airport for my 8 PM flight back to Chennai after visiting all the places I was willing to see with utmost satisfaction even after a mess in the beginning of the trip for the taxi. The driver, Santhosh, who I took at the airport was a nice ally to me and gave good company - especially on day-2. 

To and fro, it was Indigo airlines tickets but, was physically travelling on Corendon airlines - Turkish crew. The flight seats were very much better and leg room than usual Indigo seats!